Battambang is Cambodia’s second largest city. Of course, when you consider that the whole country has a population of less than 15 million, it is not so surprising that this “city” is only about 250,000 people.
As small as it is, Battambang, which is located on the Sangker River (Stung Sangkae), has always been the trade hub of the northwest. Established under the Khmer empire in the 11th century, it was remodelled by the French during their colonial rule, and the buildings still show evidence of both traditions.
The legendary Khmer King Kranhoung holds the stick with which he quelled rebellions in the area.
I read somewhere that the buildings of Battambang survived the Khmer Rouge regime so well because Pol Pot had headquarters in the region: whatever the reason, this charming little city stands in contrast to the rice fields and traditional crafts and cottage industries in the villages surrounding it.
Leave the city and you are launched directly into “the past”.
The flowers in an open window of a wooden Cambodian house welcome us to the traditions of the past.
No indoor electricity makes for dark interiors which contrast starkly with the white-heat of a Cambodian morning.
Simple wooden catches secure the heavy doors.
Light sneaks in at odd angles ~ catching bamboo matting and cotton cushions.
The proud owner of the house bids us farewell.
I was on a day trip that started at Battambang’s morning markets and took us through the Fish Paste “Factory” before culminating at the ancient Khmer ruins of Wat Ek Phnom. After our walk through the wooden Cambodian house, we visited a site where they make the large clay pots that are used to collect and store rainwater.
Scooping clay for the pots.
It is hot, tiring work making the large pots that are needed at every home.
The work-place is a social place, and extended family, neighbours and friends hang around.
Bring your baby to work: there is always someone to look after the little one.
This child is not quite sure what to make of all the strangers with cameras in her midst.
The principal potter smiles as she takes a break from her labours.
Back on the road, and onto the next village...
... where they make the best sticky-rice-and-red-bean snacks.
A woman takes a break from cutting lengths of bamboo for roasting sticky rice.
The bamboo canisters are trimmed and tidied before being filled and then cooked over a fire.
Gran keeps an eye on things ~
~ and is ready to share a laugh.
A smiling sticky-rice seller doesn't seem to mind that our group are not buying very much.
This photo series marks my final post from the Cambodian Photo Tour I participated in last July under the guidance of Karl Grobl, Gavin Gough, Marco Ryan and Matt Brandon. So, it seems only fitting that I include their portrait as part of this set. (Matt had already returned home, so is absent from the picture.)
Marco Ryan, Gavin Gough and Karl Grobl pose for us all.
I think you can see from the photo that they are great fun.
They are also brilliant photographers. It was a wonderfully organised and most enjoyable trip. For me, it was also an extremely fruitful one: this is my fourteenth post using only photos from those two weeks.
Thanks for the trip down Memory Lane, Ursula. Your photo selection summed it up well. Makes me want to get a big serving of sticky rice for breakfast. Happy trails.ReplyCancel
Yes, the smiles of the Cambodian people, with their hard lives and tragic history, are humbling! So pleased you could join me, Trish! And, yes, Signe – I miss them too.ReplyCancel
Tricia Bates -May 11, 2012 - 7:35 am
Beautiful photos Ursula, what a good looking people they are, I loved Grans smile..ReplyCancel
dietmut -May 11, 2012 - 6:43 pm
a marvelous series Ursula. I’ve enjoyed again. After I’ve seen your pictures I want to go back to Cambodia and make my trip again. I have been there in 2002 (Laos + Cambodia).
Nice weekend, DietmutReplyCancel
Boats off Bang Rak Beach, Mermaid Resort, Koh Samui
White coral sands, emerald green seas, copious sunshine and fresh, briny salt air: truly a perfect three days. A little more wind would have been nice, especially as we were trying to sail, but really – you can’t have everything!
Whenever we are on one of Thailand’s many islands, we try to spend some time on the water: whether that be a romantic sunset cruise, a busy island- and beach-hopping trip on a speedboat, a slow snorkelling trip on one of the fishing boats outfitted for tourists, a kayak paddle through limestone caves, or a quiet sail around one of the many bays. On our most recent trip to Koh Samui in the Gulf of Thailand, we decided to practice our nascent sailing skills, and chartered a small (26′ Mac Gregor) sailboat and skipper for three days.
Our experiences of boats and skippers in Thailand have been patchy: we’ve sailed with some excellent and knowledgeable people, young and older, from around the world. But we’ve also had trips where the dinghy has been lost, the motor has refused to work, the water has run out and the food has spoilt. We’ve slept aboard in stiflingly hot berths over noisy motors or under dripping hatches where we fight off mosquitos. So, I was really pleased when I found out that Armin Kundke (Kunta), the owner-operator of Samui Ocean Sports & Yacht Charter, rather than one of his staff, was to be our sailing and island guide. I’ve no doubt that the staff are excellent, but it’s always better to deal with the boss!
The Samui archipelago must be one of the safest, most pleasant places to sail: the surrounding Gulf ensures that the waves virtually never exceed ten feet in height, the waters are warm enough for swimming and clear enough that you can easily see the coral reefs and other underwater obstacles, and a safe, secluded shelter is never far away. Ideal for us. And the dearth of wind just meant more time for me to take pictures.
Skipper Kunta keeps a watchful eye as the helmsman steers a course.
With our dinghy firmly in tow, we leave the Big Buddha and Koh Samui behind us.
After only two hours on the water, the coast of Koh Phangan is within reach.
Even with low winds, we reached our first coral reef and snorkel-spot off Haad Rin Nok in less than two hours. After a splash around in the water, we climbed back aboard our boat, the Viva 2, for the short cruise around the next point before anchoring at our lunch destination.
The waters of Koh Samui and Koh Phangan are quiet, giving a feeling of peace.
Our tattered flag waves as we leave Laem Ta To (Koh Phangan) behind.
One of Thailand's most iconic spots: the wooden walkway on Haad Yuan, Koh Phangan.
Thai food is always fresh and tasty; at the Bamboo Hut, Haad Yuan, it is served up with a peerless view.
The locals are pretty chilled-out; the living is easy on Haad Yuan.
Visitors lounge on beach chairs on a postcard-perfect beach. Haad Yuan, Koh Phangan.
The rocks take on beautiful shapes: I thought this looked like an elephant bathing.
Long afternoon shadows on the sands of Haad Yao.
Almost deserted ~ Haad Yao in the afternoon.
Walk with me... Haad Yao
The beautiful lines and finish of the Naga make us feel very rough and small by comparison!
Low afternoon light falls on the rocky islands of the east coast of Koh Phangan.
A backpacker haven, Koh Phangan attracts a lot of budget travellers who come in from the mainland on the regular ferry runs. It featured in the 1996 novel “The Beach” (although the movie of the same name was filmed on Koh Phi Phi, quite some distance away) and is probably best known for its riotous all-night Full Moon parties which draw young Westerners to the island in over-crowded boat-loads.
So, it was a pleasant surprise to see quiet beach after quiet beach on the less-populated east coast as we sailed north, and to find charming little resorts nestled into the hillsides. For the most part, big-money developments haven’t made it here yet, and the parts of the island we saw retain the beach-castaway feel – but with the modern comforts of hot water, air conditioning, and wifi.
At Haad Than Sadet, where we stayed overnight in modest bungalows, we had the added bonus of a superb breakfast – an absolute treat in Thailand where “American Breakfast” is the one meal that small “resorts” generally ruin – before setting sail and motor again for points north.
A tiny swallow catches a lift in our shrouds as we head north.
Low-lying waters between Haad Mae Haad and Koh Ma.
Cleaning the Floats
Anchored in Mae Haad Bay
I had a long chat with Chai, a local who has fished these waters for 20+ years. He introduced me to WindGURU, an internet site designed for wind- and kite-surfers, etc. to predict weather conditions.
Little treasure: nestled in on the corner of a beach massage table is the owner's grand daughter.
As we head back to Ao Thong Nai Pan Yai for the night, heavily laden fishing boats head out.
The winds die and the sun lowers, so we chug back to harbour.
On our third morning, after another excellent breakfast at the Dolphin Bungalows, we set off south for a short walk and jungle swim in COLD water before returning to Koh Samui.
A favourite location for generations of Thai Kings, the waterfalls of Than Sadet are a perfect place to cool off.
A white dog joins us on our visit to the upper falls.
The beach chairs of Haad Than Sadet sit empty.
Sails
Almost abstract: Tatters and Tails
Riding home.
Shackles and Bits
Samui in sight.
What a perfect place!
We’ll be back one day ~ hopefully with a bit more wind.
WOW…Magic and how Beautiful. I can only imagine living in such an idyllic location, those houses above Haad Than Sadet are amazing and to think of that view on your doorstep every day is what dreams are made of, a boat to sail the local waters can’t imagine anything more.ReplyCancel
Dear Ursula and Gabe,
thank you so much for the good reviews, really apreciate and had a great time with you on this cruise! Super nice Blog you made there with wonderful pictures! hope you come sailing soon again, there is a lot more out there to explore!
all the best
KuntaReplyCancel
If you are in need a break from too-much-computer-time, let me recommend zip lining in the jungle as an afternoon diversion.
We are in Koh Samui, in the Gulf of Thailand, at the moment. If you are a regular visitor to this space, you will know I have a love-hate relationship with this delightful little island. Once again we are visiting with a long list of jobs, appointments and “to-do’s”. But, we always make sure to take some time out to go somewhere new or try something different.
So, last Sunday, while an international group of elite athletes were running, swimming and cycling their way around the perimeter of the island as part of the International Samui Island Triathlon, we were swinging through the tree-tops in the heart of the island’s rain forest.
Clearly, I didn’t take the picture on the left, which you can tell because I am in it; while I carried my camera across most of the cable crossings, I didn’t attempt to use it while in flight. But, I’ve included this shot because it so succinctly tells you what I thought of the two hours we spent in the trees. It was fun!
The brochure calls it: “The experience of a lifetime!!” I wouldn’t go quite that far, but it was fun. You learn to take self-promotion with a grain of salt in Thailand – well, anywhere, really. When the brochure states that an adventure is: “Completely safe” and “Fully insured” (or – more commonly: “Includes accidental insurance” – which is not terribly comforting!), this assumes that you arrive there in one piece in the first place. The Canopy Adventures advertises a “4×4 safari to the location” and a “short nature trek” as part of the package. What this really means is that you will rattle over a steep dirt road of caverns and gullies that even the 4WD struggles with before climbing up a rickety staircase with questionable bannisters to arrive at the start of your adventure.
Up the jungle path ~ mind the steps!
The central office is where you sign your waver forms before collecting your gear.
Overhead, we can see the last group coming back.
One of the staff opts for the upside-down delivery.
A helper returns with the harnesses.
Perhaps this is the short "nature trek?"
Young "Bird" gives us the thumbs up when we finally arrive, panting and sweating, at the top.
Nat has worked for the company for eight years, and clearly loves his job.
Nat models the harness...
and shows us the correct hand positions.
Petzl Tandem Speed Pulley
Nat smiles as he runs the cable.
Nat shows off his balance.
It always surprises me how much of the over-developed island is still undeveloped forest.
A view of Secret Falls from one of the platforms.
"Watch for the missing step!"
Above our heads, wild bees sway on the trunk of a tropical tree.
Nat shows us how it is really done.
And Nat arrives - upside-down and still smiling!
Out of the harness - whew!
After swinging through the tree-tops, we visit Secret Falls.
Nat relaxes between canopy clients.
Large spiders and their small companions are all around.
Time to go! Follow the ropes...
... down the hill.
Down
It was a great afternoon, and I look forward to doing it again some time.
eine schöne sportive Serie Ursula. Ich habe dies auch gesehen in Costa Rica, habe es selbst aber nicht gemacht (leider geht das nicht mehr) Schöne Grüsse, DietmutReplyCancel
Hi Dietmut,
Thanks for your visit! We have seen these in other parts of Thailand too (never been to COsta Rica) but this was our first chance to try it. Very safe, but I felt the muscles in my arms a little the next day. 🙂ReplyCancel
File this one under: “Not-so-pretty” pictures, and “Jobs I’m glad I don’t have to do.”
Just outside Battambang, Cambodia, there is a huge, warehouse-like building where fish-paste is made. You can imagine it, can’t you? Hot, dark, damp, and – yes – smelly. Surprisingly, this place is a fairly routine stop on the day-trip circuits. It certainly gives the visitor an insight into local lifestyles and the work that goes into “simple” meals: fish sauce and fish paste are absolutely essential ingredients in many dishes in this part of the world and sit as condiment staples on most tables.
Phsar Prohok (The Fish Paste Market) is certainly NOT the sort of place I would have sought out for myself! I don’t usually even eat fish. But, this stop was pre-arranged. It was all part of a tuk-tuk tour of Battambang’s surrounds – cultural villages and ancient temples – with a number of keen photographers, under the guidance of Karl Grobl, Gavin Gough and Marco Ryan.
Not surprisingly, the first thing I noticed (after the smell) was fish drying in the sunshine.
Many people at the the "factory" work for themselves. They work long hours ~ but they are always prepared to have a rest, of a chat, or some time out.
Clay pots, wooden beams and wicker baskets are scattered throughout the workspace.
Plastic buckets of briny, fragrant fish pieces are scattered all around.
Almost abstract: Fish gills.
People are often cautious of the "foreigner" at first...
... but it's not usually long before my camera and I are rewarded with a smile.
Making the fish paste is a slow, labour intensive process. Many different varieties of fresh fish arrive and are cleaned, chopped and sun-dried or otherwise treated before being smoked or soaked. Large wooden, stone or steel vats are filled with bits of fish mixed with herbs spices, and heaven-only-knows what else, and sit quietly fermenting in the shaded alleys of the factory/market. These pungent smelling stews are occasionally stirred with large wooden paddles, then pounded with a wooden plunger before being forked into bags for weighing and marketing.
Still life found: Fish-paste containers and the wooden plunger used in the vats.
Where there is fish, there is bound to be a cat!
Although this woman was wearing a mask, there was not a hairnet or pair of gloves in sight.
After stirring and mashing, fermented fish paste ~
~ is forked into bags for weighing.
More fish of a smaller variety ~ I guess the rust adds to the flavour!
Sorting through dried fish pieces.
Dried fish pieces.
Keeping the books.
Tying up the bags ~ notice the old green scales behind.
Wicker baskets lying outside the fish-paste factory.
It was actually quite interesting, and is worth a wander through. Still, I was happy that we didn’t stay too long.
And, I’m very happy NOT to be the one working there!
Mmmm, rust as a flavouring! I travelled there several years ago, I’m tempted to go back. Lovely people in spite of the country’s wretched history. Interesting photo series Ursula, thanks for enduring the smells! 🙂ReplyCancel
WOW… I love eating fish, however only eat it fresh and rarely use fish sauces etc… so glad now I tell you.
Great photos as always and interesting to see how the other 2/3rds live, and their willingness to offer a smile when a camera is produced. Thanks as always.ReplyCancel
Moss and lichen make their homes on the piles of tumbled stones, trees grow up and through fallen buildings, holding walls together with their roots, light and shadow play across the whole scene.
Wat Ek Phnom, just outside Battambang, may not be the best known of the Angkor ruins, but it is a popular spot for Cambodians to pay their respects and to picnic. And after a day of smiling ’till my face hurt while taking people-pictures, I found the ruins a wonderful sanctuary of quiet and calm.
Richly decorated building bricks lie in a tumbled heap.
Khmer visitor to Wat Ek Phnom sit among the ruins.
One of the beauty of these more remote sites is that you are free to clamber over the rubble and through the remains, unhindered by scaffolding or warning signs.
Looking out the doorway...
From the old ruins ~ to the new Wat.
As with elsewhere in Cambodia, the modern practice of animist traditions is maintained in the form of colourful spirit houses.
The new Wat Ek Phnom is on the same site.
Mythical roosters decorate the banisters of the new wat.
It's as if the young monks just sit around, waiting for the light to fall and the tourists with cameras to come...
The giant Buddha at Wat Ek Phnom looked finished against the incoming weather.
Standing watch.
Life on the ground: a butterfly in the cosmos.
Buddha in the clouds : Wat Ek Phnom
There is an afternoon storm coming - time to leave Wat Ek Phnom.
Truly, the quiet before the storm! As the tropical clouds rolled in with amazing speed, we clambered into our tuk-tuks, hoping to make it back to the hotel safe and dry.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
I think you can see from the photo that they are great fun.
It was a great afternoon, and I look forward to doing it again some time.
It was actually quite interesting, and is worth a wander through. Still, I was happy that we didn’t stay too long.
Truly, the quiet before the storm! As the tropical clouds rolled in with amazing speed, we clambered into our tuk-tuks, hoping to make it back to the hotel safe and dry.
Thanks for the trip down Memory Lane, Ursula. Your photo selection summed it up well. Makes me want to get a big serving of sticky rice for breakfast. Happy trails.
It was a joy travelling with you, Melissa! We have to do it again sometime. 😀
A nice ending to Cambodia
I think I”ll miss Cambodia… there have been some amazing shots and some sensational smiles.
Yes, the smiles of the Cambodian people, with their hard lives and tragic history, are humbling! So pleased you could join me, Trish! And, yes, Signe – I miss them too.
Beautiful photos Ursula, what a good looking people they are, I loved Grans smile..
a marvelous series Ursula. I’ve enjoyed again. After I’ve seen your pictures I want to go back to Cambodia and make my trip again. I have been there in 2002 (Laos + Cambodia).
Nice weekend, Dietmut