.jpg) Mirror, Mirror!
High in the steamy, mountainous jungles of Papua New Guinea, a Western Highland tribal warrior gets ready for a local sing-sing – a festival of culture and dance. I don’t know how many of Papua New Guinea’s more than 7000 different cultural groups live in the wide, fertile valleys and surrounding mountainous jungles of the Highlands in the country’s interior, but there are a lot!
The Highlands were first populated about 50,000 years ago by nomadic foragers. By 10,000 years ago, people were planting crops and settling into villages. Those tribal groups developed their own unique languages, beliefs, and customs, as they remained separated from their neighbours by the rugged terrain and a culture of inter-tribal warfare and animosity. They had no contact with Europeans until the 1930s, when explorers came into the area looking for gold. In spite of those, and later, intrusions by European mining and logging companies, and the presence of Australian and New Zealand soldiers during World War II as they (with the help of the Papuans) stopped the advance of Japanese troops south towards Port Moresby, life here has changed little. Traditional practices and beliefs remain strong.
The easiest way for a visitor to appreciate some of this incredible cultural diversity is to attend a sing-sing: a peaceful gathering of tribes or villages that showcases their distinctive dances and traditions. I was in Papua New Guinea with a small but intrepid group of photography enthusiasts and photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours. We were attending the Paiya Village Mini Cultural Show, which takes place annually before the better-known and larger Mount Hagen Show.
We arrived at Paiya Village early, allowing us to appreciate how long the extensive preparations take! I was able to spend time with a number of tribal groups as they painted their faces and crafted their costumes for the afternoon’s performances. I have previously shared pictures of people from Jiwaka Province (see: Feathers Fur and Facepaint) and from Engan Province (see Big Hats and Small Drums) as they got ready for the show.
Now, it was time to focus on some of the dancers from the Western Highlands Province, which is where Paya Village is located, and the well-known and popular Huli Wigmen, who had travelled in from Hela Province many miles away. Originally, all these vibrantly painted faces and elaborate costumes were meant to instil fear in ones opponents during battle, but the process of getting ready also served as a group bonding exercise, and today, the ritual is a means of passing on traditions and stories.
Join me in the jungle for some environmental portraits of these men in what was traditionally war-paint, and is now reserved for sing-sings.
.jpg) Huli Wigman
Even before they apply their distinctive red-and-yellow facepaint, the Huli Wigman of the Hela Province in the Southern Highlands stand out. .jpg) Fixing the Wig
Their extraordinary structured wig-hats are made from their own hair. The young men go to a secretive Huli Wig School to learn the magic and special diet required to grow enough hair to craft the wigs.  Helping Each Other
The men wear kina shells around their necks with a kokomo (hornbill) beak on the back. The headdresses are adorned with precious parrot and bird of paradise feathers. Western Highlands Man
Every tribal group has their own face-paint style. It takes time and concentration to achieve the final result with small hand-held mirrors. Here, a vehicle rear-view mirror gets a second life. Smoke Break
The Western Highland headdress starts with a stitched bilum-bag form that is padded out before being decotated with feathers, fur, vegetation, and shells. String Ties and Kina Shells
The whole process is fascinating to watch. Face in a Shard of Glass
All along the jungle track, the men are applying their ritual colours. That distorted cheek on the woman in the background is a wad of ever-present betel nut chew. Another Smoke Break
Tobacco is also ubiquitous: mostly long-leaf and self-rolled. This stylish looking cigarette is actually rolled in carefully cut newspaper. Eye in the Mirror
If ever I come back to this area, I will bring a bag full of hand-held mirrors! Makeup in the Mirror Arm Band
Full costumes incorporate a lot of fresh local greenery. Applying Face Paint
A little way down the jungle track, another group of Huli Wigmen are at various stages of of readiness – each with his own small looking glass. White Face Paint Yellow Paint and Eye Contact
The second colour layer is the yellow face paint. Traditionally, the men used ambua, a bright yellow sacred clay. Today, store-bought acrylic paints are more often substituted. Young Wig-Boy
Only young, virgin males from Hela Province can go to wig school. They usually enter at 14 to 15 years of age, and don’t leave until they graduate after at least 18 months. If they want a second (or third) wig, they re-enroll. This young lad’s hair has a way to go before it will be woven into a headdress. Ceremonial Wig
The wigs are wonderful concoctions! Most men own more than one, but all the hair has to be grown before they get married. Ceremonial wigs are meant to look like the silhouette of a bird with its wings stretched out. Getting Ready
Looking at the bird parts and feathers that go into these headdresses is rather alarming, but the Huli have a reverence for birds, and the feathers are carefully looked after from one year to the next. Hornbill Beak and Pig Tusks Young Western Highlander
Not everyone is performing. A local lad is as fascinated by the Wigmen as I am. Yellow Paint on the Wigman
Paint brushes are made from twigs with one end chewed to make them pliable. Portrait of a Wigman in the Making
The young lad didn’t have to do his own paint; one of the elders was looking after him. Triangle Eyes
Like the wig decoration, the face paint has minor variations on a general theme. Concentration
I’m impressed by the men’s sustained concentration, … Tourists
… especially considering the number of phones and cameras in their faces! Huli Wigmen Dancing
Finally it all comes together! The Wigman ‘dance’ involves a singing-chant while the men jump up and down as if they were on invisible pogo sticks. Western Highland Men Dancing
The Western Highland men, with their headresses topped with tall feathers, approach with a yodeling march. It is easy to imagine how terrifying either of these groups would be be, coming at you through the jungle!
I’m very glad that inter-tribal disputes – although far from ended – are greatly reduced these days. Sing-sings give the tribes a chance to maintain and show off aspects of their culture without the bloodshed.
And, they give us the chance to enjoy them as well.
Until next time,
Safe Travels!
Photos: 18August2017
Posted in environmental portrait,Papua New Guinea,TravelTags: environmental portrait,environmental portraits,Paiya Village,Papua New Guinea,people,Photo Blog,PNG,sing sing,travel,Travel Blog,tribal life,Ursula Wall,Western Highlands Province
Nori Aoki at Bat for the Seattle Mariners
The ‘American Dream‘ and baseball’s ‘Field of Dreams’ are tightly interwoven, in myth and in reality. In a nation built on immigrants, Norichika Aoki (playing here for the Seattle Mariners) is one of over 25% of pro-baseball players who were born outside the USA. (06June2016) “Take me out to the ball game,
Take me out with the crowd;
Buy me some peanuts and Cracker Jack,
I don’t care if I never get back.
Let me root, root, root for the home team,
If they don’t win, it’s a shame.
For it’s one, two, three strikes, you’re out,
At the old ball game.”
There can’t be a North American child who doesn’t know that chorus from the 1908 Tin Pan Alley song Take Me Out to the Ball Game. A central element in countless television shows and popular movies – including the eponymous 1949 musical starring Gene Kelly and Frank Sinatra, the song has been recorded by artists as diverse as Carly Simon, Bing Crosbie, and Dr John.
This chorus is also a feature at the baseball games for which it was written. What I didn’t know when I attended my first professional game, however, was that you have to wait for the middle of the seventh inning before you hear it!
This year, there is no music blaring from the loudspeakers. It is, as they say in baseball, a whole new ball game. The fields and ballparks are quiet and the bleachers are empty. Around the world, various sports have experimented with playing to empty stadiums. Here in Australia, the major football and rugby codes are struggling with social distancing regulations in attempts to get games up and running again. In the United States, it is spring, which is normally the start of the baseball season. But in March, in response to the Covid-19 pandemic, Major League Baseball announced that the season would be postponed “indefinitely”.
That has to hurt! Baseball has been called the National Pastime and the Heartbeat of America. In 1954, French-American historian and social commentator Jacques Barzun wrote: “Whoever wants to know the heart and mind of America had better learn baseball.”
Baseball is so embedded in the American psyche that its idioms are an everyday part of the language: to hit a home run or bat a thousand; to go to bat for someone or to touch base with them; to play hardball or make a ball park figure estimate; to have two strikes against you or to strike out completely; to step up to the plate or swing for the fences; to play ball, throw a curve ball, or take a rain check; to be on the ball, off base, out in left field, or out of one’s league, to list just a few.
Unlike me, my husband spent most of his early years in the US and grew up to be a keen fan of basketball and baseball. No matter what time-zone he was living or working in, he would find March Madness basketball tournaments on television. He called the Seattle Mariners his “home team” in baseball, and followed their games – by phone and wifi where necessary – from one end of the season to the other. Twice we were able to co-ordinate short travel-stops in Seattle when the Mariners had home games (both times against the Cleveland Indians), so, off we went to the home field.
I don’t know enough about baseball to find the game all that interesting, so I took my cameras with me – otherwise those long intervals during which nothing seems to happen would have driven me to distraction!
Join me at the ball game.
Safeco Left Field
We were lucky enough to have beautiful weather for our excursions – via public transport and foot – into the ball park. (29May2015) Womens PGA Players
Before the game starts, all sorts of things happen on the field. One year we watched pro golfers returning baseballs! (06June2016) Miller and Seager Warming Up
The home team does their warm-up routine on the field. (29May2015) Stretches
Some of the players get the trainers to help with their pre-game warm ups. (06June2016) T-Shirt Bearers
Security staff are visbly present, and giving out gift-packs. (06June2016) Meeting the Fans
Many of the players meet fans at the fence … (29May2015) Nelson Cruz
… or just smile at the audience from the field. Another foreign-born player, Dominican-American Nelson Cruz is a six-time MLB All-Star who spent four years with the Mariners. (06June2016) Local School Choir
Once the National Anthem has been sung, the first pitch is not far away. (29May2015) Meeting Team Mates
Robinson Canó, currently with the New York Mets, is another Dominican-born player who was four years on the Seattle Mariners line-up. He was named for Jackie Robinson, the civil rights hero and legendary ball player who broke the baseball colour barrier in 1947. (29May2015) Walker Pitching
Seattle’s starting pitcher Taijuan Walker winds up and lets a ball fly. (29May2015) Kipnis at Bat
The first batter for the Cleveland Indians was Jason Kipnis. To amuse myself, I tried to catch the balls in flight; you can just see this one streaking towards his bat. (29May2015) Jason Kipnis at Bat
I’m sure it was pure coincidence that Seattle was once again playing against Cleveland when we attended our next game over a year later! (06June2016) Confab
A lot of discussion seems to take place between innings – and even between plays. Center-fielder Austin Jackson is on first base; coach Chris Woodward is there to give advice. Who knew you needed help to decide whether or not to run? (29May2015) Nelson Cruz at Bat
When the batters connect with the ball, you can hear it – and see it. (06June2016) Fresh Lemonade
Half the fun of the game is watching the vendors spruiking their wares. (06June2016) Popcorn, Peanuts, and Cracker Jacks!
Cracker Jacks were a real treat when I was a kid – one I didn’t get very often. Today, many ball parks sell only popcorn because of the risks to people with peanut alergies. (06June2016) Nelson Cruz at Bat
Baseball fans love their statistics: 2015 was possibly the best season of Cruz’s career. (29May2015) Cruz on the Run
By the end of the season, he had a hitting average of .302, with a career-high of 44 home runs and 93 RBIs. (29May2015) Cruz Heading for Base
Fortunately, Cruz made it to base before the catcher got that ball! (29May2015) Young Fan
Baseball is a family affair, and many of the fans are very young. (29May2015) Yes we Canó!
The big screens gee-up the crowd. The home team is losing and Robinson Canó is the last hope. (06June2016) Canó at Bat
The ball comes in… he hits it, but it wasn’t enough: the game was lost by two runs. (06June2016) Evening Skies
As the games draw to a close, the skies over Seattle darken. (29May2015) Farewelling Teammates
The Mariners won this game, and happily congratulated each other after the final runs. (29May2015) Friday Fireworks
We had the added bonus of enjoying the fireworks display … Safeco in Lights
… that started as soon as it was dark enough. We won one and we lost one. Not bad, I guess!
Thanks to the coronavirus pandemic, the lights over Safeco Field – now called T-Mobile Park following the expiry of the original naming deal – are currently off and the Seattle Mariners have been told to enter off-season mode.
This year’s spring training never happened. Once the season opening is announced, it will take time for players to recondition. Even then, the competition won’t feel the same without the audience.
Like I said, it’s a whole new ball game.
Posted in Sport,Travel,USATags: Ball Game,baseball,environmental portrait,Photo Blog,Safeco Park,Seattle,sport,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,USA
A Nepali Spice Palette
The colours and flavours of Nepali food are wonderful, and they start with a perfectly balanced spice mix. This masala dani (spice box) contains some of the more commonly used flavours: salt, turmeric, red chilli powder, cumin powder, fenugreek seeds, coriander powder, and ground carom seeds. One of the great joys of travel is the food.
The colours, smells, and tastes of local cuisine are so evocative of the place. When you have the opportunity to break bread with the locals, there is a warm friendliness that lives in your memories long after the trip has finished.
I love taking part in cooking classes when I travel. It is not so much that I will replicate the recipes at home; it is more that learning how the local food is prepared enriches the taste experience, and also gives me a glimpse into people’s lives.
The first meal I ever ate in Nepal was at a restaurant in Thamel called – believe it or not – the Kathmandu Kitchen. I guess every city has one – even Kathmandu! Since that first trip, I’ve made a bee-line to momos any time they are available. I just love Nepali food.
On my most recent trip to Nepal, I was especially lucky.
I was there – in part – to participate in a workshop with travel photographer Gavin Gough and photojournalist Jack Kurtz. When we weren’t exploring various outdoor locations (e.g: A Thousand Steps, Boudhanath Stupa, Bhaktapur Ruins, and Swayambhunath, etc.), we were grouped in an airy Airbnb home in Thamel and enjoying meals cooked by our host Indira in a genuine Kathmandu kitchen.
Indira has the deftest hand with Nepali spices that you could wish for, and a love of cooking that is infectious. We persuaded her to give us a ‘cooking lesson’. Of course, when you are dealing with a group of enthusiastic photographers, that involves a lot more watching and clicking than it does dicing and chopping! But we did help a bit – and we definitely enjoyed the final products.
Join me for a typical Nepali meal.
Fresh Produce
Great meals start with the best ingredients. Some of this is from the market; some is straight out of the garden. Grated Carrot
Although this is a modern household, complete with solar electricity, many of the kitchen tasks are done by hand. It takes time and effort to grate the kilos of carrots that will go into our carrot pudding desert. Indira and the Moka Pot
An army marches on its stomach, and Indira knows that cooks and kitchen-hands live on coffee. Maas Ko Daal
Lentils (dal) are a key feature in Nepali cuisine, and there are as many ways of making dahl as there are ways to spell it! Dahl Bhat (lentils with rice), made with yellow or red lentils, is a staple in the country, but black gram beans (maas ko daal) are another favourite. These lentils are cooked in an iron pot, and the herbs and spices are fried in ghee separately and added last. Nepali Saag – Curried Greens
Saag (greens: spinach, chard, kale, or mustard) are stir-fried with garlic, cumin seeds, salt, pepper, and curry powder for a simple and nutritious side dish. Pots on the Stove Slicing Beans
Indira slices her beans lengthwise opposite the vein so that the flavours (fenugreek, Himalayan chives, turmeric, chopped garlic, chili powder, asafoetida, and salt) penetrate. Whisking the Daal
Once the lentils are soft, they are lightly whisked. Painting Flavour
Meanwhile, in a fresh pot of heated oil, more spices are being gently fried. Chopping Garlic
You can never have too much garlic! Chopping Okra
Another side dish on the menu is tare ko ramtoriya – pan-fried okra. Salting the Okra
Salt is added to the okra that is cooking with red onions, black cumin, green chilies, turmeric and chili powder. Chicken in a Pot
Chicken pieces are stewed in preparation for making curry. Cutting Potatoes
Small potatoes have been peeled, boiled and cooled. Now, they are cut in half … Alu Ko Achar – Potato Pickle
… and coated in mustard oil with fenugreek, Himalayan chives, asafetida (Hing), turmeric, and chili powder. They are then tossed in final dressing of ginger paste, black cumin seeds, lemon juice and coriander. Ginger and Garlic in a Pan
More herbs and spices are toasted; there is always something fragrant warming up. Cooking Carrot
The grated carrot (remember the carrot?) is added to a pot of melted ghee with bay leaves. After steaming, milk is added and the mixture is covered and cooked over low heat until the color comes back… Nepalese milk cream (which is a lot like mascarpone) is then stirred in, and the mixture cooks for another hour before sugar (and nuts if you like) is added. Delicious! Mixing Chilli Spice
Meanwhile, a deadly amount of chillies are added to another fried spice mix … Mixing Chilli Spice
… and the whole lot is blended to dress the chicken, which is now falling off the bone. “Many Hands”
They say that: “Many hands make light work.” In this case, however, most of the hands are observing! That is the carrot-milk pudding on the back burner. Baingan Pakoras
The eggplant fritters – coated in chickpea batter – were a dream! They didn’t all make it to the dinner table. The Table
Finally! Time to eat. Our meal was, of course, wonderful!
So that we could try to replicate some of the unique flavours at home, a couple of my fellow travellers went to the markets with Indira to buy a few of the herbs and spices that were less familiar to us. I was pretty sure that Australian Quarantine would confiscate my large plastic packets of herbs and toasted seeds, but they just laughed.
Thanks to Covid-19, the world is currently at a standstill, and I’m really missing travel. Not as much as people in the hospitality industry in tourism-dependent locations like Nepal are missing incoming visitors, to be sure, so I do consider myself very lucky.
But, I do miss travel. Going through old pictures cheers me up, and so too does getting into my spice cupboard, pulling out the mustard oil, the Himalayan chives, and the asafetida – and cooking up something exotic.
Bon Appétit
Pictures: 17March2017
Posted in Food,Nepal,TravelTags: cooking,food,Kathmandu,Kitchen,Nepal,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Young Hamar Woman
The Hamar women of Ethiopia’s Omo Valley are made immediately recognisable by their ochre-coated hair. This young woman is a high-ranking first wife, which we know from the heavy leather and metal necklace with the large cylindrical detail on the front that she is wearing. Her husband also has a second wife, which is indicated by the second plain metal bangle on her neck. The Hamar captivated me.
A tall, good-looking people who are mostly relaxed and unselfconscious in front of a camera, the Hamar are a delight to visit and photograph. They are possibly the most distinctive of the many ethnic groups living in the far reaches of Ethiopia’s Omo Valley, near the border with South Sudan.
There are about 50,000 pastural semi-nomadic Hamar (or Hamer) tribal people in the Southern Nations, Nationalities, and Peoples Region of Ethiopia. Although they skirmish with their neighbours – necessitating the regular carriage of Kalashnikovs – they have been left mostly untouched by modern society and maintain a traditional lifestyle with generations-old cultural practices.
Cattle are central to Hamar life, playing a role in rites of passage and tribal rituals (more about their unique cattle-jumping ceremony some other day). Wealth and status is measured by how many head a family has, and any man who loses a family’s cattle herd will have his reputation ruined – hence the AK-47s. Men marry when they are in their mid-thirties, with the number of brides they can have determined by the ‘bride wealth’ their family can afford to pay to the young women’s families in cattle, goats, and guns.
To the visitor, it is the Hamar’s unique body decorations and clothing that stand out. Traditionally, women and girls wear soft leather smocks richly decorated with beads and cowrie shells, and coat their tightly dread-locked plaits with ochre. Both men and women cover their arms in copper bracelets, and sport liberal beads and scarification (more about that another time). Young men tend towards intricately braided hairstyles, and warriors add elaborate clay caps to their hairdos.
I was lucky enough to make several visits to a large village not far from my accommodation in the market town of Turmi (see: Hamar Village and Hamar Faces). I was travelling with photographer Ben McRae as part of a small-group Piper Mackay Photo-Tour, and we were all contributing to the local economy through the “pay-per-click” photo-tourism prevalent in the Omo Valley. It is only fair that these tribal people should trade on their distinctive appearances, but I couldn’t help but wonder about those who might be considered ‘less attractive’, and therefore earn less supplemental tourist-income.
Join me on a visit to a Hamar village – it is like a journey to another world.
Hamar Village
The Hamar are pastural semi-nomadic people living in villages of simple huts in the hills on the eastern side of the Omo Valley in southern Ethiopia. Shells and Beads
Even the young unmarried women have a poise and elegance that is admirable. As girls marry at around age seventeen, I assume that this young woman is younger than that. Mother and Child
Very young girls also sport the characteristic ochre-coated hair, copper bracelets, beads, and cowrie-shell trimmed smocks. Elder Women
This woman caught my attention on every one of my visits to this village. Hamar Warrior
This man with his regal bearing was another of the villagers that I photographed on more than one occasion. Clay Cap
Traditionally, men who have proven their courage by killing an enemy or a dangerous animal fashion a mud-clay cap into the back of their hair and decorate it with precious feathers. This cap can last for many months. Girl in a Kraal Doorway Young Hamar Girl
Those eyes! And perfect poise. These children are completely unphased by the visitors in their midst. Milking the Cows
Getting candid shots in a pay-per-click village has its challenges! This man was worried about me photographing his cows over the fence around the enclosure until I assured him I was intending to pay him appropriately. Each cow costs extra! Milking the Cows
Cows are central to Hamar economy. The men are responsible for them, and their futures depend on the herd: unless their family has enough cattle, the young men can’t negotiate for a good wife. Earrings and Braids
As he turns back back to his milking, I can admire his beautiful tight braids and copper bracelets. Beads and Braids
Both men and women value their appearance in Hamar society. Hair grooming is an essential part of this: this young man’s beading and braiding clearly have taken a lot of time. Bird in a Bush
This village is in a beautiful pastoral setting. I think this is a superb starling (Lamprotornis superbus). Grandmother in a Hut
The only light in the small and dark Hamar huts is from the low doorway … Family in a Hut
.. and from the chinks in the walls. Woman outside her Home
As is the case with most traditional societies, Hamar people divide tasks according to age and gender. Hamar Woman
Older women – even second wives like this one – have a role and status in the community. Because women marry much younger than men, they are often left widowed, but they maintain some familial control over their husband’s younger brothers and the family livestock. Young Adolescent
This young girl, barely into her teens, was one of the more popular subjects in the village. Young Woman in Saffron That Direct Gaze! Backs and Beads
Two young girls proudly show off their back scarring that they have acquired at a cow-jumping ritual. Beads and Blankets
One of these young women has embellished her pink sunglasses with pink flower. We get a good view of her decorative midriff scarring. Layered in Beads
Another pair of friends, layered in their best beads, present themselves to the camera. Youthful Smile
It is the clear-eyed smiles that I love the most. It is another world.
But, the road network in the region is improving, local towns are expanding, and land is being grabbed for hydroelectric dams and water-guzzling plantations.
 At least some modernisation is inevitable, but the Hamar are confident they can preserved their cultural values and traditions.
I do hope they are right!
Photos: 18October2018
Posted in Africa,environmental portrait,Ethiopia,TravelTags: environmental portrait,environmental portraits,Ethiopia,Hamar,Hamar Village,Omo Valley,portrait,portraits,travel,tribal life,Ursula Wall
Igreja dos Carmelitas
Porto is called the City of Granite, but the liberal use of blue and white azulejo tiles lend a fairy-tale lightness to the elegant old buildings. Finished in 1628, the Igreja dos Carmelitas was once the church of an order of Carmelite nuns, and is separated from its neighbouring monastery church, the Igreja do Carmo, by a one-meter-wide residence. Porto, Portugal’s second largest city, sits nestled into the granite hills either side of the Douro River.
One of Europe’s oldest centres, the early Proto-Celtic settlement of Cale dates back to at least 300 BC. It was conquered by the Romans around 136 BC. and served as the outpost city of Portus Cale (Port of Cale) for many years. This heritage lives on both in the name of the country (Portu-cale) and the city itself (o Porto).
The city’s location at the intersection of the Atlantic Ocean and the Douro River (a major river crossing the Iberian Peninsula) has long given it status as a commercial hub. More recently – in the second half of the 17th century – it is also known for lending its name, “port”, to the fortified wine made from the distilled spirits of grapes from vineyards flanking the Douro Valley.
The city’s rich history is evidenced in its beautiful old buildings, which – thanks to the two-mica granite that most of them are built from – have stood the test of time. The historic old Ribeira district, together with the iconic 19th century double-decker Luiz I Bridge across the Douro, and the formidable Renaissance Monastery of Serra do Pilar overlooking it, have been UNESCO-listed as part of “an outstanding urban landscape with a 2,000-year history.”
The city is a rich treasure-trove for wanderers. The small ship that my husband I were travelling in was docked at the very modern Porto Leixões Cruise Terminal some ten minutes drive away from Porto, so we took advantage of a shore-excursion bus to access some of the high points of this charming sea port.
Do come along!
The Outer Breakwater – Leixões
One of the things I love about approaching places from the water is the very different view you get of the life of a port. This fisherman in his open boat looks so tiny against the vast Atlantic Ocean behind him! “She Changes”
The bus taking us from the port to the city had heavily sun-screened windows which tinted all my photos the most awful colours! Even so, I loved this sculpture, known locally as anémona (the anemone). Installed in 2005, it was designed by American artist Janet Echelman to reference the region’s fishing industry. Porto Tram
From the vantage point of our bus, we get a good view of the local transport options. Plaza – R. das Carmelitas
The cobbled streets are pedestrian friendly. Guide Elsa
Our local guide makes sure we have maps and know our appointed return-time before setting us loose with a variety of options. Livraria Lello e Irmão
My first stop was at the wonderful neo-gothic façade of one of the world’s most beautiful book stores. There was already a queue, and Filipe Teixeira the doorman was the checking tickets – which need to be pre-purchased (€5) around the corner. Livraria Chardron
Built in 1906 by the Portuguese engineer Xavier Esteves, the bookstore is possibly best know for its iconic twisting crimson staircase, where visitors all want their pictures taken. Harry Potter Books
The story is that JK Rowling partly wrote the first Harry Potter book in Porto – and in this library – while working in the city as an English teacher in the early 1990s. Staircase
Rowling is believed to have modelled the fantastical staircases of Hogwarts on this amazing forked staircase rising to the gallery on the first floor. Almost Abstract – Bookshelves
The interior is truly gorgeous, if a little hard to appreciate with the crowds in the space. Shopping
The €5 fee can be used against any purchases. Portuguese Authors
Most of the books are, of course, in Portuguese. Busts of local authors adorn the shelves. Opulence
Much of the interior is treated with painted plaster designed to mimic sculpted wood. Light streams in from the stained glass ceiling. Fonte dos Leões
Not far from the library, we find the Fountain of the Lions, a 19th-century fountain built by a French company in response to an 1882 Porto initiative to bring water into the city. Igreja do Carmo
Partner to the older Igreja dos Carmelitas next door, the late Baroque-style rococo Igreja do Carmo was built between 1756 and 1768. The locally-made tin-glazed ceramic azulejo tiles, depicting Mount Carmel and the founding of the Carmelite Order, were added in 1912. Vímara Peres
We rejoin our bus, and it takes us up to the highest point in the city, the Terreiro da Sé, a vast esplanade which overlooks the old town. A statue of ninth-century nobleman Vímara Peres (820 –873), the first ruler of Portugal, rises against the sky. Porto Cathedral
Originally built in the early 1100s, this Baroque Roman Catholic Cathedral, with 20th century modifications, is one of the city’s oldest landmarks. Ramos Pinto Cellars
From the Terreiro da Sé we have views over the Douro River and the Ramos Pinto Cellars: just one of the many port wine cellars in the region. Igreja Sao Lourenco
We also overlook the mossy spires of the 16th century Church of St. Lawrence, … Torre dos Clérigos
… and over the rooftops to the bell tower of the Baroque Clérigos Church, built between 1732 and 1763. On the Plinth
People sit at the base of the Pillory of Porto, once a place for the hanging of criminals, and an enduring symbol of the power of justice. Tiles at the Cathedral
Blue and white azulejo tiles adorn the cathedral … Balconies and Tiles
… and the houses outside its borders. Monastery of Serra do Pilar
Back in the bus again, we drive past the historic circular monastery, built across the 15- and 1600s … Dom Ponte Luís I
… and the double-decker metal bridge spanning the River Douro. When this bridge – designed Teophile Seyrig, a disciple of Gustave Eiffel – was started in 1880, it was the longest of its kind in the world. Church of Saint Ildefonso
The eighteenth-century Igreja de Santo Ildefonso was undergoing renovations when we drove past. Ribeira Housing
Our last stop was in the charming and picturesque UNESCO-listed riverside district. Lamps and Laundry Traditional Rabelo Boat
From our river-front coffee-shop table, we watched the Rabelo boats – traditionally used to transport port barrels – take tourists along the Douro River. St. John the Baptist
On our way back to the bus for the last time, we passed this quirky modern sculpture of St. John the Baptist by Portuguese artist Joao Cutileiro, … Porto Building Tiles
… and more traditional blue-and-white building tiles. Lines and Curves
Our last images were of the ultra-modern Porto Leixões Cruise Terminal, … Porto Leixões Cruise Terminal
… designed by local architect Luís Pedro Silva, and opened in 2015. Local Police – Porto Leixões Cruise Terminal I’m not sure I have ever seen so many churches in one day!
Porto is a delightful city to explore, and we had the additional pleasure of knowing we’d be sampling some of the local wine with our dinners once we were back on the boat.
Cheers!
Photos: 19April2018
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Great story and images as we’ve come to expect from your wonderful blog. Reading and viewing your posts always brings back wonderful memories of the trips we’ve shared. Thanks for taking the time to put this together with such a wealth of information, insight, and imagery.
Many thanks for your visit, Karl! It’s always great to see you – whether on-line or on the road. 😀
[…] I was travelling with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours. Our small group was attending the Paiya Village Mini Cultural Show, which takes place annually in the Western Highlands of Papua New Guinea, just before the better-known and larger Mount Hagen Show. The beauty of this smaller show is the access that visitors have to the different tribal groups as they decorate their bodies and faces with paint and mud, leaves and feathers (see: Mirror, Mirror!). […]