White Apple Blossoms with the rocky face of Pech de Thauze (Pod Bugarach) in the background.

Pic de Bugarach, Apple Blossoms and Blue Sky

If you want to bear witness to what happens as the world comes to an end, then (the story goes) Pech de Thauze, more commonly called Pic de Bugarach, is the place to be.

There are a lot of doomsday predictions around at the moment. The one that concerns this story is not the May 21, 2011 day of earthquakes and judgement and subsequent rapture for faithful Christians, as prophesized by evangelist Harold Camping, which passed without a tremor or a murmer. Nor is it his revised October 21, 2011 ‘end of the world’ prediction.

The date that we were talking about over dinner and copious drinks at Accueil au Village, Cubières sur Cinoble, was the December 21, 2012 ‘Armageddon’ which coincides with the end of a 5,125-year-long cycle in the Mesoamerican Long Count calendar – the Maya or Mayan calendar.

To be fair to the Mayans, there is no indication they thought that the end of this cycle was a bad thing. The doomsday predictions seem to be a more recent combinatation of new-age theories, pseudo-science, and hoax mixed in with interpretations of religious eschatology. Whatever the reasons behind the predictions, international hysteria is causing a lot of local consternation.

Apparently Bugarach, which can be seen from from Cubières, is no ordinary mountain. For one thing, it is a geological anomoly: the top of the mountain is millions of years older than the bottom. In other words, Bugarach is upside down! Although I assume this to be a fact, after hours on the internet, I could find no actual verification. What is verifiable is that Bugarach, which stands at 1230m, is the highest of the Corbières Mountains, and its limestone is riddled with caves.

Secondly, the mountain is said to have “an enormous energy”, both magnetic and spiritual. I couldn’t verify the belief that Nostradamus thought the mountain’s “vibrations” useful in his work, or that Jules Verne found the entrance to an inner world, which he fictionalized in “A Journey to the Centre of the Earth”. Then there are the stories that the mountain hides the holy grail, and possibly even the body of Jesus, or that it houses aliens. “The internet abounds with tales of the late President François Mitterrand being curiously heliported onto the peak, of mysterious digs conducted by the Nazis and later Mossad, the Israeli secret services…. A visit to Bugarach is said to have inspired Steven Spielberg in his film, Close Encounters of the Third Kind – although the actual mountain he used is Devil’s Tower in Wyoming.”

The current story, which is causing headaches for long-time locals, is the belief that at world’s end, December 21 next year, the aliens residing in the mountain will leave, airlifting a few lucky humans with them. According to one source, dozens of UFOers camped out atop the mountain on December 31, 1999, to see in the previous end-of-the-world at the dawn of the new millennium. While (clearly) that ‘end’ did not happen, this has not dampened doomsday enthusiasm, and the tiny villages of Bugarach, with less than 200 residents, and neighbouring Cubières, which is of similar size, are attracting a new kind of visitor. Property prices have been driven up, and the current infastructure can’t cope with what may become a massive influx of people. The Telegraph (UK) interviewed the mayor of Bugarach and numerous other locals before posting two items (1 and 2) one year in advance of the predicted 2012 Armageddon. A month later, the story was picked up by the NY Times. As our host Françoise, former mayor of Cubières, told us, this has only agravated the problem of alternate-lifestylers moving into the area but not wanting to be part of the local ‘community.’

The mountain may well be magic, but the only ‘energy’ we experienced as we sat around the Cubières dinner table on the eve of our walk around Bugarach was the buzz of local wine, home-cooked food, and lively conversation with an international group of visitors and residents. But, we did pay special attention to the mountain, which was in our sights most of the next day.

Trip Notes: Day 4: Cubières sur Cinoble to Sougraigne

Our walk today is in the very heart of the Cathar country as we walk between the Fenouillèdes and the Corbières. We traverse the Bugarach massif and the Salso Col before arriving in the beautiful small village of Sougraigne.

Points of Interest: Chestnut Forest and Bugarach Village

15kms. 5hrs. +250m -605m

If you are going to circumnavigate half a magic mountain, what better place to start than the local church. L’Abbaye de Cubières sur Cinoble, which was redesigned and rebuilt over the ruins of a ninth century abby, is atypical in that, unlike most European churches, it is oriented on a north-south, rather than an east-west axis.

Composite: Coloured statues: 1) Jesus 2) Joan of Arc 3) Madonna and Child

The Local Church, L'Abbaye de Cubières sur Cinoble, has its own Colourful Stories ~ Including Statues of Jesus, Joan d'Arc, and the The Madonna

Composite: Cubières sur Cinoble  and the trail to Pic de Bugarach

Looking Through the Tiny Town of Cubières sur Cinoble to the Magic Mountain

Close-up: Ivy and lichen on a tree trunk

Into the Woods ~ Lichen and Ivy

View: Camps-sur-l

Approaching the Village of Camps-sur-l'Agly

Street Scene, Camps-sur-l

Ivy-Clad Ruins and Modern Village Housing, Camps-sur-l'Agly

Rusty Hand-Pump in front of wooden garage doors, Camps-sur-l

Rusty Pump at the Doors, Camps-sur-l'Agly ~ Presumably the Nailed Goats' Feet Ward off Evil

Composite street scenes: Front door draped in purple flowers, Stone-walled garden

Spring Flowers Everywhere: Front Doors ~ Back Gardens, Camps-sur-l'Agly

Small church bell tower, Camps-sur-l

Every Small Town a Bell ~ Camps-sur-l'Agly

Although the spring sun still held little warmth, the skies were blue and the winds had reduced somewhat, making for a pleasant walk winding through the countryside on stony tracks and small paved roads. We passed large farm holdings and small barnyards, eating our copious packed lunch in the lee of Bugarach and under the watchful eye of the local chickens and sheep.

Through Wire Fencing: Chickens in the Farmyard

The Chickens in the Barnyard Come Running to Look at Us

Cluster of Apple Blossom

Apple Blossom

Spring growth in front of Bugarach, from Mas Pastressis

The Hamlet of Pastressis, in the Lee of Bugarach

Sheep and a lamb, The Hamlet of Pastressis

Sheep Watch us Before Running Off, The Hamlet of Pastressis

Bugarach from The Col de Linas

Bugarach from The Col de Linas ~ Traces of Cigar Clouds in the Sky (Many Scientist Attribute UFO Sightings to these Types of Cloud Formations)

If Bugarach has a magnetic force, it clearly didn’t work for us. Somewhere after Col de Linas, we lost the trail and ended up working our way down toward the town following goat tracks. A couple of French hikers passed us by, heading the same general direction. When I asked if we were on the path to Bugarach, they refused to confirm it until I pronounced it correctly. You have to love the French, their pursed [y] sound – and their sense of humour! Leaving the town, we lost the track again – not really our fault this time, as all the trees with our way-markers had been cut down by loggers.

Five-petal White Wild Flowers on dark green grass

Wild Flowers in the Grass

Rusty wheel axle in the grass

Still Life Found: Rusty Bits of Abandoned Machinery

Dirt path, green foliage and view of Pech de Bugarach

Last Views of Pech de Bugarach, before we Cross Over the Col de la Pourteille

Wild Violets on the Forest Floor

Wild Violets on the Forest Floor

View of the village of Sougraine from the hill

Sougraigne ~ Our Home for the Next Two Nights

Beech Leaves against the sky

New Growth: Beech Leaves Overhead

Close-up: Trunk of a Beech Tree

Trunk of a Beech Tree

Pine needles, pine cones, beech and oak leaves on the Forest Floor

Pine, Beech and Oak on The Forest Floor

The way down into Sougraigne was much longer than I remembered from our last visit… But once we got there, the hotel was as delightful as we recalled and the food was superb:

Entrée: Croustillants au chèvre en confit d’oignon

To your healthPlat: Côte de porc fermier, Bouchée aux champignons et légumes du jour

Frommage

Dessert: Carré aux pommes

Vin compris

Now that is magic! There could be no better place for an extra night and a much needed rest. ‘Till next time!

 

  • Signe Westerberg - June 9, 2011 - 11:07 pm

    I love the background info you give us, another magic tour… thank you… be well guys, see you both soon I hope.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - June 10, 2011 - 4:00 am

      Glad you enjoyed it, Signe. Always glad to have your company!ReplyCancel

  • gabe - June 10, 2011 - 8:41 am

    Second the comments. Brings back good memories and always educationalReplyCancel

  • Siempre Su Amor - June 16, 2011 - 5:22 pm

    A quick google search explained that a now dormant volcano beside the mountain pushed the large hillside, a rocky mass, up on top of the hill creating a mountain. The magnetism in the area they speak of is more than likely electro-magnetism that will be picked up by equipment only since the water in the area there is slightly radio active, not toxic though, likely because Nazi Fourth Reich hid there for some time after WWII doing who knows what in secret, Hitler documents say they working on Nuclear bomb but it still hasn’t been found. This could also explain the mysterious findings in the cave tunnels.

    No secrets here, just a nice little town. Thanks for the pics.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - June 16, 2011 - 6:16 pm

      Hi Siempre Su Amor!

      Thanks for your visit ~ and the info. 🙂ReplyCancel

  • […] purportedly predicting the end of the world on a date which coincides with the end of the Mayan Calendar (21/12/2012), many people are watching global natural disasters and political unrest with pessimistic […]ReplyCancel

  • Patrick Gallagher - November 7, 2012 - 2:45 am

    Very cool, Ursula. I feel like I have been there myself now.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - November 7, 2012 - 2:47 am

      Thanks, Patrick. So glad you enjoyed the post! 🙂ReplyCancel

  • […] the US have their bunkers ready; just as well, really, as French authorities are banning access to Bugarach, the magic mountain and safe haven in the Pyrenees. I’ll spend the evening sitting on my balcony, come what […]ReplyCancel

Stem and leaves of a snow gum tree against the snow

Twisted Snow Gum (Eucalyptus pauciflora) in a Bed of Snow ~ Charlotte's Pass

The snows came early this year.

It was only mid-May, and already the tops of the Australian Alps were covered with white. Even down in Jindabyne (934 metres) where we were staying, wet flakes settled briefly on our noses before puddling into cold water. Late one afternoon we tried to drive up to Charlotte Pass, at the top of Kosciuszko Road, only to be turned back by a nice National Parks employee who laughed at our Queensland-plated rental car and asked us where our snow chains were. We had to be satisfied with a view-stop at the Waste Point Lookout and a drive up to Threadbo, where, in spite of grey skies and light flurries, the road was still open.

Plaque: "The Members of the Snowy Workforce", agains Lake Jindabyne

Against the Backdrop of Lake Jindabyne, at the Waste Point Lookout, is a Plaque Commemorating the Workers who Lost Lives Building the Snowy Hydro-Electric Scheme

Two emu on the roadside

Junior and Senior Emu (Dromaius novaehollandiae), Alpine Way, NSW

We had tried to get snow chains, but winter rentals are a seasonal business, and with the ski season not due to open for another three or four weeks, none of the rental shops were operating. Snows fell in the Australian Alps in April this year, which is unseasonably early – although snow can fall any time from May to October, significant falls before June (when the ski season usually opens) are unusual. Australia is a relatively flat, dry continent with the alpine area comprising a minute (about 0.15%) proportion of the total landmass. The country’s highest point, Mount Kosciuszko, at 2228 meters, has a bare peak in summer, and the alpine area only hangs onto the smallest patches of snow, tucked into shady hollows, between winters.

 Kosciuszko Road with a dusting of snow either side

Through the Windscreen and into the Snowy Mountains

The next morning we tried again and this time succeeded, albeit slowly and carefully, in making it up through the slush, snow and ice to Charlotte Pass and the fabulously gnarled snow gums that line the aptly named Snow Gums Boardwalk.

Snow Gums (Eucalyptus pauciflora) are amazing trees. Living between 1500m and the tree line, they have adapted themselves to the extreme conditions of the alpine slopes. Curled against the wind, the snow gums have a bark that changes colour in response to climactic conditions and external branches that slope down to allow the snow to fall off. As one writer puts it: “it is their twisted shapes that makes you stand in awe and feel humbled, moved, and inspired by their resilience and determination”.

The colourful bark of a snow gum against the snow

A Colourful Snow Gum

Close-up of Snow Gum bark

The Smooth Pale Bark of the Snow Gum Peels in Patches ~ The Colours Change with the Barometric Pressure

Red bark of a Snow Gum against snowy Mt Townsend

The Red Bark of a Snow Gum Stands in Contrast Against Snowy Mt Townsend

Snow covered road, Australia

Snow Gums and Mountains ~ The Road at Charlotte Pass

Strands of grass in the snow

The Last Grasses

Mountain Mint partially covered in snow

Like Other Kosciuszko Shrubs, Fragrant Mountain Mint Withstands Being Buried Every Year

Ice and snow around Spencers Creek, Kosciuszko

Spencers Creek and the Mountains

Stone and Grass in the Snow

Still Life ~ Stone and Snow

The plants and animals that live here, many of which live nowhere else, are well adapted to the snowy conditions. They are, however, vulnerable to the already-measurable effects of climate change, and it is likely that the next decades will see significantly changes in this unique landscape.

Snow and ice on water and rock, Spencers Creek, Australia

Ice and Snow, Spencers Creek

sun-flare over snow and water, Spencers Creek

Afternoon Light, Spencers Creek

Text: Safe Travels! Ursula

Many species will probably be lost entirely within our lifetime.

It’s a shame, isn’t it?

Until next time…

 

 

  • Guava - June 3, 2011 - 9:24 pm

    Great stuff Ursula. That Snow Gum bark is amazing, such wonderful texture and colours.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - June 5, 2011 - 10:25 am

      Thanks for stopping in, ฝรั่ง. Yes – Snow Gums are amazing trees. 😀ReplyCancel

  • Signe Westerberg - June 6, 2011 - 5:51 am

    this is a trip I can make, and should… the tragedy that some of these amazing species could be lost in such a short period of time when we still have pollies discussing whether or not climate change is valid is awful, or unbelieveable depending on where you stand on the matter… they say that the koala is on borrowed time, between disease, climate changes and habitat loss we really do need to STOP…THINK… ACT…before it’s too late.

    thanks for the share, those gums are magic!ReplyCancel

  • […] That is one of the reasons why I like to get away to the Australian Alps. […]ReplyCancel

Small modern sculpture of the Madonna and Child, The Fort, Duilhac

Madonna and Child, L'Église St Michel, Duilhac

Religious expression, or more precisely, the expression of the Roman Catholic faith, is in evidence everywhere in France. Every town has at least one church, with a bell and a cross. On our recent walk along the Cathar Trail, we came across crucifixes, large and small, at every turn.

Composite: Stone Fort and Ornate Iron Cross

The Ancient Fortified Centre is the Heart of the Village ~ The Iron Mission Cross (1855) ~ Duilhac

Of course, religious expression is not always peaceful – there is often an uncomfortable tension between war and worship. The images above are from the small town of Duilhac-sous-Peyrepertuse, which as the name suggests, sits under (sous) the ruined fortress of Peyrepertuse. Called a Châteaux cathares (Cathar castle), Peyrepertuse was a temporary haven for the persecuted Cathars during the Albigensian Crusade in the early 1200s, and so stands as a symbol of their eradiacation in the name of religion. Another of the «cinq fils de Carcassonne», the ’Five Sons of Carcassonne’, the Château de Peyrepertuse was originally built by the kings of Aragon in the 11th Century as part of their border defence system.

The climb to the magnificent  800 meter-high ruins was to be the high point (pardon the pun!) of Day Three of our randonnée pyrénéenne’.

Trip Notes:   Day 3:   Duilhac to Cubières sur Cinoble

We walk up to the Château of Peyrepertuse, through the unforgettable Galamus Gorges and continue to Cubières sur Cinoble to overnight at the Accueil au Village.

Points of interest: Peyrepertuse Fortress, Galamus Gorges, St Antoine de Galamus Hermitage, and Cubières Village.

15 kms. 5 hrs. Altitude gain/descent: +250m -340m

The trip notes make the day sound like a walk in the park. We thought we’d have a relatively easy time of it for two reasons: 1) unlike the day of our last visit in 2008, there was no sign of rain; and 2) our walk to Cubière would be 4km shorter than the walk to Bouchard, which we had done two years earlier. However, the time, distance and altitude estimates in the notes don’t include the steep walk up to the castle and back or the time spent exploring the extensive ruins.

Rocks and castle ruins above spring shrubs

Peyrepertuse ~ "Citadelle du Vertige" ~ Citadel of Vertigo

Shrubs with acorn-like casing

From a Single Acorn...

White snail on a tree branch

Snails on the Hill

Budding holly leaves

Spring Holly

Road into Peyrepertuse

The young English couple walking the same direction as us asked if the ruins were worth the extra work, to which my answer was an emphatic “yes!” I’m not alone in thinking Peyrepertuse is one of the most beautiful of the Corbière castles. The ruins, blending into the landscape like an organic outgrowth, are spectacularly situated on the rocky bluffs of the Upper Corbières. It is no wonder these fortresses were considered impregnable; although this one has been bought and sold by rulers and kings, it has never been successfully assailed. Walking over the grounds, I couldn’t help but marvel in awe at what people were able to build and wonder at how difficult life must have been here in the Middle Ages.

Peyrepertuse on the Ridge

"Peyrepertuse": From the Ancient Occitan for "Pierre Percée" or Pierced Rock

Stone Arched Entry to the Castle of Peyrepertuse

Arched Stone Entry to the Castle of Peyrepertuse

The Ruins of Peyrepertuse

Inside Peyrepertuse

View down over lower Peyrepertuse

Le Bas-Château / The Lower Castle Resembling the Prow of a Ship, Dates to the 11th Century

As amazing as Peyrepertuse is, I find it discouraging to descend from it, tired, sore and wind-blown, only to realise that it is already well past noon and we still have most of our 15km walk in front of us!

We battled winds for an hour before finding sufficient shelter to allow us a lunch stop, and then continued through farmlands, grasslands and forests before reaching the highway that would take us to Galamus Gorges.

small six-petal blue-purlple flower

Flowers on the Trail

Fresh green holly

More Spring Holly

Brown calf and mother cow in a green field

"Here's looking at you, kid!" A calf eyes me on Col de la Corbasse.

It was late afternoon when we reached the start of Galamus Gorges and the parking lot for visitors, and it was tempting to by-pass it rather than walk the extra descent and ascent in and out of the gorge to visit the Hermitage.

Dwellings built into cliff walls

The Hermitage of Galamus was built in the 15th Century by the Franciscans in Honour of Saint Antoine, the Founder of Christian Monastic Traditions

But, the descent is worth it. The Hermitage was open and the hermit, though reclusive, was in. We visited the chapel, with its tributes to Saint Antoine, the first Christian hermit (born 251 in Egypt), and bought “hermit cookies”, made by hand with tasty lemon zest by the current resident-caretaker of the site, before tunnelling through the mountain and climbing up to re-join the long, narrow, windy road along the gorge itself.

Smal plaques and tributes to Saint Antoine, Galamus

"Merci" ~ "Thank You" ~ Thanks Given to Saint Antoine the Hermit

Bell and rope, Galamus Hermitage

Every Hermitage a Bell! Galamus Hermitage.

Sculpture of Christ standing on the day of ascension with a woman adoring him and another (blindfolded) seeing only herself.

"Le Christ et L'Humanité" ~ Christ and the People ~ Galamus

WInding

Hold onto your Hat! Walking up the Gorge is as Risky as it is Windy. Cars Hope not to Meet any Oncoming Traffic as they can Barely Pass.

Horses in a field, Cubières sur Cinoble

Like a Fairy Tale ~ Horses in a Field Outside Cubières sur Cinoble.

To your health

Once we crossed a bridge out of the gorge and saw horses in a field of apple and cherry blossom, we knew we were almost ‘home’ for the night. Our evening glass of muscat could not be far away! Like horses sensing the barn, we picked up our pace, found our accommodation, and looked forward to drinks and stories over the dinner table.

‘Till next time, à votre santé ~ to your health!

 

 

  • gabe - May 26, 2011 - 11:04 pm

    Your commentary comes alive. Well doneReplyCancel

  • Signe Westerberg - May 26, 2011 - 11:14 pm

    WOW… what an amazing journey, somewhat magical, except perhaps for that road, walking albeit steep still sounds better than trying to pass another vehicle. I am constantly amazed at the places they put dwellings and castles… between rocks, on edges of mountains… and of course the workmanship, although it appears they didn’t haveto look far for rocks ;-DReplyCancel

    • Ursula - May 27, 2011 - 12:17 am

      Yes – no shortage of rocks!
      Many thanks for the comments. 😀ReplyCancel

Château d

Vines, Garrigue and Castles: This is the Corbières

I can’t help but love a country that is passionate about food, wine and walking. While ‘walking’ may not be the first thing that comes to mind when you think of France, the French take their walking trails seriously. The country is criss-crossed by roughly 177,030 kilometres of marked, mapped and well-maintained paths.

The Institut Géographique National (IGN), an official government agency, produces detailed maps in varying scales, and the Féderation Française de la Randonnée Pédestre (FFRP), or ‘French Long Distance Walking Association’, comprised of over 2000 local clubs, maintains the tracks and publishes guide books. With a map, a compass and some notes, it is possible to plan a walking tour (une randonnée) from village to village, staying in local hotels and bed-and-breakfasts, almost anywhere in the country.

Last month, my husband and I spent two weeks eating, drinking and walking our way across a tiny portion (only 0.1%!) of this vast network of trails: we traversed about 200 kilometres of south-eastern France, following the Sentier Cathare (the Cathar Way) through the Pyrenees from Tuchan in Langudoc-Roussillon to Foix in the Midi-Pyrénées. We did it the easy way: we used an agent. We had walking notes in English; our accommodation was pre-booked; and the majority of our baggage was transported for us. Even so, the walk lived up to its ‘moderately strenuous’ rating, with a lot of daily ups and downs. It is an area of natural beauty with a poignant history. Over the next few weeks, I hope to share some of this magnificent region with you.

Trip Notes: Day 1: Arrive in the pretty town of Tuchan for overnight at Hostellerie du Mont Tauch.

I wouldn’t have called Tuchan a ‘pretty town’, but it is in a picturesque location: in the Corbières – a wild, mountainous region where ‘garrigue’, that wonderfully fragrant Mediterranean scrubland, alternates with vineyards and rocky outcrops. Because of our previous experience of arriving on a Monday when the hotel is closed, I made sure we would arrive on a Sunday instead. Train from Clermont-Ferrand to Nîmes; overnight in Nîmes; train from Nîmes to Narbonne; taxi from Narbonne to Tuchan. Easy, right? We packed ourselves a lunch just in case! We arrived early afternoon, with enough time before dinner to consult our ‘Green Guide’ and our host, and set off for a walk/run to the nearest castle: the Château d’Aguilar. Originally built in 1021, the more recent ruins of this pentagonal fortification date back to the 13th century.  One one of the « cinq fils de Carcassonne », the ‘Five Sons of Carcassonne’, the castle and its occupants fell to the notorious Simon de Montfort in 1210.

Stone wall - Ruins of Château d

The Ruins of Château d'Aguilar ~ Tuchan, Les Corbières

Château d'Aguilar is on a relatively low (321 AMSL) 'pog' or outcrop, but affords a nice view.

Scrub and Castle ruins, Château d

The garrigue has taken over the castle ruins ~ Château d'Aquilar

Two people in the ruins of Château d

Wild winds don't deter visitors to the ruins ~ Château d'Aquilar, Tuchan

Spring in the red wine vines

Vines d'Appellation Fitou ~ Tuchan, Les Corbières

Wild Roses

Wild Roses on the Trail

Trip Notes:Day 2: Short transfer to Padern.

Today we walk from the Château of Padern through contrasting landscapes to the fortress of Queribus and from there we continue to Duilhac-sous-Peyrepertuse for overnight at The Hostellerie du Vieux Moulin.

Points of interest: Padern Castle, ruins of Mollet church, Château de Quéribus, and Cucugnan village.

16 kms. 5 hrs. Altitude gain/descent: +436m -260m

Sounds easy enough, right? But, you have to add in the actual climb to the castle and the time you might want to spend exploring it; in our case, an additional two hours. Nor do the notes factor in the wind: cold, biting 20 kilometre/hour gusts straight off the snow fields higher up in the Pyrenees; winds that threatened to blow us off hills and made a mockery of the clear spring sunshine.

We shared the transfer with a young couple from England who, like us, were setting off to do the whole walk. For them, the day was a piece of cake. Me, well, I hadn’t realised quite how much age and living the good life had caught up with me! I was a little slow on the up-hills, and, with hip and knee problems, a lot slow on the downhills.

View: Chapelle St Roch

Blue Spring Skies at the top of our First Little Hill ~ Chapelle St Roch ~ Padern

Château de Padern: Dating back to 1026, Padern belonged to l’abbaye Lagrasse from 1283- 1579. Reconstructed in the 17th century, it now sits in ruins atop a crumbling rocky slope.

Stone cottage with tall evergreen trees.

"Turn left at the beehives." Cottages and Countryside.

Graceful brick ruins

The Graceful Ruins of the Prieuré de Molhet

Lanscape scenery: Pyrenees

View Back Over the Hills: Prieuré de Molhet on the First Hill, Château de Peyrepertuse in the Background

Green succulents on a rocky ground

Succulents

Landscape: Château de Quéribus against snow-covered mountains

Snow in the Pyrénées ~ Château de Quéribus Looming on the Hill

The story of the Cathar people is tragic one. They lived across much of Europe from the 11th to 13th century – particularly in the Languedoc, France and in northern Italy. They are believed to have had a dualistic concept of life and to have adhered to an ascetic form of early Christian practice, but historical reports regarding their origins and their actual beliefs are patchy and contradictory.  They had the support of many local lords and landholders, and it is likely that they were seen as a political (rather than religious) threat to the hegemony of the King and his church.

What is not in dispute is that they were labelled heretics by the Catholic Church, and wiped out of France by the Inquisition and the Albigensian Crusade.

Steep stone staircase

Stairs up into the Château de Quéribus ~ Hang onto the sides, lest the wind blow you away!

Looking up to Quéribus, which blends in with the rocks it sits on

First mentioned in 1020, the castle of Quéribus sits on the highest peak for miles around, blending in with its surrounds.

Blue sky through a brick wall, Quéribus

A Patch of Blue, Quéribus

Stone walls, Quéribus

Can you Imagine the Floor Plan? Stone Walls, Quéribus

Dark spiral stone staircase, Quéribus

How did they build these things?? Stone Spiral Staircase, Quéribus

The so-called Cathar Castles were built, not by the Cathars themselves, but by the French kings to protect their territories from invasion from the south. The Cathars, under the pressure of persecution, retreated to these fortified cities before being annihilated.

The Château de Quéribus, another of the “Five Sons of Carcassonne”, is often called their last stronghold, as many Cathars retreated there after the fall of Montségur. It is thought that most slipped away to other Cathar regions in 1255, in advance of the French army that was dispatched to deal with them.

The Cathars have been romanticised in literature from the 19th century onwards, and it is now hard to see them in their Mediaeval context. Climbing up and down the steps of these castles, however, you can try to imagine the rigours of life in these aeries.

View of Cucugnan

Charming Cucugnan ~ Nestled Amid the Spring Vines and Green Hills

From the Château de Quéribus, it’s a steep, rocky descent into the nearby village of Cucugnan, where we were finally able to stop for a very late lunch. Then off again on the long, picturesque, winding walk to Duilhac for our accommodation, evening meal, and some famous Corbières red wine – a suitable reward for a long day’s walk!

Windmill of Cucugnan against a blue sky

Immortalised by Alphonse Daudet: the Windmill of Cucugnan

Young figs against a blue sky

Wild Figs Grow Everywhere Along the Sides of the Trails

View of the château de Peyrepertuse

High up (800m) on the Distant Mountain, Le Château de Peyrepertuse Summons us Home...

Giant Meringues in a basket

Giant Meringues in the Bakery in Duilhac-sous-Peyrepertuse ~ We've Arrived!

To your health  Until next time ~ ‘santé!’ ~ to your health!

  • gabe - May 19, 2011 - 5:10 am

    Great. Brings back good memoriesReplyCancel

  • Signe Westerberg - May 20, 2011 - 6:58 am

    outstanding as always… loved catching up with you both this week, looking forward to next time!ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - May 25, 2011 - 12:05 am

      You too. 🙂ReplyCancel

Golden Buddha image, Wat Thang Sai, Prachuapkhirikhan

Buddha ~ Wat Thang Sai

When we want to escape Bangkok, one of our favourite destinations is Prachuap Khiri Khan. Once you have broken free of the Bangkok traffic (and that can take a while!), it is an easy 3 hour drive south to a relatively quiet area with magic mountains and beautiful beaches.

The province’s name means the ‘land of many mountains’, which it is, if you consider the border regions with Myanmar, but none of the mountains is very high: Khao Luang, at 1494 metres, is the highest. Still, with altitudes varying from 0 – 1200 meters above sea level, the terrain is sufficiently interesting. The coast is dotted with pretty fishing villages and the inland has its share of National Parks. And, as is the case with most of Thailand, almost every hill, on the coastal side at least, has a temple and/or a buddha image on top of it.

With its golden spires and red tiled roofs, Wat Thang Sai sits like a little girl’s fairy-tale dream castle above the little fishing village of Ban Krut.

Golden Spires above frangipani blossoms: Wat Thang Sai, Bangsaphan

The Spires of Wat Thang Sai rise out of the Frangipani Blossoms like a Fairy-Tale Dream Castle

The wide naga staircase up to Wat Thang Sai

To Reach the Wat (Temple), You Have to Climb the Steep Naga (King Cobra-like Deity) Stairs

Seated Golden Buddha, Wat Thang Sai

Golden Buddha, Wat Thang Sai (วัดทางสาย)

Composite: Wat Thang Sai Exterior and Guardian Giant (Yaak)

Cotton Candy Colours ~ Guardian Giant (Yaak : ยักษ์)

Golden Reclining Buddha, Wat Thang Sai

Reclining Buddha, Wat Thang Sai

Two young Thai girls with gold leaf on their foreheads smile for the camera.

Always Ready to be Photographed! Two young Girls with Precious Gold Leaf on their Foreheads

Golden seated buddha overlooking blue water

Buddha Watching Over the Gulf of Thailand, Wat Thang Sai

I’ve mentioned before that Prachuap is the narrowest province in Thailand, running between the mountainous border with Myanmar and the beaches along the Bay of Thailand. Dan Singkhon is a border crossing at the narrowest point of Thailand, and so is easily accessible form the highway. Although only Thais and Burmese can cross here, it is interesting to have a look at what the orchid vendors have on sale. And, the coffee is good: for some reason, Thai border crossings sell some of the best coffee in Thailand, and this one is no exception.

Burmese Orchid Sellers sitting on the ground Waiting for Customers

Waiting for Customers, Dan Singkhon Border Crossing Markets

Composite: Portraits of Burmese Youths; Male and Female with tanakha or "bangnakha" (แป้งนาคา) Powder

Burmese Youngsters at the Border ~ With Tanakha or "Bangnakha" (แป้งนาคา) on their Faces

Carved and painted wooden birds, Thailand

Lucky Birds, Dan Singkhon Border Crossing Markets

Composite: Orchids

Orchids for Sale, Dan Singkhon, Prachuap Khiri Khan

Landscape: Stump decorated with ribbons

Tributes to the Tree Spirits, Dan Singkhon, Prachuap Khiri Khan

You never have to drive far in Thailand before there is another hill to climb. Khao Chong Krajok in the town centre of Prachuap Khiri Khan promises (and delivers) great views over the Gulf of Thailand. Before tackling the 396 steps up, we bought bags of corn on the cob –  not for us, but to placate the resident monkey hords who live on the hill. The monkeys seemed to belong to at least two distinct groups, and were indulging in some sort of turf warfare while we were there, racing back and forth at each other with lots of snarling and baring of teeth… Not at all the “sociable monkeys” that were written up in the guide book.

Steps up to Khao Chong Krajok เขาช่องกระจก, Prachuap Khiri Khan

More Steps! 396 Steps up to the Shrine atop Khao Chong Krajok, Prachuap Khiri Khan

Shrine Atop Khao Chong Krajok, Wat Thammikaram Worawihan Below

Pigeons on a rail overlooking Prachuap Khiri Khan

Pigeon's Eye View of the Bay of Thailand, Prachuap Khiri Khan

Monkey at Khao Chong Krachok, overlooking the Bay of Thailand, Prachuap Khiri Khan

One of the Many Monkeys at Khao Chong Krachok, Prachuap Khiri Khan

View Over Phrachuap Khiri Khan from Khao Chong Krajok (เขาช่องกระจก)

View Over Phrachuap Khiri Khan from Khao Chong Krajok (เขาช่องกระจก)

Composite: steep stairs and Thai wat

Steps Down from Khao Chong Krajok ~ Wat Thammikaram Worawihan

Thailand is a nation of “grazers” and you are never far from food – depending, of course, what you like to eat. Seafood is cheap and fresh all along the long Prachuap coastline. We also found tiny fried frogs, and a full range of insects, from larvae to full-grown. Not exactly my  cup of tea, but extremely popular with the locals. We satisfied ourselves with more mundane, but equally fresh, stir-fried vegetables with noodles before continuing on the road north to return home.

Fried Chrysalis ~ Thai delicacy

Popular Thai Delicacies in the Prachuap Khiri Khan Market: Fried Chrysalis

Fried Cicadas: Thai Food

Popular Thai Delicacies in the Prachuap Khiri Khan Market: Fried Cicadas

Sunset in a Car rear-view Mirror

The Evening Drive Home...

Text: Happy Travels

 

Enjoy your next escape!

 

  • gabe gajdatdy - May 12, 2011 - 3:00 pm

    Great scenery & colours. Reminders of our wide ranging experiences. Love itReplyCancel

  • Signe Westerberg - May 13, 2011 - 12:16 am

    Love the smiling faces on the children and the orchid vendors…not so excited about fried bugs… the fresh seafood however sounds nice…another lovely insight into an amazing country, thanks for the shareReplyCancel

    • Ursula - May 14, 2011 - 3:20 am

      While I have once (for the sake of politeness) eaten “ant eggs”, I have managed to by-pass all other bugs. 🙂ReplyCancel

  • Ai French - June 25, 2011 - 2:53 am

    Wow… Ursula, your photos all are stunning. Two years ago we went to the temple in BanKrud also. Your gorgeous photos remind us of our best time with nature beach, people, and places.

    I would like to have your permission to paint something from your pictures. I hope to get to show you some result soon.

    AiReplyCancel

    • Ursula - June 25, 2011 - 4:18 am

      Hi Ai,

      I’m so glad you like the pictures. It’s a magical spot, isn’t it? We’ve stayed down there a few times, and I’d love to go back.
      You are always welcome to paint my pictures – I love all your paintings and you could only make my photos look better. I have many more from the area – some of them are probably on my Flickr site, though I get behind, so I’m not sure.

      Your Blog site is fantastic! What lovely, clean design!! I guess that is the beauty of actually understanding computers. 🙂

      UrsulaReplyCancel

  • […] the Khmer Rouge years when other foods were scarce, fried insects are also popular in Thailand (see “Buddhas, Bugs and the Burmese Border”) and other parts of […]ReplyCancel

  • Phil Alexander - January 26, 2012 - 7:16 pm

    Great pictures. I was thinking of heading that way in a few weeks….Any hotel suggestions…cheap and cheerful?ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - January 27, 2012 - 2:24 am

      Hi Phil,
      Thanks for visiting! We always stay at the Keeree Waree Seaside Villa & Spa, Prachuap Khiri Khan; not really cheap, but very nice. Their website seems to be defunct, but they are listed with all the hotel-finders. There are plenty of other places around, and I imagine it would be no problem to simple drive the coast and stop where the fancy takes you! 🙂ReplyCancel

  • Guava - March 8, 2012 - 10:16 am

    Some great work here Ursula. Particularly like the children shots (^____^)ReplyCancel