.jpg) Pharaoh Hatshepsut
Hatshepsut (1507–1458 BC), was the daughter, sister, and wife of kings. From around 1493 BC, she was Queen Consort, then Queen Regent, and finally, the fifth pharaoh of Egypt’s Eighteenth Dynasty. Hatshepsut, fifth pharaoh of the Eighteenth Dynasty, has been called one of Ancient Egypt’s most successful pharaohs.
And yet, she was almost removed from history!
Hatshepsut, whose name means: “Foremost of Noble Ladies” was born to power. She was the only surviving child of King Thutmose I, the third pharaoh of the Eighteenth Dynasty, and his primary wife. However, Thutmose I had a son: Thutmose II, by a minor wife, and this ‘lesser son’ became the next pharaoh.
The politics and timelines are fuzzy, but at around age 12, Hatshepsut married her half-brother Thutmose II and thus became Queen; some say the marriage was to strengthen Thutmose II’s claim to the succession. Others believe that Hatshepsut was the true power behind the throne. She always maintained that she was her father’s intended heir.
Thutmose II fathered a son by a minor wife before his death, and the widowed Hatshepsut took the role of Regent for the infant Thutmose III before declaring herself Pharaoh in her own right. She was not Egypt’s first female pharaoh, but she was the first to proclaim herself such when there was a living male heir.
Again, the motives behind this unusual move have been debated, with traditional Egyptologists arguing that it was her ambition that drove her. More recent scholars have suggested that there was a political crisis, and Hatshepsut was once again shoring up the lineage. She could not have become pharaoh without strong allies at court. She was well trained in royal administrative and religious duties, and she was clearly seen as a competent ruler by her subjects.
Hatshepsut’s 21-year reign is now recognised as a time of peace and prosperity for Egypt. She reopened trade routes, including to to the fabled land of Punt – believed to be the coastal regions of the Horn of Africa. The riches of the realm allowed her to commission hundreds of building projects; she is said to have been one of the most prolific builders in Ancient Egypt.
All records suggest that she and her stepson worked well together, and there is no evidence that her rule was ever challenged. This makes it only more strange that long after her death -two decades into the reign of her successor, Thutmose III – much of her legacy was erased. Her name was removed from the list of kings, many of her monuments were defaced, her cartouches and images were chiseled off stone walls, her statues were toppled, and depictions of her in hieroglyphics were painted over with male figures. Future pharaohs took credit for many of her building projects.
Once again, the motivation is unclear: the classic argument is that Thutmose III was acting out of jealousy and spite after being denied his rightful rule for so long. However, this belies the fact that he was politically active and commanded armies during his stepmother’s reign, and one would have to ask why he waited twenty years! It is more likely that this erasure from history was to protect the place of Thutmose III’s son, co-regent, and successor: Amenhotep II.
For many years, Egyptologists knew very little about Hatshepsut. Fortunately, the attempts to expunge her were incomplete, and many images of the female pharaoh still exist. Her rule was rediscovered in 1822 when scholars of Ancient Egypt were able to decode and read the hieroglyphics on the walls of Deir el-Bahri.
What they unearthed led noted Egyptologist James Henry Breasted to pronounce Hatshepsut “the first great woman in history of whom we are informed.”
.jpg) Carving Alabaster
The workers show us how it’s done.  Explaining Alabaster
Using chant, rhyme, and humour, our host tells us all about alabaster. Alabaster for Sale
There is plenty of product for sale – and there is also coffee and tea. Gift Sales
Markets are ubiquitous at the entries to all the historical sites. Sales are obviously slow! Model of the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut
Hatshepsut’s steward and architect, Senenmut, designed her mortuary temple. Deir Al Bahri
This natural amphitheatre is vast. At first, Hatshepsut’s Mortuary Temple seems dwarfed by the magnificent limestone cliffs that rise nearly 300m above the the valley basin of Deir Al Bahri (Deir el-Bahari). Bus Parking in the Ruins Outside the Memorial Temple of Queen Hatshepsut
Painstakingly restored, the temple originally took 15 years to build. The stunning classic lines and columns bring to mind Greek architecture that wasn’t the norm for another 1000 years. Sphinx of Hatshepsut
Originally, the temple was approached by a grand, sphinx-lined causeway; one lonely and badly damaged sphinx remains. Hatshepsut Colonnades
Some say Hatshepsut portrayed herself as a ‘man’, but she appears in traditional female form and dress in many images. In formal pictures and statues, she is shown as a ‘pharaoh’, with the same false beard, symbols of office, and stylised form that other pharaohs – typically male – are depicted with. “Lady of the Two Lands”
Dressed in pharaoh robes, Hatshepsut’s breasts are shielded behind her crossed arms and the royal staffs of the kingdoms of Upper and Lower Egypt. Hatshepsut Colonnades
The extensive mortuary complex is considered Hatshepsut’s greatest achievement and one of the architectural wonders of Ancient Egypt. Ruined Columns
Much of the complex is still under reconstruction and is out of bounds to visitors. Bas-Relief Wall Decorations
Hatshepsut associated herself with Hathor, incorporating a shrine to the cow-goddess at the southern end of the second level of the mortuary temple. Bas-relief pictures at the entry to Hathor’s Temple depict the goddess in her cow form: in this one, Hathor is licking Hatshepsut’s hand. Egyptian Goddess Hathor
Hathor had a place in every aspect of Egyptian life – and death. A personification of love, beauty, music, dance, motherhood, and joy, she was originally associated with the Milky Way, which was considered to be the milk that flowed from the udders of a heavenly cow. It was she who gave birth to and protected the pharaohs. Hathor on the Columns
Originally, the temple featured twelve Hathor-headed columns, but only a few remain. I particularly like this one, because it shows off her cow-ears. Hatshepsut clearly wanted to be remembered. On her obelisk, she inscribed:
“Now my heart turns this way and that, as I think what the people will say. Those who see my monuments in years to come, and who shall speak of what I have done.”
She certainly left her mark.
Until next time,
Happy Wandering!
Pictures: 07October2019
Posted in Architecture,Egypt,HistoryTags: Ancient Egypt,architecture,Egypt,Hatshepsut,history,Luxor,Mortuary Temple,Pharaoh,Photo Blog,Queen,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
Seventy-Five Mile Beach
This has to be one of the most beautiful stretches of ‘highway’ anywhere! Voted one of the best coastal drives in the world, Seventy-Five Mile Beach on Fraser Island is part of Australia’s National Highway system: speed limits apply – and you need to give way to approaching aircraft! Paradise.
That’s what the Butchulla people, the Traditonal Owners of what is now Fraser Island in Southeast Queensland, called it: K’gari, Paradise.
According to the Aboriginal Dreamtime story, the great God in the sky, Beiral, created all the people, but the people had no lands. Yendingie, a messenger, was sent down from the sky to make the sea and the land. When Yendingie arrived at what is now known as Hervey Bay, he had a helper – the beautiful white spirit-princess K’gari. She worked long and hard with Yendingie, and fell in love with the beautiful place they had created. She begged to be able to stay there forever.
Finally Yendingie agreed. “You may stay here, but you cannot stay in spirit form. I will need to change you.” So he changed her into a beautiful island. He added birds and animals – and trees and flowers – so she would never be alone. He created some mirrored lakes so that she could see into the sky. He made creeks and laughing waters that would become her voice, and he gave the people knowledge and laws, so that they and their children would always be there to live in harmony with K’gari, to keep her company, and to treat her with respect.
When I was told a version of this story, I was standing somewhere along a Fraser Island beach, where, looking back over the landscape, it was easy to imaging a sleeping spirit princess, draped in jewel-green forests and silver clouds.
Thanks to Air Fraser, like Yendingie and K’gari, I could appreciate those mirrors-lakes and lush forests from above. UNESCO-listed Fraser Island truly is a unique place of uncommon beauty: the world’s largest sand island with a remarkable eco-system (see: Fraser Island Forests and Waters).
Come meet K’gari.
Air Fraser Island and Fraser Explorer Tours
Fraser Island’s unique conditions require built-for-purpose transportation. Our tour bus is a 4-wheel-drive multi-geared MAN vehicle, custom-designed in Germany. The Gippsland GA8 Airvan is a single-engined utility aircraft manufactured in Australia. Both are at home on the sand. Pilot in the GippsAero
I love small planes, and I reckon there is almost no better travel souvenir than aerial views of a place you are exploring. Whistling Kite
A raptor circles overhead to show us how it is done. Taxiing
Watching the waves on the beach as we cruise along it in a plane is a new experience for me! (iPhone6) Over Lake McKenzie
Lake McKenzie is truly a heart-shaped gem from the air! As a ‘perched’ lake, it has no river inflow or outflow and contains only rainwater. The white sands surrounding it are almost pure silica. Lake Mckenzie
The acidity of the water keeps it crystal clear and free of growing organisms, as I had discovered myself the day before when I ventured into it. The waters feel like warm silk, and the sands are soft underfoot. Over Lake Wabby
I love the different perspective you get from the air! Lake Wabby is a barrage lake that came about because the encroaching young sand dune, the Hammerstone Sandblow, blocked its water supply. Hammerstone Sandblow
The sands look quite different when you are trying to traverse them! Lake Wabby
Lake Wabby’s emerald colour was more intense at ground level, but the lake’s distinctive half-moon shape was harder to appreciate. The Coast from the Cockpit
I love watching the coastline from the cockpit – even when the skies are closing in. Light on the Pacific
The weather was rainy, and squalls came and went. It was wonderful to watch the dramas of light play out over the water. Mists over Fraser Island
The soft rains drape the sleeping form of Princess K’gari as we continue our flight. Bus on the Beach
We circle back toward Seventy-Five Mile Beach; the tour bus and its earth-bound occupants come into view. Vehicles on Seventy-Five Mile Beach
Special permits, extra insurance, and driving orientations are required by anyone wanting to drive on Fraser Island. Road rules apply, and Nature takes a dim view of operators who don’t respect the conditions (Evening – 07June2019). Wreck in the Water
We had seen this vehicle the evening before (07June2019), not long after it had bogged itself at Yidney Rocks. The tourists on board managed to exit safely through the roof, but the incoming tides made rescuing the bus itself impossible. (Our driver had opted for the longer, inland route – even there, we had to stop to rescue a police 4WD vehicle that had strayed too far into the soft sandy shoulders.) When we saw this vehicle again less than 12 hours later (as pictured here), it was pretty much destroyed by the overnight seas. The Maheno on the Horizon
The skeleton of the SS Maheno, on the other hand, has been weathering the waves since washing up here in 1935. Snapping the Shipwreck
Between 1856 and 1935, twenty-three shipwrecks were recorded in the waters around Fraser Island. The Maheno is the best known, and is a stop on most tourist itineraries. Maheno – The Island
Although the ship was built in Scotland, the name Maheno is the Maori (New Zealand) word for ‘island’. Splash on the Maheno
The Maheno started life as a luxury passenger liner in 1904, and was at one time the fastest ship to cross the Tasman between Australia and New Zealand. Waves over the Maheno
She served as a hospital ship during World War I, making runs in the English Channel and between the British Isles and New Zealand. Sculpture in Rust and Water Waves and Rust
At the end of her days, she was sold for scrap, and was under tow from Sydney to Japan … Waves over the Cabin
… when she was caught and beached here in a 1935 cyclone that devastated parts of the Queensland coast. Rusty Skeleton Almost Abstract : Water and Rusty Iron Seventy-Five Mile Beach
Looking north from the shipwreck, the beach looks quiet and inviting … but: Users, Beware! Paradise, yes.
But, also a land of bogs, wrecks, and ruins.
It always pays to respect Nature – and Princess K’gari.
Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Photos: 07-08June2019
Posted in Australia,Landscapes,TravelTags: aerial,air,Australia,Fraser Island,landscape,National Park,nature,Photo Blog,Seventy-Five Mile Beach,Shipwreck,SS Maheno,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
Man with Prayer Beads – Patan’s Royal Palace
Patan’s Durbar (Palace) Square is an integral part of the Kathmandu Valley UNESCO World Heritage Listing. The former Royal Palace houses the Patan Museum; but it is much more than that. It is a living, breathing place of architectural beauty, where life continues amid precious buildings and earthquake ruins. Religious expression is a part of daily life in Nepal, and even the buildings are a declaration of faith and a demonstration of artistry.
Patan (or Lalitpur (ललितपुर), or Manigal) is the oldest of the three cities in the Kathmandu Valley. It is known for its rich cultural heritage, cottage industries, and skilled craftsmanship – particularly in metal and stone.
In Patan, even the city plan itself is an iconographic expression of Buddhist principles: the city was designed in the shape of the Dharma-Chakra (Wheel of Righteousness). According to the most popular story, Emperor Aśoka (Ashoka), the legendary King of India (r. 268-232 BCE), who embraced Buddhism and ruled across the vast Mauyran Empire, visited this region in 250 BCE while on pilgrimage with his daughter. He directed that five stupas be built: one at each of the four cardinal points, and one in the middle of Patan.
As a consequence, Patan is one of the oldest Buddhist cities in the world.
While the city is said to contain 1200 Buddhist monuments, it is also a center of Hinduism. A dizzying array of courtyards, major temples, and small shrines radiate out from Durbar (or Palace) Square. It is this collection of culturally important and artistically beautiful buildings, with their brick, stone, timber and bronze ornamentation, that results in Patan’s inclusion as one of the seven Monument Zones contributing to the UNESCO World Heritage-listing of the Kathmandu Valley. As UNESCO says, Buddhism and Hinduism both prospered in Nepal and produced an artistic and architectural fusion that came “into its own in the three hundred year period between 1500 and 1800 AD.”
As much as these intricately decorated Newar monuments and buildings impress me, I am even more taken with the people who go about their lives around this living history, and pause to invite strangers to share a glimpse of their world.
“Follow the Regulations Gently”
As soon as you enter Patan’s Durbar Square, you find people draped over the ancient Newar architecture. Guardian Lions
All across Asia, the entrances to homes, public buildings, and temples of various religions, are flanked by a pair of guardian lions. Thought to be stylistically modelled on the Asiatic lion once common across the continent, they are always found in pairs as a manifestation of yin and yang. Unfortunately, they could not protect Durbar Square from catastrophic damage in the earthquake of April 2015. Oil Lamps in a Temple
Countless small temples and shrines are dotted all around the square and the city beyond. They are usually dark, with air that is hot and close from flames, and smoky with spicy incense. Lighting a Flame in a Temple
It is customary to ring a bell, make a small offering, and light a flame to awaken the god or goddess before one worships. Applying a Bindi
Trays of turmeric and vermilion ochre are inside the temple so that people can apply thier own bindis before praying, and then go on with their daily routines. Guardian in the Stone
The Garuda is a legendary bird-like creature in Hindu, Buddhist, and Jain mythology. It represents birth and heaven, and is found all around the buildings of Patan. Brass Goods For Sale
Brass vases, door knockers, singing bowls, and various religious iconography are for sale on the streets and in the shops. (iPhone6) Beautiful Brass Woman in a Window
The are a number of old Newari residential houses around Durbar Square. Ceramic Shrine
Some small shrines are not immediately recognisable as such to outsiders, but if you look carefully, you will see the bell on the left and a burner on the right. Newari Woman in Pink
In Nepal, marigolds are considered pure and called the “herb of the sun”. They are signifiant as a religious symbol in Hindu, Buddhist, and Catholic celebrations. That Smile!
Durbar Square is surrounded with countless shops full of art, craft, and smilling faces. Carved Struts
Everywhere you look, someone has put time and attention into the crafting … Carved Pillar
… of all the woodwork and stonework. Man on the Museum Stoop
And, everywhere, there are people bringing the wood and stone to life. Ornate Building Front
Wood, tiles, brick, and brass: the buildings are a multi-media work of art. Men in their Dhaka Topi
Dhaka ko Topi literally means: “headgear made of dhaka cloth”; dhaka is the hand-spun cotton inlay-pattern weaving used to make the intricately patterned and colourful panels for Nepali hats. Men on the Palace Stoop
The Dhaka topi (ढाका टोपी) is a part of the Nepalese national dress. Patan Shrines
Life goes on around the shrines. Smiling Woman
Wonderful faces are everywhere! Old Newari Man Detail: Stone Carving
Intricate work is all around, … Apsara: Female Spirit
… dancing out of the clouds, waters, and stones of the city, … Old Men on the Palace Stoop
… and the smiles are contagious. That belief that life is in the lap of the Gods helps when things go seriously pear-shaped –
 – and for that, I truly envy the smiling people of Nepal!
Until next time,
Namaste!
Photos: 13March2017
Posted in Architecture,Fine Arts,Nepal,TravelTags: architecture,buddhism,buddhist,environmental portrait,hindu,hinduism,Nepal,people,Photo Blog,religion,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
Falls Mill and Wheel – Museum of Power and Industry
Built in 1873, the old water-powered textile factory in Belvidere is just one of many preserved Historic Places in Middle Tennessee. Tennessee is very much a part of “The South”, and all the complex and tangled history that comes with that. Landlocked, and bordered by eight other states (seven of which belong to “The South” according to the U.S. Census Bureau), the state is vertically sliced into three regions. Even without leaving the central one – aptly named Middle Tennessee – you can immerse yourself in all kinds of stories.
Paleo-Indians are believed to have hunted and camped in what is now Tennessee as early as 12,000 years ago (see: Southern Short Stories), and when Western settlers moved into Middle Tennessee during the 1700’s, it was in violation of existent treaties. This central chunk is home to previous presidents (e.g.: Andrew Jackson’s Hermitage) and Civil War battle grounds and “heroes” (see: Southern Short Stories). It is also known for its moonshine and whisky (see: Jack Daniels), as well as it’s night-life and music (see: Music City – Nashville).
Beyond the area’s comlicated history, however, is the natural environment. I am always amazed by how much wild, wooded space there is in Tennessee; the state is home to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, which – contrary to most peoples’ beliefs – is the USA’s most visited National Park. I’m just as happy walking in the smaller woods, along clear waterways, in search of the many small, but beautiful, waterfalls (see: Woods and Waterfalls).
In short, it is easy to point in any direction and find something to enjoy and/or learn.
My husband has family in Middle Tennessee, and lucky for us, our last visit coincided with great weather. We pointed the car southeast, and found a railroad museum and a museum devoted to early industry.
Join us in the southeastern-most corner of Middle Tennessee:
Cowan Railway Museum
My husband was a great fan of trains and had a complex model set that required a great deal of space! He was thrilled when his daughter pointed him to this place.
The building, circa 1904, that houses the collection is considered an example of “Railroad Gothic”, and is maintained in the original colours. Freight Train
The depot was moved from its original position across the CSX Mainline and deposited further back for safety. The CSX Mainline is very much in use and, like small children, we waved as this freight train hurtled past. Hamburg Süd
It is a small world! I have a cousin who worked for many years as a merchant mariner out of Hamburg, on the North Sea in northern Germany. Whenever I see the containers, I smile. Honouring the Workers
The museum contains a range of bits and photographs, collected over its thirty-plus year history. I particularly liked the name-plaques of all the employees who had worked at the depot. (iPhone6) NC&StL
Chartered in Tennessee in 1845, the Nashville, Chattanooga & Saint Louis Railway served the people of the south until it was absorbed by the Louisville and Nashville Railroad in 1957. This diesel (GE 44 ton, NC&StL #100) was built in 1950. Fowler Center
Such is the the nature of The South, that even when you don’t have gracious antiquities, buildings are made to look as if you do! Although this looks like a fortress, the Fowler Centre is in fact a swimming pool and sports facility, and part of the small private Episcopal liberal-arts college in Sewanee: The University of the South. We were here to look at the swimming pool – where family members had competed – and to have lunch at the most-excellent nearby coffee shop.
As I said earlier: it is a small world. Years later I met a man at a tiny theatre in Sydney: he was on sabbatical as a drama teacher at Sewanee. He was most surprised to meet someone, well across the world, who had heard of the place, let alone visited! Falls Mill Wheel
Our next stop was at nearby Belvidere, where the old Falls Mill houses the Museum of Power and Industry. The 10-metre (32-foot) overshot water-wheel – believed to be the largest still in use in the US – powers the equipment on all four levels of the old building. Falls Mill Machinery
The mill first opened in 1873 as a cotton and woollen factory. It has been re-purposed many times over the years: at times making brooms, working a printing press, powering a cotton gin, operating a woodworking shop, and today produces stone ground cornmeal, flour, and grits. Wool Carding Machine
Antique machinery is exhibited on the first two floors of the old mill, with many of the items still in working order. This old wool carding machine is under refurbishment. 1929 Aeolian Player Piano
The building houses a number of period pieces; … Piano Hammers
… I was fascinated watching the player piano, as – for a quarter – it played the old tunes. Spooling Cotton Spillway on Factory Creek
While conducting the first survey of Franklin County, surveyors made note of areas where waterways had a measurable drop in elevation. Falls Mill and Wheel
These areas were designated as “mill seats”, where the power of the falling water could be harnessed. On Factory Creek
This was one of the first industrial sites in the county, and is a popular destination for visitors today. Tumble Down Shack Upper Falls on Factory Creek Old Machinery Blacksmith
One of the old outbuildings still operates as a smithy, … Fire in the Forge
… where local artisans come to fire up the forge … Working the Metal
… and handcraft unique metal pieces. Cortner Mill Restaurant
It seemed only fitting to finish the day at another reclaimed mill – this one converted to a restaurant … Duck River
…overlooking the Mill Stream Falls on the Duck River. (iPhone6)
There are fewer things more refreshing than waterways through greenery!
 I can’t wait until we can all wander again…
Until next then,
Stay Safe!
Photos: 19May2016
Posted in History,Travel,USATags: antiques,Franklin County,machines,museum,Photo Blog,Tennessee,TN,trains,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,USA
Melpa Men
The tribal people of Papua New Guinea all have distinctive costumes, makeup, and artifacts, which they happily display at cultural festivals, or sing-sings. In communities without a written language, culture is passed down through the oral traditions of art, story-telling, music, and dance. Even architecture and weaponry can signify meaning.
In Papua New Guinea, there are more than more than 850 discrete spoken languages, and until recently, none of them were written down. Even today, adult literacy sits at less than 62%. In a historically nonliterate society with more than 7000 diverse cultural groups, one of the most popular means of education has been through costume, song, and dance.
Different occasions are commemorated or celebrated through their own ritualised expressions of song, dance, feasting and/or gift-giving. All across Papua New Guinea, locally-specific dances have particular meanings: some are a way to welcome visitors, others celebrate a good hunt or victory in war. Others still tell legendary stories, with each step, twist, and jump embodying its own significance and value.
Some of these dances are shared with neighbouring tribes and with visiting outsiders at sing-sings, gatherings of tribes or villages that showcase local dance, costume and music.
I was travelling with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours. Our small group was attending the Paiya Village Mini Cultural Show, which takes place annually in the Western Highlands of Papua New Guinea, just before the better-known and larger Mount Hagen Show. The beauty of this smaller show is the access that visitors have to the different tribal groups as they decorate their bodies and faces with paint and mud, leaves and feathers (see: Mirror, Mirror!).
In addition to the men’s victory dances that are commonly performed at the bigger festivals, we also got to see some of the more story-telling dances: depicting courtship; demonstrating traditional fighting using bows and arrows or axes and shields; and explaining the negotiation of traditional marriage exchanges of bride-price in pigs, money, and shells.
Best of all, we were also treated to a traditional mumu: a feast of pork, chicken and a variety of fruit and vegetables wrapped in banana leaves and roasted in a ground oven of hot stones.
Join me for an afternoon at the sing-sing.
Face in the Mirror
Arriving at the festival venue early gave us a great opportunity to watch the many layers of face-paint take shape. Helping Each Other
In the steaming hot jungle, small tribal groups are helping each other get ready for their fesival performance. Father-Daughter Duo
Not everyone is here to perform: many of the people who live in this village have come to watch the preparations, just as we have. Jiwaka and Engan Dancers
Once the festival opens, there is a cacophony of drums and voices, as different tribal groups work their way onto the grass grounds. Huli Wigmen Dancing
One of the more distinctive groups, in costume and in dance style, is that of the Huli Wigmen. With luxuriant bird of paradise feathers decorating their hats woven from human hair, the face-painted men bang their drums, chant, and bounce up and dawn as if they had springs in their feet. Introducing the Program
This Jiwaka warrior’s bila – or headdress – was an extraordinary confection of feathers, fur, and felt. Over the PA system, he introduced his group; I couldn’t understand a word! Jiwaka Dancers
Jiwaka Province neighbours the Western Highlands Province, and only split away from it in 2012. The division was because of cultural differences and complicated clan affiliations; … Western Highland Women
… even so, there are a lot of similarities between the groups. Western Highland Women Singing
They all love their feathered headdresses, their face paint, their shells, … Western Highland Women Drumming
… and their small kundu drums. Another theme across many of the groups is the ritual moka kina, a necklace or pectoral ornament made from shell, ochre and resin, and symbolising wealth and bride-price. Melpa Woman – Western Highlands
Asaro Mudmen
The Asaro Mudmen are truly unique – even though they have become rather well known recently through travel campaigns. Mudmen Masks
Traditionally, the Mudmen live near Goroka in the Eastern Highlands Province. The masks are hot and heavy, and the men take them off at the first opportunity. Mudman on the Mike
One of the men tells the costume-origin story. Fortunately, I had heard it before (see: Asaro Mudmen), as I found the PA hard to understand. Boney Hands
Another unique group, the Skeleton Men come from Chimbu Province, in the Central Highlands. Skeleton Man
Moving like zombies with their eyes shut, they perform a silent story-dance that tells a tale of brave hunters who rescued their children from a ghost and conducted a magic spell to scare it away. Skeleton Men
Some days earlier, I had watched a group of these men go through their lengthy process of body painting (see: Bugamo Skeleton Men). Jiwaka Dancer
There are more feathered headdresses here than at a burlesque dance show! Melpa in Blackface
The Western Highland headdresses take a variety of forms: the most basic is a head net, wrapped around the wearer’s head, but for special events, fabulous wigs supported by bamboo frames can be made from hair or seed burrs. Western Highland Men
The configuration of the headdress, and the rest of the costume, is determined by the tribe, and the event being celebrated. They are all wearing their moka kina breast plates. Preparing the Mumu
The performers take a break so we can admire the work that has gone into preparing our mumu – earth-oven lunch. Grandma and Bub
I am not the only one anxiously waiting for my food! Lunch is Ready! Western Highland Warrior with his Axe
After lunch, we are treated to complex tales of bride kidnapping, pig theft, and inter-tribal warfare. Highland Warriors in a Melee
As well as stone axes, the men use wooden arrows and spears … After The Battle
… and protect themselves with heavy wooden shields. Pronouncements of a Tribal Elder
After skirmishes and negotiations, a bride price is agreed between villages. Groom’s Group
The groom looks forward to his bride, … The Bride
… the bride is smiling, … Chief with a Moka Kina Shield
… and the pigs and moka kina shields are exchanged. On the surface, it sounds transactional, but the moka was/is an exchange system wherein the donor gives shells and pigs as outright gifts. Reciprocity means that the recipient is later obligated to give a larger amount back. In this way, the exchange of wealth builds friendships and cements alliances.
 The younger generation is faced with the competing demands of tradition and the modern and changing world. Participation in cultural dance performances can instil pride in the old ways, and help bridge the gap to the new.
Here’s hoping!
Pictures: 18August2017
Posted in Culture,Dance,Papua New Guinea,TravelTags: culture,dance,environmental portraits,Papua New Guinea,sing sing,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
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