Sierra lily blooms, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

Sierra Lily (Lilium Kelleyanum)
Could a wildflower be more elegant? The Sierra lily, also known by the common name Kelley’s lily, grows up to two meters tall in the wetlands of the High Sierra.

There is a special magic about alpine flowers in their natural habitats!

They are ruggedly unique, suited to their particular alpine environments, and yet delicate in their beauty. Whether it is in the Swiss Alps (see: Rainy Alpine Hillsides) or the Snowy Mountains of Australia (eg: Alpine Flowers and Summer Snow), there is something uplifting about fields and meadows of seasonal wildflowers.

So, I was thrilled when a friend of mine wanted to organise a week or two of wildflower photo-walks near her homes in the Eastern Sierras while I happened to be in North America. When the time came, our other intended photography-companions ended up elsewhere, so it was just the two of us following the hiking trails and seeking out the sights of Mono and Madera Counties, high in the mountains of California (see: Waters and Wildflowers).

Of course, you can never predict the best time for wildflowers, as they depend on the elevation, the depth of the winter snows and length of the winter season, and the timing and generosity of the spring showers. Still, California’s tourism trades on “blooms” and advertises the flowers of Mono County as arriving late May, hitting their peak late in June, and lasting through July. Hedging our bets, we’d planned my trip for mid-July, and the flowers did not disappoint.

We were based in the town of Mammoth Lakes, and had spent the morning hiking and photographing in the Devils Postpiles National Monument (see: Devils Postpiles and Rainbow Falls). From there, it was a short drive to the Red’s Meadow Area of Inyo National Forest. This is access point for the Agnew Wildflower Loop, an easy one kilometre (0.6 m) loop through lush, upper-montane grasses, and a variety of wildflowers.

When I’d had my fill of lilies in the Agnew Meadow, we drove the twenty minutes across to the base of the Mammoth Mountain Ski Area, and took the gondola up the hill to see what was blooming there.

Agnew Meadow is at 2316 m (7600 ft) elevation; the base of Mammoth Mountain is 2743 m (9000 ft), and the top of the Panorama Gondola is 3369 m (11,053 ft). Naturally, flowers growing so high above the tree line are going to be compact and low to the ground, and therefore less ‘showy’ than the Sierra lilies on the Agnew Wildflower Loop. I loved them anyway – but was disappointed not to be able to get names for most of them!

Join me for some summer blooms in the Eastern Sierras:

Signboard: Agnes Meadows Wildflower Walk, Inyo National Forest California USA

Agnew Meadows Wildflower Walk
This area is known for larkspur, lupine, lilies, columbine, and Indian paintbrush – some of which we didn’t see.

Sierra lily blooms, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

Sierra Lily (Lilium Kelleyanum)
To my mind, the beautiful blooms of the Kelley’s lilies more than made up for any missing flowers in the mix!

Sierra lily blooms, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

A Single Bloom
The large, bell-shaped, yellow to orange flower has six long stamens hoping to attract swallowtail butterflies for pollination.

Sierra lily blooms, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

An Inflorescence
Each lily stem can produce up to 25 golden flowers.

Swamp Onion in bloom, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

Swamp Onion (Allium Validum)
The common swamp onion – also known as wild onion, Pacific onion, and Pacific mountain onion – is native to the west coast mountains of North America.

Common yarrow in Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

Common Yarrow – Achillea Millefolium
A member of the aster family, the tall, white yarrow has a long blooming season.

Purple Monkshood, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

Monkshood – Aconitum Columbianum
I had trouble distinguishing the monkshood from the larkspur and lupine, but – based on the leaves – I’m pretty sure I’m right about this one.

Golden Buttercups, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

Golden Buttercups – Ranunculus Occidentalis

Yosemite Onion, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

Yosemite Onion – Allium Yosemitense
Or another swamp onion? I’m going by the colour, but to my eye, it could be either – or something else entirely!

California corn lily, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

So Pretty – So Poisonous!
The California corn lily or California false hellebore (Veratrum californicum) is a tall, pretty, and extremely poisonous plant native to these hight mountain meadows.

The mountains of Inyo National Forest California USA

Over the Mountains
As we drive out of the meadow and back to Mammoth for lunch before ascending the mountain, we get views over the rocky crags and pine forests.

A Panorama Gondola car, Mammoth Mountain California USA

Panorama Gondola
The cable car up Mammoth Mountain takes us from 2743 m (9000 ft) to 3369 m (11,053 ft).

Empty ski chairs, summer, Mammoth Mountain California USA

Summer Ski Slopes
The ride up the hill affords some great views …

View through the top gondola station, summer, Mammoth Mountain California USA

Through the Gondola Station
… before landing us at the top station.

Gondolas, summer, Mammoth Mountain California USA

Gondolas on the Mountain
The mountain rises high above the township below, …

Patch of snow, summer, Mammoth Mountain California USA

Summer Snow
… and the views extend in all directions.

Dirtbike riders at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Dirt Bike Riders on the Slope
Like many other ski resorts, Mammoth Mountain has gone to some lengths to attract summer visitors.

Low rise alpine flowers at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Low Rise Alpine Flowers
I loved the fuzzy, curling leaves on these little yellow flowers. I think they are one of the many hymenoxys genus, but I can’t find an exact match.

Tiny yellow and red succulents at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Tiny Succulents
In this high and arid environment, plants need to be low and compact to survive.

Lakes Basin from the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Lakes Basin from the Mountain

Low rise alpine flowers at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Sunny Yellow Flowers
Another lovely yellow flower; probably another hymenoxys.

Purple flowers in the gravel at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Purple Flowers in the Gravel
This tiny little flower reminds me of the monkeyflower group – but again I could find no match on line.

Small round yellow flower at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Tiny Flowers Standing Tall

Tiny white alpine flowers at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Tiny White Alpine Flowers
I think these pretty little flowers are ‘Moonbeams’ (Clematis x cartmanii).

Three cyclists at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Cycles at the Top of Mammoth

Mammoth statue, Mammoth Lakes, California, USA

Mammoth Sculpture
After descending Mammoth Mountain, we pause to admire the giant mammoth statue outside the Visitors’ Center.

Fresh air, alpine walks and wildflowers –

Who could ask for more?

Happy Wandering!

Pictures: 17July2013

The National Museum of Oman from the road, Muscat.

Museum and Mountains
The National Museum of the Sultanate of Oman is like a symbol of Muscat, or of Oman as a whole: modern architecture based on traditional Omani Arabic principles, surrounded by an oasis of lush gardens and rugged, arid hills – and watched over by medieval Portuguese forts.

Muscat, the Sultanate of Oman’s capital and most populous city, has been known as an important trading seaport since at least the early 1st century. Hemmed in by the rugged Western Al Hajar Mountains, the sheltered port city lies on the Arabian Sea along the Gulf of Oman, where the waters lead east to the Indian Ocean, and west to the Straits of Hormuz and the Persian Gulf.

The original tribal dwellers of this strategically important location were challenged by the Neo-Persian Empire in the 3rd century CE, but the influence of the Al-Azd tribal Arab dynasty continued to grow until the First Imamate was established in the 9th century. The Portuguese conquered Muscat in 1507, built fortresses – which still stand – to protect their trading routes, and maintained a hold on the city against challenges from Persia and the Ottoman Turks for over a century.

By the early 1600s, the balance of power shifted again, from the Persians and the Portuguese to local Omanis, but infighting and conflict continued until the emergence of the Al Bu Sa‘id dynasty in 1749. This family has ruled Oman ever since.

Oman might be the oldest independent state in the Arab world, but it is a bundle of contradictions. The country is an absolute monarchy, and although the current ruler Haitham bin Tarik Al Said is described as “outward-looking and Western-oriented”, as with any autocracy, civil and human rights can be ignored with impunity.

But, the country has come a long way. Until the overthrow of Sultan Said bin Taimur, who ruled from 1932-1970, the country was closed to any outside influences. In spite of considerable proceeds from the export of oil, the people suffered high mortality rates. There were only three schools, the literacy rate was 5%, and there were only 10 kilometres (6 mi) of paved roads. By contrast, in 2010, after forty years of rule by his son, Sultan Qaboos bin Said, the United Nations ranked Oman as the most improved nation in the world in terms of development.

This development is not unbridled, however. While new buildings look to safety and function, they are also expected to conform to design and height restrictions, and must be in “harmony with the elements of Islamic and Arab Omani architecture”. As a consequence, Muscat’s urban landscape consists of modern low-lying white buildings that blend seamlessly with historical architecture and the landscape.

Oman’s return to modern development and an outward-looking economy make it a comfortable place to visit. Tourism is the fastest-growing industry, and provided one respects local rules and traditions, the country feels safe and hassle-free.

Certainly, Muscat was a pleasure to explore, with plenty to see.

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque Prayer Hall, Muscat Oman

Prayer Hall
Our first stop on a day tour was at the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque (see: Sacred Spaces), where – outside prayer hours and with our heads suitably covered – we wandered around the magnificent interior. This intricate 21 tonne carpet took four years to make, and the 14 metres (46 feet) tall Italian-made central chandelier includes 600,000 Swarovski crystals.

Inside the Muhammad al-Amin Mosque, Muscat Oman

Inside the Mosque Muhammad al-Amin
We then spent time exploring the slightly more modern marble-clad Muhammad al-Amin Mosque (see: Sacred Spaces).

As Sultan Qaboos Port across the Muttrah Corniche, Muscat Oman

Sultan Qaboos Port
Muscat clings to the waterfront. The Muttrah Corniche follows the outlines of the Sultan Qaboos Port. The wealth here is evidenced in the two royal yachts sitting in the harbour.

Entry to Mutrah Souq, Muscat Oman

Entry to Mutrah Souq
Regardless of vagaries of spelling, the Muttrah Souk is a delight to wander around.

Snuff Tins, Mutrah Souq, Muscat Oman

Snuff Tins
It is one of the oldest marketplaces in the Arab world, and although there are some products aimed at tourists, it clearly is a local market.

Trinkets, jewels and lamps for sale in a crowded stall, Mutrah Souq, Muscat Oman

Trinkets, Jewels and Gems
Every square inch is full of fascinating products, and the while the shopkeepers are friendly, they weren’t intrusive.

Arabic coloured glass lanterns, Mutrah Souq, Muscat Oman

Traditional Glass Mosaic Lanterns

Mutrah Souk aisle, Muscat Oman

Souk Corridor
It was hot outside, but the wide lanes of the souk were actually relatively cool and restful – and the whole place smelled delightfully of Frankincense.

Intricate gold jewellery, Muscat Oman

Gold Finery
There is some real money in this city! I settled for a couple of scarves.

Mutrah Fort, Muscat Oman

Mutrah Fort
Back on the waterfront, we found a local place to eat lunch under the watchful eye of the tower built by the Portuguese in the 1580s as part of the city fortifications.

Waterfront Fish Sculpture, The Corniche, Muscat Oman

Waterfront Fish Sculpture

The Corniche, Muscat Oman

The Corniche
The roadway along the waterfront is flanked with beautifully tiled walkways which culminate in parks on the points.

Dhow moored in the harbour, Muscat Oman

Dhow in the Harbour
Oman takes great pride in its boatbuilders, and traditional wooden dhows are still used for fishing and tourism.

Riyam Incense Burner, Muscat Oman

Riyam Incense Burner
High above a waterfront park, a watchtower that looks like an incense burner was built in 1990 to celebrate Oman’s 20th National Day.

View over Old Muscat, Oman

View over Old Muscat
From a hillside vantage point, we look over the forts and buildings of the old city.

Two Omani women in black Burqa at the Sidab Womens Group, Muscat Oman

At the Sidab Women’s Group
A bit further up the hill, we stopped in at the Sidab Women’s Sewing Group, a poverty alleviation initiative, where we admired local textiles …

Omani coffee pot and cups, Sidab Womens Group, Muscat Oman

Kahwa at the Sidab Womens Group
… and of course, were offered coffee. In Oman, coffee – kahwa or qahwa in Arabic – is blended with saffron, rose water, and cardamon, and served with fresh dates as a ritual ‘welcome’. I loved it!

Minaret and mountains, Old Muscat, Muscat Oman

Minaret and Mountains
Back on the road, we head into Old Muscat

Al Alam Palace Gate, Old Muscat, Oman

Al Alam Palace Gate
… past the colourful gate to the old palace, …

White wall with arched entries, Old Muscat Oman

White Wall
… and past classic white-washed walls.

Al-Mirani Fort from the Corniche, Old Muscat Oman

Al-Mirani Fort
The old city is separated from the rest of modern Muscat by coastal mountains – and Portuguese walls and forts.

Colourful Nubian Ibex sculptures, Bait Al Zubair Museum, Muscat Oman

Nubian Ibex (Capra Ibex Nubiana)
Outside the Bait Al Zubair Museum, we find colourful models of the native desert-dwelling goats …

Relief Model of Old Muscat, Bait Al Zubair Museum, Oman

Relief Model
… and a model of the old city as it would have looked in 1625 when the encircling walls were finished.

Omani Khanjar, The National Museum, Oman

Omani Khanjar
The National Museum of the Sultanate of Oman was established in 2013 …

Carved Arch, The National Museum, Oman

Carved Arch
… as a showcase for the country’s cultural heritage …

Magan Boat, The National Museum, Oman

Bronze Age Magan Boat
… and history, back to the earliest settlement.

Door handle detail, The National Museum, Oman

Omani Door Handle
Beautifully carved wooden doors and their heavy ornamentation feature everywhere in the country.

Jewellery displays, The National Museum Oman

Desert Jewels – The National Museum

Muscat harbour silhouetted against a sunset, Oman

Sunset over Muscat
For a different perspective on the city, I took a sunset cruise in an old dhow (Watch this Space!). You can just see the incense burner and city fortifications against the darkening sky.

Text: Happy TravelsCertainly a culturally rich and fascinating place!

Until next time,

Happy Travels!

Photos: 20 and 26October2019

Portrait: Kara youngster against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

A Kara Youngster : Dus Village
The Kara are a beautiful people. and photographing them with the benefits of a black cloth and an off-camera flash is a real joy.

The Lower Omo Valley in south west Ethiopia is a photographer’s dream. It might be off the beaten track and hard to get to, but it is home to 16+ ethnic groups, each with their own distinctive customs, dress, and body art, so once you are there, you are spoiled for choice of subjects.

The tribal people in this region have learned that their tourism ‘value’ is in their appearance, and they generally charge visitors ‘per click’ for pictures made of them. While this is entirely fair, it removes the opportunity to make truly environmental pictures: the people in these remote villages are acutely aware of the camera, and will ‘pose’ at every opportunity.

So, if they are going to pose anyway, why not make use of the black cloths and off-camera flashes that someone has transported into the middle of the jungle!

I was comfortably lodged in the heart of Kara tribal territory on the south bank of the Omo River, at a mobile camp organised by Grand Holidays Ethiopia. The campsite was close to Dus Village, the largest of three Kara villages in Ethiopia: a half-day’s drive from power, running water, and the market town of Turmi. I was travelling with photographer Ben McRae on a Piper Mackay tour, and he and some of the other participants had brought flash units with them.

Our location gave us exceptional access to the village, and we visited a number of times, at all times of day (see: Kara Village). The Kara are known for their beautiful body- and face-paint, which they apply to each other for fun, decoration, and artistic expression – even if there are no photographers around, and even when there is no special occasion to celebrate.

Join me for some flash – and some environmental – portraits of these beautiful people.

Portrait: Kara youngster against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

Kara Youngster in Face Paint
The Kara people love their beads and face paint.

Portrait: Smiling Kara Youngster against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

Smiling Kara Youngster
With no common language, and the Kara’s serious attitudes about photography, it was hard to get a relaxed pose – so I was very happy with this gorgeous smile.

Young Kara woman being face-painted, Dus Village Ethiopia

Painting Guinea Fowl
Outside our makeshift studio, young women are helping each other get ready. Guinea-fowl spots are one of the most popular design elements.

Portrait: Kara woman in cowrie shell, beads and face paint, Dus Village Ethiopia

Cowrie Shells and Beads
Kara women love their beads. Like their Hamar cousins, they wear goatskin smocks, trimmed with cowrie shells.

Portrait: Kara woman in cowrie shell, beads and face paint, Dus Village Ethiopia

Face Paint and Ochre
They take pride in their face paint, and – also like the Hamar – they dress their hair in an ochre and fat paste.

Portrait: Kara man against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

Kara Man
There is a simple elegance in these people’s faces.

Portrait: Kara man against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

Man in Hands
The face-and-body paint styles take a variety of forms. Hand prints are a popular body-paint motif. I love that clear, direct gaze.

Portrait: Old Kara man in a feathered cap and clay face paint, Dus Village Ethiopia

Old Kara Man
The feathered clay cap this man is wearing is proof that he has made a kill in the past year or two: either of an enemy, or of a dangerous animal.

Portrait: Kara woman against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

Kara Woman in a Beaded Headdress

Portrait: Kara woman against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

Beads and Spots

Portrait: Kara woman against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

A Sideways Glance

Portrait: Kara mother and toddler, Dus Village Ethiopia

Mother and Toddler
Back outside in the village, people pose in front of their woven grass houses.

Kara youths playing soccer, Dus Village, Ethiopia

The Soccer Match
On a flat patch of dusty ground, …

Kara youths playing soccer, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Jump Shot
… a group of young men in bare feet or flip-flops …

Kara youths playing soccer, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Ball Skills
… chase an under-inflated soccer ball.

Kara youths playing ball, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Playing Ball
I can’t figure out the rules – if there are any – of the game they are playing, …

Kara youths playing ball, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Eyes on the Ball
… but there is no mistaking their skill and enthusiasm.

Kara women and toddlers in a group, face painting, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Face Painting
The afternoon draws on and people continue to gather in clusters to apply face paint.

Kara women and toddler, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Kara Mother in Corn Rows
All around the village, young mothers …

Kara women and toddler, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Kara Mother in Traditional Dress
… are happy to show off their children.

Portrait: Three young Kara men, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Young Kara Men

Kara girls in face paint, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Girls and their Instas
As the light started falling, I pulled out my Fujifilm Instax camera and – once they realised what was happening – the young women clamoured to get their own instant pictures to keep. They are so used to having their pictures ‘taken’; having them given back to them was a nice change!

I lost all my new ‘best friends’ as soon as I ran out of Instax film!

Text: Keep smilingBut, it was time to move on anyway: the young men were about to bring home the goats.

More on that later. Until then,

Keep Smiling!

Pictures: 21October2018

Basalt bricks in front of the Devils Postpile, California USA

Devils Postpile National Monument 
The regular-shaped basalt bricks tumbled all over the ground at the Devils Postpile are as impressive as the 18 metre (60 foot) ridge of columnar basalt behind them.

California’s Eastern Sierra region is a remote and vast wilderness, lightly populated and replete with extensive rugged and magnificent terrain. Sitting in the rain shadow of the Sierra Nevada, the mountains here rise steeply from the prairies and deserts to the east.

The largest industry in the Eastern Sierra is tourism: based in tiny localities and small cities, and focused on getting people into the extensive national parks, national forests, state parks, and protected wilderness areas. You could get lost for days and weeks on the back-country hiking paths and trails.

Fortunately for me, you can access some pretty uniques and remarkable places with short walks as well!

I was staying with a fellow-photography-enthusiast at her home in Mammoth Lakes, in Mono County California (see: Waters and Wildflowers). Well known as a winter skiing base, the town also provides easy access to nearby summer trails.

It was a short, early-morning drive to next-door Madera County and the Devils Postpile parking lot. From there, it’s a delightful walk into the expansive Inyo National Forest, the fabled Ansel Adams Wilderness, and the Devils Postpile National Monument. Our 8.5 km (5.3 m) part-circuit and part out-and-back walk took us to the magnificent formation of basalt columns known as the Devils Postpile (How I wished for an apostrophe and a hyphen, but that is American English for you!), leading us along a short section of  the John Muir Trail/Pacific Crest Trail before we branched off towards the very pretty Rainbow Falls

The Devils Postpile sits at 2286 m (7500 ft), which is higher than mainland Australia’s highest mountain, so the extra 230 m (758 ft) gain and loss of elevation on our walk slowed me down … as did the scenery along the way.

Join me for a walk in the High Sierras.

Devils Postpile, early morning, California USA

Devils Postpile
It’s a short walk from the carpark to the lofty, 18 m (60 ft) columns of strikingly symmetrical basalt rising above us. The Postpile faces west, and we hadn’t checked the Photographer’s Ephemeris, so of course, the sun was in our eyes and the rocks were bathed in shadow.

Devils Postpile, early morning, California USA

At the Base of the Devils Postpile
According to radiometric dating, the formation was created by a lava flow just under 100,000 years ago. It is thought that the lava that makes up the Postpile was at the bottom of the mass, allowing it to cool slowly and evenly, which gives rise to the long symmetrical columns.

Devils Postpile, early morning, California USA

Trees on the Postpile
Basalt columns are a common feature resulting from volcanos, but this is considered one of the world’s finest examples due to its hexagonal regularity and lack of horizontal joining.

Fireweed in a tangle of undergrowth, Devils Postpile, California USA

Fireweed (Chamaenerion Angustifolium)
When we leave the Postpile cliff behind, we follow the path through a tangle of undergrowth and flowers …

Jagged fallen tree trunk, Devils Postpile, California USA

Nature’s Sculpture
… and artfully sculpted fallen timbers.

Dried pine needles against a blue sky, Devils Postpile, California USA

Dried Bits against the Sky
This is an arid – and often fire-ravaged – region. Drought and the consequent rise of mountain pine beetles have also taken their toll.

Hikers in the woods, Devils Postpile, California USA

Walkers in the Woods
These are conifer forests of tall pine and fir trees.

Burned logs, Inyo National Forest, Devils Postpile, California USA

Burned Logs
The 1992 Rainbow Fire here in the Inyo National Forest was started by a lightening strike, and burned out 8000 acres of forest.

Charred tree and new growth, Inyo National Forest, Devils Postpile, California USA

Rainbow Fire Totem
Charred trees still stand as markers amid the new growth. In areas of ‘high severity fire’ the regrowth has been sparse and limited to certain species.

Detail: burned tree trunk, Inyo National Forest, Devils Postpile, California USA

Like a Burned Totem
The charred timber of this standing tree trunk is like an elaborate sculpture.

Signpost entry to Ansel Adams Wilderness, California USA

Ansel Adams Country
Photography enthusiasts know the name Ansel Adams: American landscape photographer and environmentalist. This 93,698 ha (231,533 acre) wilderness area was named for him after his death in 1984. It spans the Inyo National Forest, the Sierra National Forest, and includes nearly all of Devils Postpile National Monument.

New growth and old damage on a hill, Inyo National Forest, Devils Postpile, California USA

Fledgeling Pine
Conifers are slow-growing, so damage takes a long time to regenerate.

New growth and old damage on a hill, Inyo National Forest, Devils Postpile, California USA

Old Damage
Burned out, blown down, and/or rotting tree trunks provide animal homes and ground nutrients.

Fireweed in a tangle of undergrowth, Devils Postpile, California USA

Fireweed (Chamaenerion Angustifolium)

Middle Fork San Joaquin River, Inyo National Forest, California USA

In the Inyo National Forest
The name Inyo comes from a Native American word meaning “dwelling place of the great spirit.” As we walk along the Middle Fork San Joaquin River, I can easily imagine spirits living here.

View over the top of Rainbow Falls, Devils Postpile, California USA

Top of Rainbow Falls
After a 4 km (2.5 mi) walk, we reach the top of these very pretty 30 m (101 ft) falls.

Stony Pathway at Rainbow Falls, Devils Postpile, California USA

Stony Pathway at Rainbow Falls
In the right light, rainbows form in the spray at the bottom of the falls. We weren’t lucky enough to find any.

Hiker in the wildflowers, Rainbow Falls, Devils Postpile, California USA

Katy on the Path
Wildflowers are in bloom everywhere.

Yellow daisies at the base of a tree, Devils Postpile, California USA

Nature’s Artworks
The extreme climate leads to twisted trees and hardy flowers; …

Yellow daisies at the base of a tree, Devils Postpile, California USA

A Natural Bouquet
I think these are a type of Hymenoxys.

Pearly Everlasting closeup, Devils Postpile, California USA

Pearly Everlasting (Anaphalis margaritacea)

Horse riders advancing Inyo National Forest, California USA

Riders in the Forest
This is a shared track, …

Horse riders retreating, Inyo National Forest, California USA

On the Dusty Trail
… as we are reminded when a trail ride goes past.

Hexagonal columns of basalt at the top of the Devils Postpile, California USA

Columnar Basalt
Our return trail takes across the top of the Devils Postpile,

Tops of the hexagonal columns of basalt at the the Devils Postpile, California USA

Polygonal Shapes
… giving us a bird’s eye view of the tops of the contracted basalt columns.

Tops of the hexagonal columns of basalt at the the Devils Postpile, California USA

On Top of the Postpile
The cooled remnants of the lava flow have been carved, shaped, and polished by the powerful erosive forces of wind, water, earthquakes, and glaciers over the last 80,000 to 100,000 years.

Portrait: Forest Ranger, Devils Postpile, California USA

Ranger Michael
As we walk back down the Postpile, we come across Ranger Michael, who is explaining how to tell the difference between the two main trees in the forest: lodgepole pines (Pinus contorta) and Jeffrey pines (Pinus jeffreyi).

Fresh pine growth, Devils Postpile, California USA

Pine Needles
Unfortunately, I have forgotten which is which!

Devils Postpile, morning, California USA

Devils Postpile
We get one last (slightly better lit) look at the Postpile before returning to our car.

Text: Take only Pictures

As much as it would have been better to have done our homework, and to have explored this area in better-angled sunlight, it is better to have the sun in your eyes than not to go at all! 

And, to paraphrase Hellen Keller, if you keep your face to the sun, you’ll never see the shadows.

Keep Smiling!

Photos: 17July2013

Rotunda in Queens Park, Maryborough Australia

Rotunda in Queens Park
Queens Park in Maryborough was established in 1860, with many of the trees being planted soon after. The lace-trimmed ornamental band rotunda with its cast iron ogees was originally exhibited at the Glasgow International Exhibition in 1888. It was erected in the park in 1890, and I can easily imagine it as a setting for a Mary Poppins fantasy scene.

It was pure serendipity that lead me to spend two nights in the little city of Maryborough, in Southern Queensland, Australia.

I had spent two days on a tour of Fraser Island off Australia’s east coast (see: Living Sands and Rock), and the ferry was scheduled to return to the mainland early evening. I was heading back through Brisbane, some 300 km south, and didn’t fancy driving too far in the dark.

It was after I decided to make nearby Maryborough my stop-over that I read about the Mural Trail. I had really enjoyed hunting out the murals in the little town of Chemainus on British Colombia’s Vancouver Island some years before (see: The Little Town that Did!): so I booked an extra night to allow me a full day in the city.

The Murals of Maryborough were launched in 2015, and the Central Business District now features 37 murals and installations. They depict whimsical and serious stories from Maryborough’s colourful past as an industrial city: building naval ships, sugar-mill machinery, and railway rolling stock; and as one of Australia’s largest ports: serving as a commercial and immigration hub.

Ideally situated on what is now called the Mary River, there is evidence of human habitation in this region stretching back at least 6,000 years. Maryborough was first settled by Europeans in 1847, making it one of Queensland’s oldest and most historic cities. Known as a ‘Heritage City’, it is home to a number of fine old buildings that are listed on the Fraser Coast Heritage Register. And, for serious history buffs, the city and its surrounds is home to a number of quality museums and collections on a range of topics.

Serendipity.

Such a Mary Poppins kind of word …

And, as it happens, P. L. Travers, author of that magical book – a favourite of mine from my late-childhood – was born, as Helen Lyndon Goff, in Maryborough in 1899. She grew up in the Australian bush before going to boarding school in Sydney, and then emigrating to England at the age of 25. Although the fictional Banks family lived in Depression-era London, Travers drew a lot of inspiration from her family and her early surrounds. Tributes to this legacy live on in the city’s buildings, murals, sculptures, and even in the annual Mary Poppins festival in July.

Come with me on a hunt for some stories in art and architecture – and just a smidgen of history:

Clock tower, Maryborough City Hall, Queensland AU

Maryborough City Hall
Any walking tour of Maryborough is best started by collecting maps at the Maryborough Visitor Information Centre, located in the distinctive American-Colonial style City Hall (1908) on Kent Street. The elegant clock was added in 1935.

St Paul

St Paul’s Anglican Church
A short walk around the corner, we come to the heritage-listed church (1878) and hall (1921).

Gum tree trunk and the Maryborough Railway Station, Queensland AU

Gorgeous Gum Tree Trunk
I can’t guess at the age of this beautiful eucalyptus tree on Lennox Street, …

Maryborough Railway Station behind a tree, Queensland AU

Maryborough Railway Station
… but the elegant heritage-listed timber railway station complex behind it dates to 1882.

Electric car-charging station, Maryborough Queensland AU

Electric Charging Station
Even a city that takes pride in its heritage can look to the future!

Brave Lexie and

Brave Lexie and ‘Foxie’
– by Brian Tisdall
The first mural I find is on the wall of the Maryborough Fire Station and recognises the bravery of 12-year-old Lex Casperson. In 1927, he and his dog ‘Foxie’ saved his two brothers and a sister from a house fire.

Ellena Street Pavement fly wheel sculpture, Maryborough Queensland AU

Ellena Street Pavement Art and Sculpture
– by Susie Hansen
As a tribute to Maryborough industry, this half fly wheel that was part of the gas engine in the powerhouse of Walkers Ltd – a local engineering company that built ships and railway locomotives – is part of a street installation.

J M Monsour
The Monsour family was at the forefront of Maryborough commerce for many years. Cousins Fred and JM both built two-story shop-houses on Adelaide Street. This one, built in 1914, houses the ‘The Bee Hive’ emporium on the ground floor, and residential accommodation upstairs.

Bronze shoe sculpture, Adelaide Street, Maryborough Queensland AU

Shoes and Stays
– by Mela Cooke / April Spadina
A bronze shoe sculpture sits outside Langers Broadway Shoe Store, a family-run business for almost a century.

The Whip Cracker mural on red bricks, Maryborough Queensland AU

The Whip Cracker
– by Shanay Scarlet
Country towns love their colourful characters! Barbara Dalton was a whip-cracking part of the Dalton Family Whip Cracking Show, which performed at the local markets.

Mirror image of the Prime Minister Fisher mural, Maryborough Queensland AU

Prime Minister Fisher
– by Brian Tisdall
Queenslander and founding member of the local Labor Party, Andrew Fisher (1862-1928) served as Australia’s Prime Minister and Treasurer for three terms between 1908 and 1915. We are not looking at the mural – which is across the road – but at its reflection.

The Legends of Moonie Jarl book cover, Maryborough Library, The Legends of Moonie Jarl book cover, Maryborough Library, Queensland AU

The Legends of Moonie Jarl
– by Fiona Foley
First published in 1964, this was the first book written and illustrated by Indigenous Australians. The mural, unveiled outside the library in 2016, depicts the cover of the book of Butchulla creation stories about K’gari (Fraser Island) told and illustrated by Maryborough-born siblings Wilf Reeves and Olga Miller.

Comet Man mural and the laneway behind, Maryborough Queensland AU

Comet Man and Horsburgh Lane
– by Nigel Zschech
While scanning the western skies with binoculars, amateur Maryborough astronomer Mervyn Jones found an unnamed comet on 1 July 1967. In the laneway behind him, you can see the mural dedicated to the endangered Mary River turtle.

The Girl and the Croc mural, Maryborough Queensland AU

The Girl and the Croc
– by Dan Krause
This whimsical mural in Horburgh Lane was inspired by a photograph taken in the early 1900s of a girl sitting on a four metre crocodile. It is believed the croc was one shot in the Mary River and on display at the Iindah Sugar Plantation in 1903.

Mary Poppins crossing, Maryborough Queensland AU

Mary Poppins Crossing
On the corner of Kent and Richmond Streets, the pedestrian crossing lights are little figures of Mary Poppins,

Mary Poppins statue, , Maryborough Queensland AU

Mary Poppins Statue
– Dr Rhyl Hinwood AM
… and a statue of the nanny, as she is depicted in the books, watches over. This location was chosen because the building behind – formerly the Australian Joint Stock Bank – is where Travers Robert Goff was an unsuccessful (and, reputedly, alcoholic) bank manager and where author Helen Lyndon Goff (P.L. Travers) was born in 1899.

Old Customs House, Maryborough Queensland AU

Old Customs House
Built in 1899, this beautiful heritage-listed building with its terracotta-clad Dutch-gabled roof now houses a Portside heritage interpretative centre. On the corner opposite, you can see the quirky stainless steel, bronze, copper, and electro-mechanical match-making machine – an installation by artist Russell Anderson.

The Kanaka Memorial, Maryborough Queensland AU

The Kanaka Memorial
In the late 1850s, the Mary River region was found to be ideal for the cultivation of sugar cane. As sugar became more profitable, plantation owners too often relied on importing cheap, sometimes blackbirded, labour from islands in the South Pacific. The first South Sea Islander workers arrived in Maryborough in 1867, and before the practice was stopped in 1904, some 50,000 Kanakas passed through here. This memorial on the Mary River Parklands pays tribute to their cultural heritage, their huge contribution to local economic development, and the appalling ways in which they were treated – leading to their death rates being 400% higher than white Australian workers.

The Post Office and Hotel, Bazaar St, Maryborough Queensland AU

The Post Office (1866) and Post Office Hotel (1889)

Mary Poppins mural, Maryborough Queensland AU

Mary Poppins
– by Steve Falco
This mural depicts a number of the magical episodes that take place in the Mary Poppins books.

HealthPro Pharmacy, Maryborough Queensland AU

Colourful Pharmacy

The Dong Sisters mural, Maryborough Queensland AU

The Dong Sisters
– by Dan Krause
The daughters of Chinese migrants who came to Maryborough in search of gold in the 1870s, Ellen and Maud Dong were born in their parents’ home near here.

Part of the Dong Sisters mural, Maryborough Queensland AU

A Dong Sister
– by Dan Krause
The family turned to market gardening, and in 1915, the sisters took over the business of selling vegetables, plants and seeds to the Maryborough community.

Electricity Box painted as a genie in a turban, Maryborough Queensland AU

Electricity Box
Even the Maryborough electrical boxes have their own personalities.

Old Customs House, Maryborough Queensland AU

“Portside”
Old Customs House is so intriguing: it looks different from every angle!

Flight Commander Frank Lawrence mural Maryborough Queensland AU

Flight Commander Frank Lawrence
– by Benjamin Higgins
This mural on the side of the Maryborough Military and Colonial Museum commemorates the city’s most decorated World War II veteran.

Tubby Clayton mural, Maryborough Queensland AU

Tubby Clayton
– by Akos Juhasz
Army Chaplain, Maryborough-born Reverend Philip Thomas Byard “Tubby” Clayton co-founded Talbot House, a place of respite for Allied troops serving on the Western Front during World War I.

St Mary

St Mary’s Roman Catholic Church
The first Roman Catholic services were conducted in 1852 by a visiting Father James Hanley from Brisbane in the house of the local chief constable. The now-heritage-listed St Mary’s Roman Catholic Church was finally built on donated land between 1869 to 1872.

St Mary of the Cross
– by Patrick Phillips
Mary MacKillop was declared Australia’s first saint in 2010. In 1870, the Sisters of St Joseph – the religious order she founded – established a school and residence in Maryborough: the Catholic Church’s first formal education presence in the area.

Clock tower, Maryborough City Hall, Queensland AU

Maryborough City Hall
I end my explorations in the same place I started: at the City Hall.

There are whole chapters behind any one of these, and the many other stories illustrated around the city, and you could easily spend days exploring the richly diverse history.

Text: Happy Rambling

But, I had other places to be, so I pointed the car south, leaving Maryborough behind.

Happy Rambling!

 

Photos: 09June2019