Young Sumatran orangutan on a high wire, Singapore Zoo

In the Tree Tops
Singapore Zoo is as renowned for its orangutans as it is for its rainforest jungle environment and ‘open concept’ design.

I love a good zoo – and Singapore Zoo is one of the best.

I know there are ethical concerns around keeping animals in captivity, and I’ve talked about these before (see: A Tale of Two Tarongas). Singapore Zoo ticks all the positive boxes: it actively works towards wildlife protection and conservation of biodiversity, it focuses on actual and virtual education projects, it has adopted sustainable consumption practices, and it prides itself on world-class animal care and welfare. 

Originally called the Singapore Zoological Gardens or Mandai ZooSingapore Zoo is particularly beautiful. First opened in 1973, it benefited from modern planning and a substantial original grant from the Government of Singapore. It is set into 28 hectares of lush rainforest, and features naturalistic, ‘open’ exhibits. The barriers – often featuring moats and glass – between the animals and visitors are designed to be unobtrusive. It is like being in a giant aviary: lemurs wander freely, and orangutans and gibbons swing high above the ground from tree to tree and through overhanging wines and ropes, while the visitors watch from below.

We were there to have breakfast with the orangutans. This was the second time I’d visited the zoo and had arrived early for what they call: Jungle Breakfast with Wildlife. The first time we went, several years before, the orangutans were having a month off as part of their animal welfare program, so we missed meeting them. In the intervening years, we had actually visited a colony of semi-wild orangutans in Gunung Leuser National Park, North Sumatra (see: Meet the Locals). But, I was still eager to check out the zoo again – and you have to breakfast somewhere, right?

Modern zoos try to approximate natural habitats, and to help animals simulate instinctive behaviours they would use in the wild. This is most obvious at feeding times. As much as we were able, after we (and the orangutans) had breakfasted, we followed the keeper-talk and animal-feeding times around the zoo. This made the animals more interesting and entertaining to watch. I also loved the unique glass enclosures – especially when combined with water – and the way they added an added dimension to photographic challenges.

I walked around the zoo with the dual goals of enjoying the animals in their pseudo-natural environments, and of making pictures that I thought interesting or artistic. I ended up with so many photos, that I’ve split the file in two. 

Do join me for part one:

Female orangutan swinging in the tree tops, Singapore Zoo

Mother and Child in the Tree Tops
From the minute you enter the park, you can spot animals free-ranging through the tree tops.

Orangutan in the tree tops, Singapore Zoo

Orangutan in the Trees
 The orangutans know it is breakfast time, and they make their way into the feeding platform.

Young Sumatran Orangutan, Singapore Zoo

Eye Contact
It is so easy to feel a connection with these beautiful, gentle creatures.

Orangutangs eating, Singapore Zoo

Orangutangs
Watching them interact with each other is lovely.

Detail: Orangutang Hand with food, Singapore Zoo

Focus on the Hand

Orangutan Eating, Singapore Zoo

Orangutan Eating

Orangutan with food, Singapore Zoo

Those Expressions!

Young Sumatran orangutan at a high wire, Singapore Zoo

Young Sumatran Orangutan
It is anthropomorphising, but those long gangly arms and expressive hands give the animals an insouciant look.

Orangutan with Seeds, Singapore Zoo

Picking Seeds
They have such manual dexterity. I loved watching their concentration as they cracked their sunflower seeds.

Underwater view of a polar bear swimming, Singapore Zoo

Almost Abstract: Polar Bear Swimming
Our first stop after breakfast was at the Frozen Tundra – which I found stunningly beautiful.

Polar bear swimming, Singapore Zoo

Polar Bear in a Waterfall
The glass barrier allows a wonderful split view of the enclosure, …

Visitors on the platform over the polar pool in Frozen Tundra, Singapore Zoo

Around the Polar Pool
… and elevated platforms allow you to look down over the icy pool.

Mickey Mouse Plant, Singapore Zoo

Mickey Mouse Plant – Ochna Serrulata
Back out in the heat of the tropics, colourful plants are all around …

Yellow-Cheeked Gibbon in the trees, Singapore Zoo

Yellow-Cheeked Gibbon – Nomascus Gabriellae
… and monkeys swing in the trees overhead.

Babirusa, Singapore Zoo

Babirusa
Under the tree-top gibbons, a wildly improbable-looking male babirusa, also called a deer-pig or pig-deer, shows off his crazy tusks. Listed as threatened, they are native to nearby Indonesian islands.

Oriental Small-Clawed Otter, Singapore Zoo

Oriental Small-Clawed Otter – Amblonyx Cinerea
These were my favourites! The smallest member of the otter family, the Asian small-clawed otter is a feisty little thing with sharp teeth and partially webbed feet. I spent ages watching their antics.

Four Oriental small-clawed otters, Singapore Zoo

Oriental Small-Clawed Otters – Amblonyx Cinerea
Native to South and Southeast Asia, they live in extended family groups.

Oriental small-clawed otter enclosure, Singapore Zoo

Otter Enclosure
The otter complex gives the animals plenty of varied terrain for running and swimming. I thought the glass and the water made for interesting reflections and layers.

Oriental small-clawed otter enclosure, Singapore Zoo

Almost Abstract: Water and Glass
The otters are almost invisible as they whizz around their waters.
(ISO800 21mm f/2.8 1/30sec)

Oriental small-clawed otters, Singapore Zoo

Feeding Time
In the wild, Asian small-clawed otters live in mangrove swamps and wetlands, and feed on on molluscs, crabs and other small aquatic animals.

Oriental small-clawed otters, Singapore Zoo

Pole Dance
To keep their minds engaged, the zoo animals have to prise their food out of a bamboo pipe.

Oriental small-clawed otters, Singapore Zoo

Whiskers
They seem to be helping each other as they extract their breakfast from the tube.

Turtle in an aquarium, Singapore Zoo

One and Half Turtles
All around the zoo, I found myself fascinated by the split images created by water and glass.

Reflections of people and the hippo pond, Singapore Zoo

Hippo Dreaming
Distorted reflections put people in with the animals they have come to see.

Zoo keeper with howler monkeys all around, Singapore

Feeding the Black Howler Monkeys
Monkeys are always a joy to watch – and they were clearly eager for their fruit.

Black Howler Monkey, Singapore Zoo

Black Howler Monkey
I couldn’t resist a few portraits! Howler monkeys have been called the loudest animals on earth. The males are only ever quiet when sleeping, or like this one, distracted by food.

Female Black Howler Monkey eating, Singapore Zoo

Bliss!
A female black howler monkey enjoys her watermelon.

Patas Monkey, Singapore Zoo

Patas Monkey – Erythrocebus Patas

Gray-shanked douc langur, Singapore Zoo

Douc Langur
The wonderfully colourful grey-shanked douc langur is critically endangered in its native Vietnam.

Zoo keeper with a microphone, Singapore Zoo

Keeper Anne
The animal talks were engaging and informative.

Javan Langur, Singapore Zoo

Javan Langur

Portrait: Javan Langur, Singapore Zoo

Javan Langur

It was Chinese New Year when we visited, and it was the Year of the Monkey – so it seems only apt that I end this set here, with some of the gentle and intelligent faces in the Primate Kingdom exhibit.
Text: Take only Pictures

How lucky it is for us that these animals have such a beautiful space, where they are protected against the incursions of the modern world against their wild habitats, and still accessible to us.

Until next time,

Happy Travelling!

Photos: 15February2016

  • […] I have visited the zoo twice; the first time was back in the days of film, and when I was not yet used to the tropics. Aside from the fact that I was introduced to a python instead of an orangutan at the Jungle Breakfast with Wildlife, I don’t remember much about it. For my second visit, years later, I made sure the orangutans would be in attendance before I booked our breakfast tickets (see: Hands, Teeth, and Almost Abstract). […]ReplyCancel

A hamsa symbol with a star and crescent and the word "Allah" in Arabic against a sunset sky, the Nile, Luxor Egypt.

Sunset on the Nile
The Middle East is the birthplace of the major Abrahamic religions, and it is no surprise that symbols important in Judaism, Christianity, and Islam abound. Our Nile riverboat featured a hamsa or khamsah: a hand with the fingers spread apart to ward off evil; with a star and crescent, representing Islam, off the thumb; and crowned by the word “Allah” in Arabic.

You could be nowhere else…

The songs of Imams on the hot, heavily scented air, are calling you to prayer. The hawkers and beggars lining the streets are noisily entreating you into the bustling markets. The tourist boats rafted on the river are enjoining you to travel back to colonial times …

A Nile riverboat, chugging upstream from Luxor to Aswan in Egypt, was my home for four nights. As I sat on the upper deck with a late afternoon G&T, watching the sun go down over the palm trees and settlements along the banks, I felt transported into another era. I only needed a pith helmet or a long cigarette holder to take my place as an extra in an Agatha Christie story. There is something vaguely disorienting about being in a place that is at once so foreign, and – thanks to movies and books – so familiar. 

After a morning spent exploring Karnak Temple (see: In Worship of Ancient Gods), I had just enough time to wander some of the market streets in Luxor before our boat set sail. I’ve said it before: I love markets. They give the visitor a glimpse into the real, everyday-world of a place.

Photographically, markets are always difficult in terms of their lack of light and space, but that is part of the challenge and the fun! What always surprises me is people’s willingness to have a cheerful exchange with someone who doesn’t speak their language, and to have their pictures made for no reward other than a smile and a shukraan lak.

The Nile River has a mythology all its own. Nicknamed “the father of African rivers,” it is held to be responsible for the development of Egyptian civilisation. Herodotus (c. 484 – 425/413 BCE), who is called the father of history, wrote that “Egypt was the gift of the Nile”. Every year the river would flood, overflowing its banks and depositing new layers of nutrient-rich silt. This made the lands either side of the river very fertile, allowing the Ancient Egyptians to become rich from their agriculture. They paid tribute to Hapi, the God of the annual floods, and their calendar followed the river’s three seasons: Akhet (June-September), the flood season, Peret (October-February), the growing season, and Shemu (March-May), the harvest season.

Join me on a 30 million-year-old waterway, where time loses meaning.

Egyptian man at a fruit drink stand, Luxor.

Fruit Seller
In spite of the heat, the crowded spaces, and the noise, most of what I see in Luxor is fresh and clean.

Baker and his loaves, Luxor Egypt.

“The Best Bread”
There is nothing like freshly baked loaves, hot out of an oven! It smelled as good as it tasted.

Live pigeons on a wicker box. Luxor market, Egypt

Live Birds
Stuffed pigeon is a delicacy in Egypt; the birds are specially bred for market.

Portrait: Woman in a black hijab, Luxor Egypt

Woman in Black
The vendors are smiling and welcoming – even though they know I’m not likely to buy anything.

Market Corner in Luxor Egypt

Market Corner
From fruit to fresh fish: all manner of foods are on display on the streets.

Egyptian men in kaftans negotiating fish sales, Luxor

Fish Sales
Of course, chatting and bargaining is a big part of the social heart of any market.

Close up: Persimmons, Luxor Egypt

Persimmons

Portrait: Man in a laneway, Luxor Egypt

Man in the Laneway

Portrait: Two young Egyptian men in kaftans, Luxor

Fabric Store Shopkeepers
It is dark in the narrow streets and crowded shops – but nothing could dim the light of these two delightful young men. (iPhone6)

Portrait: Young Egyptian man, Luxor

Portrait of an Egyptian Shopkeeper

Egyptian man seated outside a women

Women’s Clothing
All the sales-people seem to be men – even the attendant at this tightly packed women’s clothing store! Note the colourful bras hanging on display.

Women in Black Abayas with shopping on their heads, Luxor Egypt

Women in Black Abayas
There are plenty of women shopping, however, and they leave the market with loads piled on their heads.

Luzor Bridge pylons, Egypt

Bridge over the Nile
As our riverboat pulls out, we get a nice view of Luxor Bridge and its decorated pylons. (iPhone6)

East bank of the Nile, Upper Egypt

On the Nile
Simple brick housing complexes and palm trees slide past as we make our way south, up-river.

Riverboats in clouds of diesel smoke on the Nile, Egypt.

Riverboats on the Nile
The river is full of ships – some adding greatly to the haze and pollution in the air. We are all heading the 53 kilometres (about 33 miles) up-river to Esna. There we will all have to wait – possibly for hours – for our turn through the locks. It is still shoulder season, and tour operators say they haven’t fully recovered from the aftermath of the Arab Spring. This leads me to wonder how busy and polluted this area must be in a good high season!

Riverboats in golden twilight, the Nile, Upper Egypt

Twilight on the Nile
The afternoon draws to a close and the riverboats continue.

Upper deck of a riverboat at sunset, the Nile, Upper Egypt

Upper Deck of a Riverboat
Our boat is time-worn and comfortably shabby around the edges, but sunset bathes the upper deck, disguising the badly-laid artificial grass that passes for carpet.

Sunset on the Palms, Upper Nile, Egypt

Sunset on the Palms
As our boat slips into night, we are called down to dinner, where we are served by liveried staff. Once again, I feel as if I’m living in a dream or an old movie.

Being on the water has that soporific effect – especially on a timeless river like the Nile.

Lucky, really, as it was well after dark when we reached the Esna Locks and we did wait several hours before making our way through.

Text: Safe Sailing

But, we had nowhere better to be!

Until next time,

Safe sailing!

Photos: 08October2019

A paper kite butterfly on a lantana, Wye Valley Butterfly Zoo, Herefordshire, UK.

Transplanted Beauties
A paper kite butterfly (Idea leuconoe), native of Southeast Asia, sits on a lantana (Verbenaceae), native to tropical regions of the Americas and Africa. Neither are indigenous to Herefordshire – but they are quite at home in the Wye Valley Butterfly Zoo.

One of the many things that this year has highlighted is how mobile we have become. I have immediate family on three continents, and I’m used to seeing them regularly. Covid-19 border-closures and travel-bans put an end to my plans this year!

For the most part, I’ve coped, and I have it a lot easier than many people. But with all the recent talk out of the US about Thanksgiving and family feasts, and with Christmas around the corner, I’ve been feeling more lonely and isolated.

So, it was with real joy that I found an old, forgotten file of photos from a day out in Herefordshire, England, with family I haven’t been able to see in person for far too long.

I made a number of journeys to Hereford, in the West Midlands of England, during the years that my daughter lived there (see: Hereford). This particular trip was with my husband, since departed, to spend time with my daughter, her husband and my granddaughter, who was at that time just over a year old. In the intervening years, my granddaughter has gained a brother, and has grown up beyond recognition: small people change so quickly!

Naturally, day trips with a toddler need to be close by and child-friendly. An afternoon surrounded by colourful butterflies from around the world at the Wye Valley Butterfly Zoo, some problem-solving at the the adjoining “aMazing Hedge Puzzle”, and ice creams along the River Wye, fit the bill beautifully. These attractions were conceived of and built by brothers Lindsay and Edward Heyes who still manage the complex. In the UK, a “zoo” is defined as any establishment where animals of any wild species – including insects – are exhibited to the public. The Zoo Licensing Act 1981 requires that if animals are to be kept in enclosures, their environment must allow them to behave in as normal a manner as possible.

Consequently, most of the butterflies at the zoo are free-flying in a warm and humid space, lush with greenery.

Sheep in the grass in front of a manor house, Symonds Yat West, UK

Pastorale – Symonds Yat West
This is how I picture England: old brick and stone manor houses, and bucolic sheep in the fields. (iPhone5)

Family reading information labels, Wye Valley Butterfly Zoo, Herefordshire, UK.

Reading the Labels
There is easy-to access information all around the different enclosure areas.

Caterpillars on green leaves, Wye Valley Butterfly Zoo, Herefordshire, UK.

Caterpillars
Every stage of the life-cycle is illustrated.

Blue Morpho Peleides at rest, Wye Valley Butterfly Zoo, Herefordshire, UK.

Butterfly at Rest
Unfortunately, if I made notes at the time, I have long since lost them!

Blue Morpho Peleides at rest and in flight, Wye Valley Butterfly Zoo, Herefordshire, UK.

Blue Morpho Peleides
I spent a lot of time hunting the internet before realising that these are the same species: the ventral wing surface – the underside – of the adult butterfly has beautiful eyespots, but none of that gorgeous blue seen on the upper.

Iphone recording a Blue Morpho Peleides, Wye Valley Butterfly Zoo, Herefordshire, UK.

“Catch me if you Can!”

Yellow and brown butterfly, Wye Valley Butterfly Zoo, Herefordshire, UK.

In the Lantana

Blue Morpho Peleides, Wye Valley Butterfly Zoo, Herefordshire, UK.

Blue and Black

Toddler on a pathway, Wye Valley Butterfly Zoo, Herefordshire, UK.

Wonder and a Handful of Rocks
The butterflies are quick enough to be at no risk from a curious toddler.

Emerald Swallowtail, Wye Valley Butterfly Zoo, Herefordshire, UK.

Emerald Swallowtail – Papilio Palinurus
These are native to Southeast Asia, but popular in butterfly houses around the world.

Man and a toddler watching butterflies, Wye Valley Butterfly Zoo, Herefordshire, UK.

Dad and Daughter
Trays of food attract butterflies to accessible observation spots.

A paper kite butterfly on a lantana, Wye Valley Butterfly Zoo, Herefordshire, UK.

Rice-Paper Butterfly
The paper kite butterflies (Idea leuconoe) are never still.

Toddler on a pathway, Wye Valley Butterfly Zoo, Herefordshire, UK.

Stones
Our toddler was as fascinated by the rocks on the pathways as she was by the butterflies.

Close-up: toddler on a pathway, Wye Valley Butterfly Zoo, Herefordshire, UK.

Wonder
Watching young children examine the world is always a wonderful experience.

Small Red, Black and White Butterfly, Wye Valley Butterfly Zoo, Herefordshire, UK.

Small Red, Black and White Butterfly
I never did succeed in identifying this pretty little thing.

Malachite butterfly on lantana, Wye Valley Butterfly Zoo, Herefordshire, UK.

Malachite Butterfly – Siproeta Stelenes
The pretty malachite, named for the bright green mineral malachite, is one of the most common butterfly species in Central and northern South America.

Butterfly front on, Wye Valley Butterfly Zoo, Herefordshire, UK.

Eye-to-Eye

Portrait: Lindsay or Edward Heyes outside the aMazing Hedge Puzzle, Herefordshire, UK.

One of the Heyes Brothers
Also operated by brothers Lindsay and Edward Heyes, the aMazing Hedge Puzzle is a short walk away. I don’t know which of the brothers this is, but he proudly shows us his maze lapel pin as he welcomes us.

The Jubilee Maze from the viewing area, the aMazing Hedge Puzzle, Herefordshire, UK.

The Jubilee Maze
The brothers planted over a kilometre of hedges in 1977 to form this traditional hedge maze with a charming temple at the centre.

Man and a toddler walking a path along the Wye, Herefordshire, UK.

Walking along the Wye
For a toddler, a walk along the the straighter paths beside the river separating England from Wales is just as engrossing as a maze.

In February 2020,  Storm Dennis wreaked chaos across the Wye Valley. The river burst its banks at Symonds Yat and the Wye Valley Butterfly Zoo (amongst other places) was inundated with as much as two metres of water. Coronavirus-lockdown and restrictions hampered the necessary repairs to the zoo; the centre is unlikely to reopen before next year (BBC News).

Text: Keep smilingNothing stays the same … 

But, even if we have to stay home, we can keep smiling.

Until next time!

Photos: 24April2016

Portrait: Indian sadu with a clay pipe, Haridwar

Smoking Ganja on the Ganges
Marijuana has been a part of the culture in India for thousands of years. It is not uncommon to see sadhus fixing a chillum (a conical clay pipe) full of cannabis or hash and tobacco.

“Respect all religions. Practice your own.”

So said a Swami visiting Australia many years ago in interview when asked if he wished to attract people to his Hindu faith. Proselytisation is an alien concept in Indian religions such as Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism and Sikhism.

Sectarianism violence has played – and still plays – a central role in the politics of the Indian subcontinent, as it does in the rest of the world. But, my experience on the ground has always been of people for whom religious expression is an integral part of their daily lives, and who are happy to share their rituals with me – and even give me blessings – without any expectation that I believe as they do.

This was certainly the case ten years ago when I was in the most holy Hindu city of Haridwar in Uttarakhand, North India, with photographers Gavin Gough and Matt Brandon to experience the Kumbh Mela

I’ve written about the Kumbh Mela before (see: Faces in the Crowd; Crowds on the Move; and  Colours in the Crowd). Considered the world’s largest congregation of religious pilgrims, the festival takes place every three years at one of four sacred river sites. Hindu faithful come from all over India, carrying their kumbhs (water pots) or other containers to transport water from the sacred rivers home with them. The festival plays a central spiritual role in the country and is inscribed on UNESCO’s Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

A large proportion of the more than 10 million people who arrived in the ancient city of Haridwar to take part in the gathering were sadhus – those wandering ascetics seen all across India and the neighbouring countries. These men fascinate me: although the colour of their robes and the design of their tilaka (forehead markings) are meant to show which sect they belong to, I never saw two who looked the same! Indeed, researching the literature only reinforced my confusion about their many different traditions, customs, practices, and beliefs. According to one site (Facts and Details), there are around five million sadhus in the country, belonging to several thousand schools or sects.

On more than one occasion on that long-ago trip, I was offered a share of pipe by one of the sadhus. In most Indian states, possession of marijuana or hashish is a criminal act, and secular people caught indulging can be subject to harsh penalties. But sadhus – many of whom sit in a smoke haze all day – seem to be exempt. 

Even more commonly (and possibly just as high-risk for a foreigner!), I was invited to share food that women were making at their camp sites. I’m always moved by how generous people can be with strangers – even when they seem to have so little themselves. I acceded to some of these offers and the food was always wonderful. Fortunately, I suffered no ill effects. 

Come with me to the portable campsite in Haridwar and meet a few of the colourful Kumbh Mela pilgrims.

Wooden barriers, Bairaagi Camp, Haridwar India

Corral
The Bairaagi Campsite outside central Haridwar has an interesting crowd management system.

Sadhu with prayer beads, Haridwar India

Sadhu with Japamala
Garlands of prayer beads – usually 108 – are commonly used to keep count while reciting prayers or mantras.

Sadhu greeting namaste, Haridwar India

“Namaste!”
So many of the visiting holy men are quick to greet me.

Portrait: Smiling Sadhus, Haridwar India

Smiling Sadhus
This was the eve of the holiest day of the kumbh mela: everyone was in a good mood.

Sadhu with a metal cup on his groin, Haridwar India

Tin Cup
The famous Naga sadhus, who are totally naked except for the ash they smear their bodies, were in a remote area of the camp, and I didn’t go looking for them. But, even in the central areas, there were some unique forms of dress.

Portrait: Rapturous sadhu dancing, Haridwar India

Rapture
This joyful sadhu with his beads, bells, and bone stick, was my favourite; … 

Portrait: Rapturous sadhu dancing, Haridwar India

Dancing Sadhu
… he certainly lived up to the exhortation to dance like nobody is watching.

Hindu priest reading in a Kumbh Mela tent, Haridwar India

Reading Prayers
Religious study, and philosophical discussion and debate, are a large part of the purpose behind the gathering.

Portrait: Young Indian man, Kumbh Mela, Haridwar India

Young Man at the Mela

Indian guru on a stage in a Kumbh Mela tent, Haridwar India

Guru on a Stage
Every colourful tent houses its own sect, and every sect has its own gurus, acolytes, and devotees.

Detail: Hands mixing tilaka paste, Kumbh Mela, Haridwar India

Mixing Tilaka
Outside the tents, groups of men are clustered, …

Close-up: a sadhu applying tilaka to another

Applying Tilaka
… helping each other get ready for the day.

Detail: Hands mixing tilaka paste, Kumbh Mela, Haridwar India

Mixing Colours
Tilaka is generally made by mixing freshly ground sandalwood, vermilion, turmeric, or ash with lime or water. The actual composition is prescribed by one’s purpose and religious sect.

Applying Tilaka
Tilaka is generally applied with the ring finger to the forehead …

Portrait: a sadhu applying tilaka to his arm.

Sadhu Getting Painted
… and on the arms, chest, neck, and back: all while reciting prayers or mantras.

Two sadhus under a ashwattha fig tree, Haridwar India

Under a Sacred Fig
Bodhi trees (ficus religiosa) are found all over Southeast Asia. Sacred in Hinduism and Buddhism, they provide local medicines – and shelter from the heat.

Portrait: Sadhu with a pipe being lit, Haridwar India

Lighting a Chillum

Portrait: Indian sadu with a clay pipe, Haridwar

Concentration

Portrait: Hindu Man in dreadlocks, Haridwar India

Hindu Man

Hands over a fire full of Dahi Puri, Haridwar India

Many Hands
Like an army, a religious festival marches on its stomach. But, making food for the masses is no chore when friends work together.

Women at a fire full of Puri, Haridwar India

Cooking Panipuri
In one popular street food, semolina pockets are stuffed with cooked potato, onion, and chutney. This version was cooked over a fire fuelled by dried dung.

Women at a fire full of Puri, Haridwar India

Watching the Fire
The women keep careful watch over the cooking food.

Hands making Puri, Haridwar India

Hands making Food
The balls come out of the fire too hot to handle!

Tin plate of panipuri and chilli, Haridwar India

Panipuri and Chilli

Woman

Bags of Herbs
The women have brought their ingredients with them.

Woman

Cooked Tomatoes
Freshly cooked tomatoes are peeled, before the herbs and spices are added to make a tangy sauce. The end result was wonderfully tasty!

Portrait: Hindu Man in a long beard, Haridwar India

Sadhu in a Niche
There is a charismatic holy man in every nook and cranny –

Portrait: Hindu woman with a bindi, Haridwar India

Woman in Purple
– and smiles are all around.

The mood over the whole festival grounds was euphoric.

Sign-Off-Namaste

Of course, part of that could have been the cannabis smoke wafting through the air.

Namaste!

Photos: 13April2010

Vieux Bassin, Honfleur Waterfront, France

Vieux Bassin
The multicoloured slate-clad buildings overlooking Honfleur’s old harbour date back to the 15th- and 16th-centuries.

I love the old cobbled cities of Europe, and the historical stories they tell.

I spent some of my school years living in the French-speaking parts of Eastern Canada where the historical root and ties were to France. When I was studying the history of the early European explorers and settlers in Canada, their names were engraved in the streets and monuments all around me. Perhaps this is why, when we were reading about the Seven Years’ War between the British and the French for dominance over their North American territories, I was always on the the side of the French – even though the historical consequences of the pivotal Battle of Quebec in 1759 are known to every Canadian school child. 

Half a lifetime later and half a world away, in the parklands along the Seine in Paris (see: Monday Morning in Paris), I was ridiculously excited to come across busts of the best known of those early French colonialists: Jacques Cartier, who gave “Canada” its name, and Samuel de Champlain, the “Father of New France”, who founded some of the earliest European colonies on the North American continent.

Our history books made note of how many trips these men made from their native France, but they didn’t really give one an idea of how long the voyages took, or how dangerous they were in the vessels of the day. Fast-forward a few years, and I was standing in St Malo, Brittany, from whence  mariner Jacques Cartier set off on his three exploratory expeditions to North America (see: Saint Malo Brittany). I had taken an hour and a half to motor in on the fast ferry from Jersey in the Channel Islands; Cartier’s first voyage, in 1534, took twenty days of laborious sailing due West across the Atlantic Ocean to what is now Quebec

Then, a few years ago, I was on a small ocean vessel that was docking in Le Havre for a day: looking at the excursions available to me, I decided on a half-day trip to the medieval town of Honfleur. Located near the mouth of the Seine River, this charming seaside city was once a pivotal maritime port. At least some of Samuel de Champlain’s trips across the Atlantic Ocean to Canada (He made between 21 and 29 in total!) departed from here: his 1608 trip to found a settlement at Quebec City, and some of his other voyages, are commemorated in a plaque inscribed in 1899 and posted at the memorial arch in his honour in the Honfleur’s Old Town.

Although Honfleur is both a river-port and a sea-port, in the 19th century, Le Havre overtook it as a commercial enterprise. Honfleur, however, wins the tourism stakes: Le Havre was devastated by World War II bombing, and has been called one of the France’s ugliest cities. By contrast, Honfleur with its picturesque 17th-century harbour ringed by 15th- and 16th-century buildings has long attracted artists – including impressionists like Claude Monet – yachting travellers, and tourists alike.

Join me for a walk around La Vielle Ville (The Old City).

Flowers in a public garden, Honfleur, France

Honfleur Crossroads
The skies are chancy when our bus drops us off, but the spring flowers more than make up for overcast weather.

Orange poppy in a garden bed, Honfleur, France

Poppy in a Garden Bed
I love a French spring! The flowers and new growth are magic (see: Les Couleurs de Printemps).

La Vieille Ville across the Old Harbour, Honfleur, France

La Vieille Ville
Our first glimpse of the Old Town across the Old Harbour is a tantalising jumble of historical periods.

Quai Lepaulmier Wash House, Honfleur, France

Quai Lepaulmier Wash House
Public wash houses were common in Europe before the invention of washing machines. The Honfleur Tourism website lists three: this one was inaugurated in 1867.

Saint-Léonard Wash House, Honfleur, France

Le Lavoir Saint-Léonard
The Saint-Léonard wash house is close by; fed by a nearby spring, it was restored in 1807. The gothic-style Église Saint-Léonard sits behind.

Pale green tree leaves, Honfleur, France

Foliage in the Flower Town
Honfleur calls itself a “Ville Fleurie” or Flower Town, and the gardens are lovely. I think this is a local dogwood tree.

St. Leonard

Église Saint-Léonard
A front view of St. Leonard’s Church shows off its flamboyant late-fifteenth century façade and its large octagonal dome-topped tower, dating to 1760. The first church on this site was consecrated in 1186, but destroyed during the Hundred Years War (1337 – 1453).

Mounted Jeanne d

Jeanne d’Arc – Église Saint-Léonard
In France, you are never far from representations of Joan of Arc – one of the country’s nine secondary patron saints, and still a semi-legendary figure almost five centuries after her death.

Looking over the Jardin du Tripot, Honfleur, France

Jardin du Tripot
This modern urban park was designed and developed reusing old materials reclaimed from the old tanneries that once occupied the site. This allows it to seamlessly merge into the historic heart of the Old Town.

Enfant sous un Parapluie sculpture, the Jardin du Tripot, Honfleur, France

Enfant sous un Parapluie
French artist Annick Leroy was commissioned to produce works for the space. This fountain depicts a naked girl under an umbrella.

Annick Leroy sculpture of geese, the Jardin du Tripot, Honfleur, France

Geese
Unfortunately, the water wasn’t running when I was in the garden, so the geese weren’t spitting their waters back into the Claire River below.

Tourism Office and curved glass, Honfleur, France

Reflections of Old and New

Shop window: bottles of calvados and cider, Honfleur, France

Calvados Country
This is apple country: calvados (apple brandy aged in oak barrels) and classic cider are everywhere.

Entry arch to the Cour de Roncheville, Honfleur, France

Cour de Roncheville
Stone walls, cobbled streets, and courtyards: the whole town is a living museum.

Le Musée d’Ethnographie et d’Art Populaire Normand, Honfleur, France

Timber-Framed Buildings
Some of the building have been reclaimed and converted into actual museums, like this 16th century prison, which now houses Le Musée d’Ethnographie et d’Art Populaire Normand. The museum recreates domestic and economic life in old Normandy.

Vieux Bassin, Honfleur Waterfront, France

Vieux Bassin
Back in the open, we again have views of the houses standing higgledy-piggledy along the Old Harbour.

Carrousel in Honfleur, France

Carrousel à Honfleur
Every seaside town has a merry go round. This two-tiered carrousel sits on the Old Harbour

Woman and child on the Carrousel in Honfleur, France

Merry go Round
… and is enjoyed by young and old.

The lieutenancy building, Honfleur France

La Lieutenance
The 18th century lieutenancy building at the entrance to the old harbour was the home of the Governor, and later the commerce tribunal. It now a houses restaurant.

Bust of Samuel de Champlain, memorial arch, Honfleur France

Memorial to Samuel de Champlain
Behind the lieutenancy, a bust of Samuel de Champlain and a plaque in his honour are posted next to the eponymous memorial arch.

Saint Catherine

Saint Catherine’s Catholic Church
The beautiful Saint Catherine’s is France’s largest wooden church. It was built in the 15th century by ships’ carpenters, and is almost entirely covered in wooden shingles.

Portrait: woman in profile, Honfleur France

Local Guide
Our walking guide points out some of the building’s finer details.

Saint Catherine

Saint Catherine’s Bell Tower
The church bell is in a separate building across the plaza; it too is covered in chestnut shingles.

Candles inside Saint Catherine

Candles
Catholicism is the official religion in France, and 80% of the population are nominally Roman Catholic. Saint Catherine’s is still a consecrated building and home to an active parish.

Lamp and vase in a window, Honfleur France

Shuttered Window
Back on the narrow streets, everyday life is nestled into the old buildings.

Entry to an Honfleur courtyard, France

“Honfleur, la Cité des Peintres”
One of the earliest the French impressionists, Eugène Boudin was born in Honfleur. The city has long attracted artists.

The lieutenancy building, Honfleur France

The Lieutenancy
It is all quiet around the Vieux Bassin as we head back towards the outer docks.

Nets and ropes hanging over a rail, Honfleur France

Hung out to Dry
This is still a working dock; …

Detail: Nets and ropes hanging over a rail, Honfleur France

Nets and Ropes
… and the fishermen keep a close eye on their nets.

Fishing Boats, Honfleur France

Fishing Boats
Colourful boats sit in the East Harbour as we return to our own vessel.

I have a confession to make: before we returned to our ship, we indulged in some crêpes à la Normande with apples and Calvados

But, even without the crêpes and the Canadian connection, Honfleur was a delightful place to explore.

Text: Bon Appétit

Until next time,

Enjoy!

Photos: 23April2018