The top end of West Virginia is about as far north as you can get and still be in the south.  You needn’t drive many miles to get from wooded, mountainous areas inhabited by tough mountain folk to genteel old towns of stone and brick buildings with iron lattice railings and faux wooden shutters. People decorate their houses according to the season (Hallowe’en at the moment) and sit in rockers on their front porches.  I could imagine shotguns and corn-cob pipes, although I confess I didn’t see any.

Stately Southern Home: Shepherdstown, WV

Hallowe'en Witch/Jack-O-Lantern and Hallowe'en/Thanksgiving Cornucopia

Old Buildings ~ Old Streets: Shepherdstown, WV

Old Buildings ~ Circa 1795 ~ Shepherdstown, WV

Old Shop Fronts and Modern Services ~ Shepherdstown

Jus' Sittin' on the Stoop ~ Shepherdstown

Obviously, new services are readily available behind the old facades, but the area maintains its symbols and its rich history.  The land here was a battleground for both the Revolutionary War and the Civil War, and so is replete with memorials and statues; battlefields and graveyards.

Patriotic Flags ~ Everywhere you Look!

Check your American Bills: the Mason's are Alive and Well

Tribute to Confederate Soldiers and a Building from 1840 : Winchester, VA

As John Denver sang: “Life is old there, older than the trees…”   The song was written at Harpers Ferry, where the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers meet and life still imitates art.  Current American arts and crafts are honoured and old buildings and history are maintained.  History lives in the “Upper Town” where people go about their business in buildings dating back to the late 1700’s. The “Lower Town” is a mix of tourist shops and preserved history: Lewis and Clark bought supplies here in 1803 before setting out on their explorations and hardy trekkers walking the 2,178 mile Appalachian Trail stop in today. Less hardy visitors, like myself, drink cappuccino and shop. Antiques are sold alongside American artisan crafts.  “…Younger than the mountains, growing like the breeze.”

History Found: Old Ford, Harpers Ferry WV

HIstory Re-Constructed: As Things were for Lewis and Clark

Fire Hose Wheel, Harpers Ferry, WV

Rail Bridge over the Potomac, Harpers Ferry, WV

Confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers, Harpers Ferry, WV

New Artisans work on Old Crafts ~ Harpers Ferry, WV

Beautiful place: almost heaven!  Take me home…  Country roads.

Happy Travels!

  • Guava - October 16, 2010 - 12:18 am

    Nice shots Ursula.

    Regarding Halloween, maybe you remember my “Witch’s Promise” from last year?………….. I have something special planned for this year too….. SLEEP WELL MY DEAR hawaaaaaahahahahahahaReplyCancel

  • Gabe - October 16, 2010 - 3:13 am

    Love the Americana feel and fall coloursReplyCancel

  • Lanfranch - January 11, 2011 - 5:57 pm

    Nice blog! I’d like to visit this part of the US sometimes… it looks so interesting.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - January 12, 2011 - 12:35 am

      Thanks for stopping by, Lanfranch. This was an amazing area! 😀ReplyCancel

  • History Of Old Ford | FordPhotosBlog.com - April 21, 2011 - 6:31 pm

    […] History Found: Old Ford, ursulasweeklywanders.com […]ReplyCancel

I had some trouble getting into the United States last week.  One of the (many) problems I had was that I didn’t know the name of the city my accommodation was in.  I had the name of the inn, the state and the website, but the immigration officer at Dullas Airport wanted to know the city. I told him it wasn’t in a city: it was in the countryside. “The whole state is countryside!” he retorted.

Turns out, he was pretty right on that score. We are sitting at the north end of the Shenandoah Valley, near Charles Town. This small city, which is still home to the Charles Town Races, was named for George Washington’s youngest brother who built a substantial home there and laid out the town itself in 1780. And there are plenty of other small, historic towns near by. But mostly, there is a lot of countryside!

Into the Woods ~ A Deer at the end of our Driveway

The Hillbrook Inn across the Bull Run Pond

The English Tudor Inn, Built in 1700s

The Last of the Roses as Autumn Weather Bites

One of the Many White Tail Deer on the 17 Acre Property

Wet Wood ~ Ready for Winter

George Washington owned the land the Inn is situated on; but then, it seems he (or his family) owned much of the state! This really is rural USA at its best: we have a horse farm next door, and the surrounding ‘suburbs’ comprise long, immaculate driveways leading to massive two-story gabled houses sitting on five acres of perfectly manicured lawns dotted with stately old trees.  I really need to get out and explore further afield, but in spite of overcast and wet weather, just rambling locally with John Denver’s songs in my head has been a joy.

Makeshift Bridge across the Creek

Neighbouring Home

Milkweed (I think! If it isn't, tell me.)

Thoroughbreds and Fillies Next Door

Curious but Timid Filly comes to Check us Out!

Autumn Sky over One of the Many Large Homes in the Neighbourhood

Today I’m off to visit Harper’s Ferry. Wishing you Happy Rambles!

  • Bryan Zanella - March 17, 2011 - 8:24 pm

    Ursula,
    What wonderful pics of our property!!!
    I hope you enjoyed your stay with us!
    -BryanReplyCancel

    • Ursula - March 18, 2011 - 1:43 am

      Sure did – what a wonderful place! And the FOOD!!!!!! Thanks for visiting the site. 🙂ReplyCancel

  • Bryan Zanella - April 1, 2011 - 12:48 am

    Your welcome! Would you mind if I put a pic or two on our website. We are adding a lot of new pages in the near future.ReplyCancel

Old Tree ~ Older Rock

This week we indulged in a quiet weekend at a charming resort in Jomtien, a beach town close to Bangkok.  You know the kind of weekend: eating and drinking punctuated by sitting on a colourful canvas chair on the beach, slathered in sunscreen, saying “Mai Ao” [“No, thank you very much! I don’t want a snakeskin belt/a massage/grilled squid/etc.”] to the veritable stream of hawkers who pass. We were treated to magnificent sunsets (and a sprinkle of rain) with our evening cocktails, but I hadn’t packed my tripod, so the few high-ISO hand-held shots I took don’t warrant sharing.

Mid-Sunday afternoon more rains approached.  Having had our fill of inactivity, we looked at the guidebooks to find somewhere close to visit and decided to explore the “Million Year Stone Park & Pattaya Crocodile Farm”.

Now, you wouldn’t think that a tourist attraction of such note would be hard work to find! We had three maps, a guide book and a GPS in the car with us. Unfortunately, in spite of the Thai map download, the GPS had no idea what we were talking about. The paper maps were not much more help; the park seemed to be somewhere in a vague roadless triangle off the major routes.  The Michelin guide, however, was quite explicit: “9km north by 3. Turn right into 3420.” We weren’t sure if they meant north of centre or north of city limits, but by the time we reached the next town 15 kilometres away, we knew we’d missed the corner. We turned around and tried again – to no avail. No “Stone Park” signs; no highway 3420 markers.

Strange Shapes ~ Carved by Time

I suppose we could have asked someone, but I wasn’t convinced that asking someone about “old rocks” would do it, and I couldn’t remember the word for “million” in Thai. Besides, the weather was lousy, so we weren’t unhappy about driving laps of the highway. We pulled another U-turn and tried again, this time via a new bypass, in case it was the reason our guide book wasn’t getting us there.  One of the things about living in a developing country is that sometimes the “-ing” overtakes you! Buildings come and go; roads morph and move…  Our guide book is over ten years old, and clearly that bypass wasn’t.

Long story short, two hours later we found the park…  thanks to: being able to read Thai, unbelievable persistence, and several more wrong turns and U-turns.  But, it was half an hour before closing and the light was going the way of the tour buses. We decided to come back the next morning on our way home. Now that we knew where it was, we thought the signposting would probably leap out at us, but it didn’t.  Many corners weren’t marked, most signs weren’t in English and we never did find a marker that said “3420”.  Such is life in Thailand… ไม่เป็นไร! Never mind.

"Million-Year Stone Park" Water and Gardens

The park is nice, the stones and the bonsai gardens are beautiful, and the crocodile show would be exciting if you’d never seen one before. (I think I need to do a separate post one day just on animals.) What really amazed me, however, was the workers.  Anyone who has read my first post knows I am impressed by how hard people in Thailand (and other Asian countries) work.  “Hard Yakka”, for anyone who doesn’t know, is “hard work” in Australian vernacular. “Yakka” alone is “hard work” in the Jagera Aboriginal language of Moreton Bay.  It is the best way to describe the hot, heavy manual labour at the park.  Now, you wouldn’t think that million-year-old rocks would be hard work to maintain, but clearly, as you will see from the pictures, it is a big job!

Wet Cement + Hot Weather = Need for Speed

Cement Truck at Work

Bare Feet and Smiles ~ Don't you Love the Protective Clothing?

Buckets on the Move

Here Comes the Boss!

Bonsai and Rocks

I hope your work is not too hot and heavy!

"Raise Your Eyes to the Skies" Traditional Mon Temple

As I said last week, Kanchanaburi offers much, much more than just the infamous Death Railway. I was going to share some waterfall shots from our most recent trip and from last year, but I’ll save the nature for some other time in favour of some glimpses into the past, distant past, and living-the-past-in-the-present.

It amazes me how many ethnic groups still live in semi-isolated communities scattered all over Thailand and it’s regional neighbours.  Some are displaced and in effect stateless, and spend their whole lives in refugee camps.  Some, like the Long-Neck Karen, are protected by the Thai government because of their potential as a tourist attraction.  Others, like the Mon from Myanmar who have settled in the Sai Yok area of Kanchanaburi, are able to live their traditional lifestyle, albeit somewhat dependent on tourist dollars from the visitors who buy produce and crafts or stay to watch traditional dances.

A Golden Stone, Like the Famous one in Myanmar, Sits atop a Sacred Relic

Kanchanaburi is, and probably always has been, border territory.  Not far down the River Kwai Noi from the Mon village are the ruins of a laterite village-temple complex believed to have been a 12th century trading and defence outpost of the Khmer Singh empire.  Called Muang Singh (Lion City), the city was important enough to be mentioned in inscriptions dating to the reign of the Angkor King Jayavarman VII. Reclamation work started on the site in 1974, and it’s an elegant, quietly crumbling monument set on 640 rai (about 100 hectares) of well-maintained land. The gentle rains on the day we visited probably only added to the reverent hush.

Nearby, a Neolithic (3,000 BC) burial site has been uncovered and is open to view.  The story goes that it was one of the builders of the Death Railway, a Dutch POW, who first found evidence of Neolithic settlement in this area.  The Ban Kao Museum houses a number of artefacts unearthed from those times.

Yellow Oleander in the Prasat Muang Singh Carpark

Fresh Frangipani and Crumbling Angkor Empire Laterite

Twelfth Century Prasart Muang Singh

Old Laterite and Young Greens

Khmer Botthisattva

Fallen Hot-Pink Frangipani

Frangipani ~ Okay, so I Like Flowers!

Sacred Khmer Head in the Muang Singh Museum

5000 Year-Old Neolithic Remains

I guess the moral of the story is: You are dead a long time!  In the meantime, travel well.  

  • Signe Westerberg - September 24, 2010 - 5:34 am

    as always… beautiful… back in BK?ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - September 24, 2010 - 2:29 pm

      Thanks, Signe! Yes, back in BKK… until tomorrow! Weekend on the beach. 😀ReplyCancel

THAT Bridge... over the River Kwai

I love trains and train journeys.  There is something hypnotic about the rhythmic clack of the wheels on the tracks.  And who can resist waving at the people on trains as they pass?

Kanchanaburi, about 3 hours west of Bangkok (on a good day), is home to what must be one of the most poignant stretches of rail track in the world: what remains of the infamous Burmese Railway. The Death Railway as it is known locally (actually, one signpost reads “Dead Railway”) was built, at great cost of life, by Allied prisoners of war as a Japanese supply line between Bangkok and Rangoon.

“About 180,000 Asian labourers and 60,000 Allied prisoners of war (POWs) worked on the railway. Of these, around 90,000 Asian labourers and 16,000 Allied POWs died as a direct result of the project. The dead POWs included 6,318 British personnel, 2,815Australians, 2,490 Dutch, about 356 Americans and a smaller number of Canadians.[1]Kanchanaburi is home to many reminders of this grim legacy.  More about that some other time…

After the Japanese surrender, about four kilometers of track on the Thai-Burma border was pulled up and never replaced.  These days, about 130 kms of track remains on the Thai side and an old train runs up and down carrying tourists.

We rode the train many years ago, and it is a pleasant trip through the sugar cane fields and bamboo forests.  This time we drove, which actually presented much more of a challenge, as sign posting to both accessible bits of track disappears and you are expected to choose roads based on intuition!

The last station on the track at Nam Tok is in dense jungle, with the Bilauk Taung Range bordering Myanmar on one side and the muddy River Kwai Noi on the other.  Cool caves dot the mountainside while everywhere else the heat radiates without mercy.

หยุด ~ STOP ~ Train Ahead!

"Take Care... Do not tripon bolts or railspikes."

Teak Wooden Trestles form a Viaduct High over the River

Trestles Rising through the Jungle

Number 53

Curves of the Death Railway and River Kwai Noi

Here She Comes!

Tourists Riding the Rails

Clackety-Clack, Clackety-Clack, Clackety-Clack ...

Wave and Smile!

There She Goes!

Bolts on the Track

Spikes on the Track

If there is a Cave, there will be a Buddha! Kra Sae Cave, Tham Kra Sae

Tourist on the Rails, Outside Kra Sae Cave

Of course, Kanchanaburi offers much, much more than just the railway!  We visit annually for the Mizuno River Kwai International Half  and Mini Marathon and always find something different to do. This area of rugged mountains bordering Myanmar has all manner of interesting attractions, from prehistoric artefacts and ancient buildings to wilderness areas and magnificent waterfalls. The rivers provide ample scope for boating and rafting, and there are caves of all types to visit.  There is birdwatching and elephant riding, and even a “Tiger Temple” where you can get up close and personal to the big cats.   But, I’ll save some of that for next week…

  • Signe Westerberg - September 17, 2010 - 12:53 am

    I love this new format…keep em coming!

    love to you both

    SigneReplyCancel

    • Ursula - September 17, 2010 - 11:20 am

      Thanks, Signe! Talk to you soon. xReplyCancel

  • Guava - September 17, 2010 - 8:43 am

    Great photos, it is unusual to see the train at this spot from the outside, most pics on internet seem to be taken from inside whilst going over the viaduct.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - September 17, 2010 - 11:24 am

      Thanks, Guava! We were lucky with the train times. 🙂ReplyCancel

  • Kevin Dowie - September 17, 2010 - 10:09 am

    Nice article Ursula, I do like the detail shots.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - September 17, 2010 - 11:20 am

      Hi Kevin!
      I’m glad the system is back and you could get in. 🙂ReplyCancel

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