Jiwaka Province Tribal Dancer In the dense jungles of Papua New Guinea’s Western Highlands, tribal warriors are getting ready for a local sing sing. Tropical birds, cuscus paws, and shells feature heavily in the elaborate costumes.
There are always dilemmas around preserving age-old cultural traditions.
One of the difficulties in safeguarding the unique practices and languages of the many tribal groups in Papua News Guinea is that their ritual dress relies heavily on indigenous birds, plants, and animals.
In times past, the people living in small, relatively isolated clusters in the Papua New Guinea Highlands painted their faces in wild colours and created fantastic headdresses and outfits to intimidate their enemies during the regular deadly skirmishes with neighbouring tribes. Today, these traditional outfits are reserved for the gatherings of dancing and singing known as sing sings. Even so, looking at the wonderfully elaborate and colourful costumes, you’d be forgiven for wondering how any birds or animals on the island survive.
I was travelling with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Toursand a small group of photography enthusiasts. We had arrived in Mount Hagen for the annual Cultural Show, and were attending the newer, smaller Paiya Village Mini Cultural Show as a bit of a “warm up”. Because the Paiya Village Show is small, and is only ticketed by prior arrangement, it allowed us much greater access to the tribal people who had travelled in – some of them, great distances – as they painstakingly created their extravagant costumes.
With the surfeit of colours, at first I didn’t realise that many of the complex feathered headdresses (bilas) I saw included whole birds. And, with the preponderance of shell necklaces, I didn’t even see the tiny, clawed feet of the slow-moving marsupial cuscus forming the top layer of beads! Hopefully, the rest of the animal was put to good use.
Given the threat that many species are under in Papua New Guinea – especially particular parrots and birds of paradise – it is fortunate that the feathers are so expensive. It takes feathers from multiple birds to craft just one of these headdresses, but rather than making new ones for each occasion, many people attempt to deconstruct the creations and to store the feathers until the next use. To assist in this, the Wildlife Conservation Society of Papua New Guinea has created Bilas Protection Kits which they are trying to distribute as broadly as possible. Other people are working on more sustainable ways of sourcing feathers, including the use of introduced species and dying chicken feathers.
Knowing this made me feel better about enjoying the wild and wonderful adornments sported by the people of the Western Highlands and Jiwaka Provinces as they got ready for their sing sing in Paiya Village.
Man in a Feathered Headdress We arrived in Paiya Village early: it was dark in the jungle, but already hot. The ‘ferocious’ intent of the costuming is belied by this elder’s twinkling smile and diminutive stature. Of course, because of my cultural background, I don’t feel threatened by someone whose bird wings create a profile resembling a gremlin, and whose red nose reminds me of a circus clown.
Woman in Red Feathers These people are so comfortable within themselves – and with the camera; I, on the other hand, am distressed by the betel damage to everyone’s teeth!
Long Feathers The headdresses (bilas) feature feathers that are extremelylong.
Woman in Red Feathers
Shake your Tail Feathers! Painstakingly crimped leaves make the tail-feathers of the costume.
Tribal Dancers – Jiwaka Province Wide belts of beaten bark are heavily adorned with more shells, and draped strings in front make a sort of apron.
Jiwaka Shell Necklace We are a long way from the sea, but shells are so central to Papua New Guinean culture that they were once the unit of barter. The name of the contemporary local currency, kina, is a coastal language name for the precious pearl shell that was once used for trade all across the country.
Birds of Paradise The more you look, the more birds you see! Some of the more favoured ones come only from specific regions of the country and are very expensive – which is a good incentive to care for the headdresses carefully.
A Milliner’s Dream Each confection is more wonderful than the last!
Tribal Warrior Fur, feathers, and felt: tribal costumes incorporate the lot!
Headdress (Bila) Extraordinaire! In recent years, headdresses have have been incorporated into more modern practices and meanings, and utilise some non-traditional materials.
Jiwaka Woman You have to be very careful with your posture and movements when wearing your bila.
Preparation In a another area, a different tribal group are getting ready.
Making his Costume Affixing the leaves and feathers is a painstaking process …
Man in a Mirror … and the men are very focussed on their task.
Western Highland Warrior The head coverings that form the base of these headdresses are stitched in the same way as the ubiquitous bilum bags, using something that looks like a tatting hook.
Young Woman in Beads and Shells
Heading into the Corral The dancers we have been watching are ready to head into the main fair grounds and meet up with friends from other tribes and villages.
Old Uncle One of the elders from the village we are in makes his way through the jungle …
The Garden Path … and we head off in search of more dancers.
I hope these tribal groups can preserve their culture – and safeguard their flora and fauna at the same time.
[…] performances. I have previously shared pictures of people from Jiwaka Province (see: Feathers Fur and Facepaint) and from Engan Province (see Big Hats and Small Drums) as they got ready for the […]ReplyCancel
We are a non-for-profit group based in Australia made up of Jiwaka and Hagen women.
We unknowingly used one of your photographs of the Jiwaka women for our event poster. If you require payment, please advise how we can do so and how much? You have captured beautiful pictures of our women.
Thank you Ursula for capturing very beautiful photos of our traditional culture and customs. Happy to see my papa Philip Jika Komni and Philip Gurnga in Geru Peng head dress attire. I’m saving them but if you’ve got any high resolution photos, please do send them. I want to keep them in my personal archive as memories for my kids who will remember their grandfather’s.ReplyCancel
Lake Lugano from Monte Brè Even on a rainy day, the views over Lake Lugano, in Switzerland’s Italian-speaking Ticino region, are well worth the short ride up the funicular railway to the top of Monte Brè.
“Funiculì, Funiculà!”
I find it impossible not to sing the popular Neapolitan tune – at least in my head – whenever I ride a funicular railway. The song was composed in 1880 to commemorate the then-new funicular track up Mount Vesuvius.
Cable railway systems, designed for steep slopes, have been in use since the 1820s and funicular systems – where two railway cars counterbalance each other – emerged in second half of the 19th century. The one we were riding on this particular day: in Lugano, Switzerland, to the peak of Monte Brè (933 m), had been in use since 1908.
The city of Lugano, the cultural and economic hub of Tessin, Switzerland’s Italian-speaking and southernmost canton, sits on the northern shore of glacial Lake Lugano, and at the feet of Monte San Salvatore and Monte Brè.
The city, which borders on Italy, is also the Swiss re-entry point for passengers riding the wonderful Bernina Express rail line that culminates in Tirano. My husband and I had enjoyed several days on the Bernina circuit, travelling with Swiss friends (See: Railway Dreaming; Spirals from Poschiavo; Switzerland for Lunch; and The Crossroads of the Passes). We had arrived in Lugano on the red Bernina Express Bus from Tirano the night before, giving us the day to explore .
We could have stayed longer!
Trenino Turistico Lugano’s little tourist train gave us a practical way of seeing a bit of Lugano and getting to the bottom of the Monte Brè funicular.
Houses on the Hill Ticino is the only canton in Switzerland where Italian is the sole official language.
Monte Brè Funicular The cars on the funicular up Monte Brè are modern and colourful; …
Going Up! … the system itself, however, was commissioned in 1905, and opened fully in 1912.
People in the Carriage The funicular carriages have windows on all sides, allowing passengers plenty of light and a good view out.
Two-Track Funicular System Funiculars use two counterbalanced track-guided rail cars attached to opposite ends of a cable. In this instance, the cars travel up and down a single track with a passing section …
Oncoming Carriage … that is just wide enough to let the trains pass safely.
Looking Down Passengers watch the lake below as it recedes into the distance.
Ristorante Vetta This old restaurant on Monte Brè affords views …
Overlooking Lugano … over Monte San Salvatore, the lake, and the city.
Going Down! After lunch and a walk, we get back on the funicular to ride back down, under roadways, …
Funicular Tunnel … and through tunnels.
Down, Down, Down! We watch as the lake and the city get closer …
Train in the Passing Lane … and as the oncoming carriage rises to meet us.
Almost Abstract: Faces on the Tourist Train Once back at the bottom of the mountain, we re-board the tourist train and complete the city circuit.
Lake Lugano Foreshore In the city centre, we walk along the lake …
Lake Lugano … enjoying gelato, views, …
Carlo Battaglini (1812 – 1888) Mayor of Lugano … and some of the very modern sculptures in the Parco Civico.
The Belvedere Sculpture Garden
La Catena – The Chain Swiss painter, sculptor, and graphic designer Piero Travaglini was a proponent of Swiss Pop Art.
Classic Buildings In other parts of the city, the more classic styles prevail.
Luxury Stores Not far away, on Via Nassa, international name brands …
Bucherer Swiss Luxury Watches … vie with Swiss precision, …
Bicycle outside Tabacchi Two Lions … and healthy bicycles contrast with tobacco products.
Outdoor Fruit Stand I love the prevalence of colourful, fresh fruit in Europe!
Cattedrale di San Lorenzo One of our last city sights, as we climbed the hill to the railway station, was a glimpse of Lugano’s Roman Catholic Cathedral, rebuilt in the late 15th century. (iPhone5)
All too soon, we had to retrieve our bags and make our way up to the train station, leaving the city behind. We had an afternoon train to catch, and it would take us back to our starting point of Rapperswil-Jona, on Lake Zurich on the other side of the country.
Fortunately, it is a small country, so we were not too late getting home! But it is certainly rich in varied natural, architectural, and cultural sights.
Storied Walls The Litany of Ra is among the Ancient Egyptian funerary texts of the New Kingdom written on the inside of the tomb of Rameses IV. Can you imagine what it must have been like when they discovered the Rosetta Stone in 1799 and were finally able to decipher the copious notes inscribed on the walls and ceilings of this magnificent structure?
Time lost all meaning for me in Egypt.
The 63 tombs in the Valley of the Kings might indeed be over a thousand years younger than the magnificent Pyramids of the Old Kingdoms at Giza (see: Stories in Ancient Stone), but even the graffiti defacing them is older than the buildings I grew up around!
The Theban rulers of the Eighteenth Dynasty – spanning the period from 1549/1550 to 1292 BC – mark the start of the New Kingdom of Egypt, an era in which Ancient Egypt arrived at the peak of its power.
The Valley of the Kings was used for royal and noble burials from approximately 1539 BC to 1075 BC, and contains the tombs of pharaohs, preeminent nobles, and the wives and children of both nobles and pharaohs.
Today, to help protect the tombs from the impact of hot, sweaty bodies, the more important ones are open on a rotation system.
The first tomb I visited was the tomb of Ramesses (Rameses or Ramses) IV, the third pharaoh of the Twentieth Dynasty of the New Kingdom of Ancient Egypt. This relatively simple tomb was intended to be much larger, but was cut short when he died (1145 or 1149 BC) about six and a half years into his reign.
The chamber has been open since antiquity, and is believed to have been used as a dwelling by Coptic monks. European visitors described it in the early 1700s, and many 18th- and 19th-century visitors even used it as a hotel. As a consequences, the tomb is noted for having “the second-highest number of ancient graffiti within it”: it contains markings left by Ancient Greek and Roman visitors, depictions of Coptic saints and crosses, and more modern signatures.
Of course, the tombs were (with the exception of that of Tut Ankh Amun) looted by ancient grave robbers. I am not alone, however, in thinking that thereal treasure is on the walls.
What was extraordinary to me was the vibrancy of the colours and the integrity of the bas-relief of the remaining hieroglyphics and paintings. The quality of the ancient workmanship is just stunning!
Over 3000 years ago, plasterers smoothed the quarried walls with muna, a plaster made from clay, quartz, limestone and crushed straw. This was then coated with thin layers of clay and limestone and whitened with a layer of diluted gypsum. Draftsman then sketched out the designs, as decided by the high priests and the pharaoh. Once any corrections were noted, sculptors would carve the bas-relief, which was then painted in the six basic colours (each with symbolic ritual meaning) made from mineral compounds. A layer of varnish or resin was then applied as a protective coating, and this, along with Egypt’s dry climate has helped protected the paintings.
Join me in the Tomb of Ramses IV!
Porter Half the fun of exploration is getting there. We travelled to Luxor on the ‘luxury’ overnight train from Cairo, complete with porters, microwave meals, and tiny sleeping compartments.
View from the Bus From the Luxor train station, it was about a one-hour bus trip across and along the Nile to the Valley of the Kings.
The Colossi of Memnon Our first stop was west of Luxor, where twin colossi depicting Pharaoh Amenhotep III, who ruled (1386-1353 BC) during the 18th Dynasty, flank the entrance to what was once his mortuary temple.
Colossus of Memnon Following an earthquake in 27 BC, one of the colossus started to ‘sing’ at dawn. Greco-Roman tourists renamed the statue Memnon for the eerie wail it made – which reminded them of the mortal son of Eos crying to his mother every morning.
Balloon over Luxor Meanwhile, more modern tourists have the opportunity to ride high over the valley.
Howard Carter House British archaeologist and Egyptologist Howard Carter (1874-1939) became world-famous after discovering the intact tomb of Tut Ankh Amun. He became a popular public speaker, but died without receiving any British honours for his works.
Relief Map The visitor centre to the Valley of the Kings contains an impressive large relief model of the layout of the tombs.
Shuttle into the Valley The valley is extensive, with an inhospitable climate – blistering hot days and freezing cold evenings – that made it unsuitable for people to live and thrive.
Shuttle Driver The shuttles are a welcome help to ferry tourists towards the tomb entries.
Walid and the Postcards Our guide (who can’t enter the tombs with us) uses postcards to explain the illustrations inside K2.
Hieroglyphics and Graffiti Ancient funerary texts and netherworld books: the Litany of Ra, the Book of Caverns, the Book of the Dead, the Book of Amduat, and the Book of the Heavens, line the walls of the tomb.
Painted Corners The bits of plaster that have been rubbed off over time only highlight how well most of the work has lasted.
Colours and Textures The colours – after all this time – are eye-poppingly bright.
Into the Afterlife The texts inside the tomb helped the deceased find his way.
Illustrations
More Hieroglyphics – More Graffiti
Corridor into the Tomb A rail at the end of the corridor keeps us out of the burial chamber of Ramesses IV. There are faded stars overhead.
Birds On my way out, I paused to admire more hieroglyphs – and more graffiti.
Exit – Entry Back outside, even at eight in the morning, the heat and brightness are overwhelming …
Alone with his Phone … and we are plunged back in the 21st century.
From 1149 BC to AD 2019 in the blink of an eye! As I said, Egypt renders the passage of time and the depth of history unfathomable.
I just hope Rameses got where he was meant to be going …
[…] We know all this because the texts describing the processes of mummification, the magic spells to protect the ‘deceased’ on their journey, and the rituals and protocols required of them and the living mourners, were all painstakingly rendered on the walls of the tombs of the most affluent and most revered of the Ancient Egyptians: the Pharaohs (see: The Writing on the Walls). […]ReplyCancel
[…] FactoryAfter a hot morning in the tombs of the Valley of the Kings (see: The Writing on the Walls and Take me to the Afterlife), a stop in an air-conditioned alabaster factory was a welcome […]ReplyCancel
Red Rocks and Emerald Waters These are the colours of the Far South Coast of New South Wales, Australia – or at least they are when there are not fires raging across the land, filling the skies with smoke.
Once upon a time, our waters were sapphire blue, emerald green, and foaming diamond white. Once upon a time, our sands were pristine shades of white and yellow. Once upon a time, we could walk among the she-oaks, the wattle, the Banksia, and the eucalypts.
Once upon a time … before our spectacular conflagrations razed communities, turned the air brown and the sun red, and coated our beaches in ash … before we made international headlines with the apocalyptic destruction of swathes of bushland by firestorms which chewed up animal habitats and pushed species to the brink of extinction.
We will be a long time counting costs and trying to recover.
To take a break from the smoke-filled skies and to cheer myself up, I’m visiting photos I’ve taken in the past: on two walks in the Bournda National Park. This 2,655-hectare (6,560-acre) reserve boasts a magnificent coastline and three bodies of water: a fresh lake, a salt lake, and a brackish lagoon. It is just a short drive north of me, but I’ve only ever visited when my walking-group organises something along sections of the tracks (e.g.: Kangarutha Track).
So far this year, this particular park has been spared direct bush-fire damage, but like others in the region, it is currently closed to all visitors because of the risks.
But, once upon a time, we walked there, and enjoyed it immensely.
Checking the Map I love the NPA bushwalking program! It allows me to be rather lazy: someone else has done the planning and is carrying safety- and first-aide equipment. (iPhone5)
Guinea Flower – Hibbertia Obtusifolia Walking with a group can be slow, but it allows stops to appreciate small sightings along the track.
Guinea Flower – Hibbertia Obtusifolia There is a wealth of knowledge and interests within the group of walkers: sometimes people even know the names of things!
White Sands The white sands and rocks here are so beautiful that they were once quarried nearby.
White Sands – Green Trees The pale sands provide an attractive foil for the trees that cling to the windy cliff top.
Waves in the Inlet The waters here have worked their way into gaps and crevices, carving inlets into the cliffs.
Lunch on White Rock White Rock is the half-way mark if you are walking the whole Kangarutha Track – as we did on a different visit to the park (see: Kangarutha Track). On this occasion, however, we were walking out-and-back to one of the several access spots, making White Rock our end-point.
On the Rocks There are great views from White Rock: including whales off shore, raptors overhead, and roiling waters below.
Almost Abstract: Grass atop White Rock
Grass in the Crevices Colours and patterns are all around as hardy grasses cling to inhospitable grounds.
Burned Out Car This is the land that fire built: natural and man-made fire; even in a good season, there are reminders everywhere.
Trail Sign Much of the Kangarutha Track is steep, uneven, and close to cliffs – giving it a difficulty rating of 3-4. The access points, however, are graded fire trails which are a pleasure to stroll (Phone5).
Looking towards Bournda Island The Sandy Creek Loop Track further south in the park takes in a completely different environment!
Photographer Overlooking Sandy Creek Mangroves make for tidal filters between the Pacific Ocean, Bournda Lagoon, and Sandy Creek.
Walking through the Tea-Trees Apparently, Bournda means ‘place of tea tree and kangaroos’: we spent much of our walk lacing in and out of Myrtaceae – commonly known as paperbarks, honey-myrtles, or tea-trees.
Sandy Creek Following the six kilometre loop up and down over rough terrain, we are regularly rewarded with views of Sandy Creek.
Almost Abstract : Sandy Creek The crystal clear waters of the creek are like an impressionist painting.
Sandy Creek
Pacific through the Trees Looping around Bournda Lagoon, we once again get views over the Pacific, …
Sapphire Waters … and over the beautiful curve of beach stretching back to the little town of Pambula.
Surfer on the Beach
Red Rocks Iron oxide contributes to our wonderful red rocks; the brilliant blue waters give the Sapphire Coast its name.
Beach Walk The last stretch of the walk takes us across the beach, straight into the early afternoon sun, and back to our cars.
Looking at the pictures of these walks makes me realise how much cabin-fever I am feeling. I haven’t seen the sun without its red smoke-filter in weeks, and the ebb and flow of ash and smoke in the air has made exercise difficult.
I can only hope that the powers-that-be will take better care of our landscape once these fires finally loosen their grip.
I can’t wait to get our parks back!
Happy Walking.
Photos: Kangarutha Track 21September2014; Sandy Creek Loop Track 16September2018
Buddha in a Niche There is something calming about a Buddha image – even when one is surrounded by earthquake ruins and at risk of being caught in a deluge!
Swayambhunath, also known as the Monkey Temple, is one of the most sacred religious sites in Kathmandu and is one of the seven monuments that contribute cultural heritage to the UNESCO-listed Kathmandu Valley.
This stupa is among the oldest religious sites in Nepal, dating back to about the beginning of the 5th century CE. For Buddhist Newars, it is the most sacred religious site in Kathmandu, but it is revered and regarded as a pilgrimage destination by Hindus and other Buddhists alike.
Although the Swayambunath complex suffered some damage in the April 2015 Nepal Earthquake, with outlying buildings crumbling, the eyes of the Buddha painted on the gilded spire atop the giant white stupa kept its watch – without harm – over the valley.
The last time I was there – under the tutelage of travel photographer Gavin Gough and photojournalist Jack Kurtz – it rained: even the monkeys had run for cover! The ancient, rambling grounds were wet and slippery; the scenery was punctuated by colourful raincoats and umbrellas; the sky alternated dark clouds with luminous pockets of light; and the city below was wrapped in a rainbow.
Join me at one of Nepal’s most important temples.
Buddha in the Pond A bronze Bodhisattva- or Buddha-statue in the centre of the World Peace Pond welcomes us to Swayambhu Temple.
Prayer Flags and a Bell In Hinduism and Buddhism, devotees ring bells at the entries of temples to inform the deity of their arrival. The sound of the bell is also said to help focus one’s mind in readiness for prayer or reflection.
Bell and Stupa The ground is wet and the sky is full of prayer flags and rain.
Green Buddha in an Alcove Every niche contains an icon, …
Stupa and Flags … and everywhere, there are eyes watching!
Flags at the Top of the Stairs The stairs to the upper level are swathed in prayer flags.
“Work in Progress” Although Swayambhunath suffered less damage in the April 2015 earthquake than many other sites, there are still repairs to be made.
Woman Selling Candles But, devotion and work continue among the rubble.
Gold Buddha in Red
Prayer Wheels Traditionally, Buddhist prayer wheels are spun clockwise to symbolise the “turning the wheel of Dharma” and to release the mantra Om Mani Padme Hum, which is written in Newari (Nepali) script on the outside of the cylinder.
Shiny Shrines The rain washes the surfaces clean …
Central Stupa … and the spire of the stupa rises into the clouds.
Shrines A variety of shrines and temples dot the upper layer …
Bodhisattva amid the Sales … and Buddhas, Bodisattvas, and souvenir sellers are tucked into every space.
Candles in a Shrine
Ornate Surfaces Every surface is carved and decorated.
Golden Buddha behind a Screen I love the textures and patterns all around the grounds.
Rainbow over Kathmandu Swayambhunath sits atop a hill in the Kathmandu Valley, affording views back over the sprawling city.
Marigolds and Wrought Iron Buddhism is heavily influenced by Indian Hinduism and it is common to see marigolds at temples. Of course, these “Mary’s Gold” flowers also feature in early Christianity.
Dome of the Stupa The large white dome of the stupa represents the entire world, …
Prayer Wheels …and Hindu and Buddhist faithful spin the prayer wheels as they perform their clockwise circumambulations of the stupa.
Golden Top of the Stupa The eyes of Buddha, looking in all four directions, represent wisdom and compassion.
These images calm me, as I wait for a new conflagration half way across the world. If the Nepali can worship so serenely in the aftermath of deadly earthquake, surely I can hold firm in the face of Antipodean fires!
Oṃ maṇi padme hūṃ …
In Nepal, like other Tibetan Buddhist countries, this is the most ubiquitous mantra and an ever-present feature of the landscape. I found myself repeating it while I was there – and I felt better.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
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I hope these tribal groups can preserve their culture – and safeguard their flora and fauna at the same time.
I just hope Rameses got where he was meant to be going …
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[…] performances. I have previously shared pictures of people from Jiwaka Province (see: Feathers Fur and Facepaint) and from Engan Province (see Big Hats and Small Drums) as they got ready for the […]
Hi Ursula,
We are a non-for-profit group based in Australia made up of Jiwaka and Hagen women.
We unknowingly used one of your photographs of the Jiwaka women for our event poster. If you require payment, please advise how we can do so and how much? You have captured beautiful pictures of our women.
Kind regards
PNGWASEQ TEAM
Hi!
I have emailed you.
Cheers, Ursula
Thank you Ursula for capturing very beautiful photos of our traditional culture and customs. Happy to see my papa Philip Jika Komni and Philip Gurnga in Geru Peng head dress attire. I’m saving them but if you’ve got any high resolution photos, please do send them. I want to keep them in my personal archive as memories for my kids who will remember their grandfather’s.
Thanks for your visit Tony! I’m glad you like the pictures. I’ve emailed you.
Cheers!
Ursula