Morning on the Beach. Ang Thong, Koh Samui, 15 June 2009.
We are having property management problems yet again.
Our little holiday cottage, which sits perched on a quiet beach in Koh Samui, Thailand, has been orphaned once more. The situation is not as serious as it was 18 months ago, but it is still distressing to try to deal with agents and cleaners and bills when we are a couple of oceans and continents away. We keep thinking we should off-load our tiny white elephant.
After all, Koh Samui is far from perfect!
It sits in the Bay of Thailand, where the beaches collect all the flotsam that passing freighters and fishing boats can offer. Over the years, the hillsides have been overdeveloped with condos and resorts, exacerbating preexisting problems with regular flooding. Chrome and glass shopping complexes have gone up everywhere, with apparent disregard for the lack of infrastructure around them. The financial proceeds from the various development projects go directly to the mainland, and it seems as if none of it comes back to improve island roads, water, or electricity. There is a brand new, expanded International Airport – but once you are out of the car park, your life and that of your vehicle are in the hands of the fates. The roads are narrow, congested, in disrepair, and often under water. Getting from the airport to anywhere else can take an eternity.
So, why would you bother?
Breakfast with a View From our balcony, we watch the morning ferry coming into Na Thon Pier, 13 June 2009.
A quick look at a couple of old photos (above and below) might give you a clue. Once you are out of the main resort towns and off the patchy main road that circumnavigates the island, everything is quiet and down to earth. Local people farm the land and fish in the sea. Going through some old albums and the remaining pictures from our last trip cheered me up, and reminded me why we persist in trying to hang on to our island escape.
Low Tide It can be very quiet on our beach! 13 Jun 2009.
The Cliff Each visit to Samui, we drive around the island to enjoy lunch with a superb view, 22 August 2011.
Palms on the Waterfront 13 June 2009.
Derelict Spirit House 20 April 2012 (iPhone)
Iguana All sorts of lizards and geckos hang around our cottage, 19 April 2012.
The last time we were on Koh Samui, the island was playing host to an international Triathlon. During the cycling leg, under a searing sun, we watched as the competitors breezed up our hill from their start at Nathon, many smiling for the camera.
Triathelete, still smiling under the midday sun, 22 April 12.
White-hot, but still smiling, 22 April 2012.
Cycling up long, hot hills was well beyond my energy levels! Although we did pass several delightful days sailing around Koh Phangan and spent one afternoon zip-lining through the jungle canopy, most of our time was occupied in more everyday pursuits like browsing the evening markets. One afternoon, I met with a friend for a walk through her neighbourhood, where we could have been light-years from the modern world.
Buffalo Travel a short distance away from the main road, and you are in true Thai countryside, 24 April 2012.
Bananas Fresh from the tree to the table, 24 April 2012.
Pigs One yard houses pig pens; we assume these animals are slated for the local market, 24 April 2012.
Helping Mum Off a small street in Mae Nam, a young boy helps mum with the cooking.
Old Man with a Story In the shade of a shelter, an elder tells his stories, 24 April 2012.
Sharing My walking companion shares a photo she has made of the older Thai.
Every neighbourhood has a temple…
… and every temple has several Buddhas.
“When I Die” A long row of stupas guards the ashes of neighbours past, 24 April 2012.
Temple Cats This temple houses countless sick and homeless cats and kittens, 24 April 2012.
Chinese Dragons Not far away, a Chinese Temple stands in ornate contrast to its Thai counterpart, Mae Nam.
Offerings Basket of gold trinkets in the Chinese Buddhist temple, Mae Nam, 24 April 2012.
As we walked past the same Chinese temple that I had photographed after dark a few nights before, I reflected on one of Samui’s true simple pleasures: relatively inexpensive, fabulous fresh food, served up al fresco, and accompanied by glorious sunset skies.
Temple Sunset Night skies over the Chinese Temple, Mae Nam,19 April 2012.
Sunset View from our outdoor dinner table, Ang Thong, Koh Samui, 18 April 2012 (iPhone4S).
Night Fishing People on the beach, collecting small animals, Ang Thong,18 April 2012.
View from Dr Frogs Night view over Bo Phut from the hill in Chaweng Noi, 22 August 2011.
Blue Velvet Quiet seas and an inky sky make for calm dining, Maret, Koh Samui, 14 June 2009.
It is these simple pleasures that keep us coming back. We still have hopes of retiring there one day…
IF we ever slow down and IF we can keep the place managed in the mean time.
Nice series of shots, Ursula. Although I tend to agree with your assessment of the current situation there. I was always a regular visitor to the Island, and spent months at a time there, my brother has lived on Samui for over 20 years. But my last visit was around 4 years ago and I doubt very much if I will return. My brother is planning to move his business to another location, maybe even onto the mainland, as he is not enjoying the Island life anymore (the last power cut with days without electricity being the final straw) 🙁ReplyCancel
rand carter -January 31, 2013 - 7:38 pm
Thanks for the nice photos Ursula. I met my wife on Koh Samui 8 years ago. We still enjoy the island, but are dismayed with the excessive 5 star hotel constructions.
We have found that Koh Chang has not, as yet, suffered the fates of Phuket or Samui. We will consider living there when we move back to Thailand.
Samui certainly has its challenges; that last power cut was something!! Still, Thailand has many beautiful places – you just have to look harder these days.
After the Bath A Burmese woman and her child pause on a muddy riverbank so they can have their picture taken.
I’ve said it before: the hospitality, friendliness – and general willingness to be be followed around and photographed – of people in small communities off-the-beaten-track, amazes me.
Coming into Mandalay Green fields and the muddy Ayeyarwady River below.
The sun was barely up as we descended over the Mandalay region last September, landing at that beautiful, modern facility in the middle of nowhere: the brand new Mandalay International Airport in Tada-U. Finished in 2000 at a cost of US$150 million, the airport is thirty-five kilometres south of Mandalay, and so necessitated the building of new roads to the city. Wikipedia suggests the whole enterprise was designed to turn the country into an Asian hub for tourism and business. Other sources have whispered that the building of the airport was intended to advantage a powerful general whose lands are located in the area.
Of course, as soon as you are off the modern “expressway”, you are plunged back into villages where water is pumped and carried by hand and electricity is a foreign concept. What a contrast!
Into the Village Sometimes the “visitors” out-number the locals!
We were ten photo-tour participants, under the able leadership of Karl Grobl and local guide MM. In a village as small as this one outside Amarapura in the Mandalay region, we were at risk of swamping the local population. In spite of this, villagers stopped to smile, or simply ignored us and went about their daily business.
Water Carrier
A Smiling Welcome
Bath Time
Women Bathing
Baling
Still Life: Boats
Ferry Man
Portrait of a Burmese Family As I was taking a picture of a proud dad and mum with their daughter, grandma snuck into the shot.
Old Woman on the Riverbank
A local man takes a break.
Portrait: Cow I love these Asian cows with their gentle floppy ears.
At the Village Pump
Precious Water
Tomorrow’s Dinner?
Through the Window It’s already white-hot outside, but little light enters inside to the breakfast table.
The Kitchen Not a great photo, but an illustration of life’s challenges – imagine making dinner here every night!
A Boy and his Chillies
Just a Boy
Honking Road Traffic
Village Elder
Man at the Gate
“Say Good Bye to the Visitors”
Before long, we were back in our air-conditioned bus and driving north, and the villagers could go back to their work: pumping and carrying water, plowing the fields behind a bullock, tending the chickens and geese, rowing the boats on the river –
What a contrast; multi million dollar airports with multi million dollar infrastructure but the locals are struggling. I hope that the new Burmese openness leads to better living standards for all.ReplyCancel
Gabe …Life upside down, we really do get things wrong sometimes, The beautiful smiles on the faces of these people is so enchanting.ReplyCancel
michael carter -February 15, 2013 - 11:08 am
Ursula, thanks for posting this. It gives a feeling of being there, although I’ve never been to Mandalay. I was in Yangon 2 weeks ago. What a long way Myanmar has to come.
And I love the slideshow at the top. The pic of the Eiffel tower and the people bathing in the river, silhouetted with the reflection on the water – stick in my mind 😉ReplyCancel
Hi Michael,
I’m glad you liked the post. Isn’t Myanmar wonderful? I thoroughly enjoyed my two weeks there, More posts to come: watch this space! 😉
Sorry we didn’t catch up – maybe next time you are in Aus.:-)ReplyCancel
Roosevelt Arch Yellowstone’s North Entrance, backlit by morning sun.
“You will need a bare minimum of three days to see the sights along the Yellowstone road system,” says the Yellowstone Visitors Guide.
They are not exaggerating!
The Guide goes on to say: “Only 3% of Yellowstone’s visitors ever venture more than 100 yards from the road! Getting out of your car and taking even a short walk will show you what Yellowstone is all about – explore a thermal area, take photographs of the breath-taking scenery, and/or a new wildflower. Everyone should visit Old Faithful, but after watching the geyser, head out to one of the lesser known boardwalks to wait for your favorite geyser to explode.”
Although we had only a short visit, we did, of course, visit Old Faithful, taking the time to walk to the overlook, and to visit other geysers in the area. We also walked around the Artists Paint Pots and Mammoth Hot Springs – and we marvelled at them all. But what amazed me even more, was how varied and beautiful the landscape was, just from the roadways. Even from the comfort of your car, there is so much scenery and wildlife to be seen.
Each day, we entered the park from the north, coming through the Roosevelt Arch before winding our way slowly to the day’s destination – taking in the sights along the way.
Golden Gate The first road was built through the Golden Gate (so called because of the yellow hue of the rocks in the area) in 1884-85. The current road is still windy, but much safer.
Fisherman The colours are subtle on the Central Plateau, as a fly fisherman waits for a bite.
Our First Bison He’s rather scruffy looking, but he was our first bison sighting.
“Chimping” A family checks their bison pictures as they walk away from him.
Firehole River
White Waters, Firehole River.
Osprey, Firehole River Road.
Log Jam, Firehole River.
Yellow Wildflowers, Firehole River.
Rushing Water, Firehole River.
American Bison in the Woods
Bison dotted over the grasslands of Hayden Valley.
A Wapiti Buck watches us.
Large Wapiti (Cervus canadensis) grazing in rich grasslands.
Bison on the Move
On the Road ~ Evening Light.
Ancient (45-50 million years old) petrified redwood tree, Lost Lake trailhead.
Canyon Walls and Yellowstone River, Yellowstone’s Grand Canyon.
Walking the Canyon
Osprey in the updrafts of the Grand Canyon.
Rock pinnacles at the top of the waterfall give Tower Falls its name.
Bison Group
Give Way ~ Large Male Crossing!
Delicate creatures: Butterflies, Sulphur Caldron
Sulphur Caldron
Mud Pots and Spindly Trees The area around Sulphur Caldron has very little ground water.
We watched from the safety of the road as a Black Bear sauntered across the grasslands …
… and without pausing to check his reflection, went straight across a small lake.
Exiting East Too soon we had to leave the park, driving east through the Shoshone National Forest towards Cody.
Yellowstone’s landscape changes with every bend in the road. Of course, it changes with every season, as well. The guidebook is right: three days is barely enough! A friend of mine makes a point of trying to visit the park every year, and I can understand the appeal; as we drove out, we were already plotting a way to come back one day.
Seaman’s Hut A mountain hut built in memory of W. Laurie Seaman and Evan Hayes, who died in a blizzard in 1928. Summit Walk, Etheridge Range, 30 December 2012.
There can be no better place to recharge one’s batteries and to make plans for the future, than the mountains.
Of course, it is fair to say that Australian mountains are more like hills by world standards, with Mt Kosciuskzo, the highest, standing at only 2,228 meters. Even so, whenever I’m in the Snowy Mountains I revel in the crisp, clean ‘mountain’ air, and feel like the world is full of possibilities.
Silver Snow Daisy Celmisia asteliifolia on the summer slopes of Mt Hotham, 14 December 2012 (iPhone S4).
Wetlands Boggy ground and mountain views along Rennix Walk, 11 November 2012.
Mount Townsend Grass and snow patches viewed from the Summit Walk, 10 November 2012.
In the past few months, we’ve crossed through the high country passes a few times, and stayed near Kosciuszko National Park several more. Each time, the clean air and open skies have caused me to stop – to revel in those timeless moments when everything shimmers and feels endless.
Our most recent trip into Australia’s alpine regions was almost symbolic: as we approached Jindabyne, gateway to Kosciuszko, the summer sun started setting, casting a red and orange light over the land. At the same time, as if to signal the end of a hectic year, the full moon rose over the foothills.
Sunset ~ Moonrise Full moon rising: The Snowy River Way, 28 December 2012 (iPhone S4).
Full-Moon Magic The last full moon of the year through the gum trees, Jindabyne, 28 December 2012.
After arriving at our destination, we sat outside. Everything was quiet as we watched the last full moon of the year rise through the gum trees opposite our patio. What a perfect way to wind down after a busy festive season with family!
Of course, I don’t sit still for very long; in a few days we were out cycling and walking across some of Kosciuszko National Park’s vast and varied alpine landscape.
The Main Range Patches of Mountain Celery are scattered across the Main Range, Kosciuszko National Park.
Mountain Celery Aciphylla glacialis against the open sky, 30 December 2012 (iPhone S4).
Eyebright Clumps of euphrasia collina dot the hillside beside the Summit Walk, 30 December 2012.
Australian Raven The distinctive long throat feathers (hackles) accompany the raucous cries of one of the many corvus coronoides along our track, 30 December 2012.
It’s a wild and rugged landscape.
Silver Snow Daisies don’t bloom long, but are my favourite.
Their beautiful silver-blue foliage colours the alpine hollows.
Grasslands It’s a nice, easy walk from Thredbo Diggings campsite to Bullock’s Hut, 01 January 2013.
Fallen log along Bullock’s Track.
Sun bounces off the grasses.
Purple Wildflowers The wild and delicate forest floor, 01 January 2013.
Gum Forest Gum trees – fallen and standing – line Bullock’s Track.
Confluence The meeting point of Thredbo River and Little Thredbo River at Bullock’s Flat, 01 January 2013.
Clear Waters The Thredbo River runs cold and clear, Bullock’s Flat, 01 January 2013.
Company March flies can be an ever-present pest during the summer months. Bullock’s Flat, 01 January 2013.
A Riot of Colour Delicate yellow pea flowers in rich green grass, Bullock’s Flat, 01 January 2013.
Memorial to fires past.
Bullock’s Track.
Grasses in the Wind Life is tough in the Snowy Mountains: tufts of grass get a hold on granite rock.
White Flowers With every step, the textures, colours and scents of the forest change.
Family Day Out Families spend their New Year’s day cooling off in the Thredbo River, 01 January 2013.
It is always delightful exploring Kosciuszko National Park’s tracks and trails, and it was a great place to welcome the New Year, with all it’s fresh potential.
Wishing you all the best of the New Year ~ where ever you are and whatever your plans.
Pictures: 10 and 11 November 2012; 14 and 30 December 2012; 1 January 2013.
[…] I, personally, have been incredibly lucky this past year – with new babies and new adventures – but the events of the world around me have had an impact. I often feel weighted down by the disasters and acts of insanity that I see in the nightly news and feel the need to withdraw: to wrap myself in healing nature and refresh my spirit. There can be no better place to recharge one’s batteries and to make plans for the future, than t… […]ReplyCancel
The giant warrior (Dvarapala Yaksha) guards the doors to Wat Ratchathammaram’s unfinished temple.
Enlightenment doesn’t happen overnight.
Neither, apparently, does building a temple.
I don’t know how long they have been working on the new wihan (พระวิหาร), or shrine hall, at Wat Ratchathammaram (วัดราชธรรมาราม) in Maret on the southeast side of Koh Samui, but we’ve been driving past on the way to or from somewhere for several of our visits to the island over recent years – the sight each time causing me to remark on the beautiful red colour of the cement or clay in the building’s structure.
On our last two visits: mid-2011 and early 2012, we actually stopped. Comparing the two sets of photos that I took, I can see little change in the building or the surrounding grounds across the intervening time.
Although the shrine hall structure is up, and some of the paving is down, Wat Ratchathammaram’swihan still has an “unfinished” look.
The giant warriors have been standing guard at the temple doorway for some time…
…but the dragons at the steps are still supported by scaffolding.
The wihan houses the temple’s Buddha image.
Thai temples are often decorated with murals depicting stories from religious and everyday life. Theravada Buddhist scriptures are written in Pali, an Indian language not generally understood by Thais outside the monkhood, and temple art provides a means of passing on historical, moral, and religious lessons.
At Wat Ratchathammaram, the murals are in elaborate bas-relief, instead of the more common stylised and richly-coloured wall paintings.
This panel depicts Hanuman, the magical white monkey warrior, in an episode from the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Ramayana, the 2000 year old Hindu epic.
Scenes of battle from the Ramakien.
Ganesh, the Remover of Obstacles, in a back corner.
Devas, benevolent supernatural beings, say prayers.
More deities feature on the exterior of the back wall.
The intricately decorated roof bargeboard or lamyong includes elements of the feathered garuda and the serpentine nāga.
Karma, from the Sanskrit karman, or ‘action, effect, fate’, comes from one’s actions and intentions. Therefore, making merit (puñña), or doing good mindfully, contributes to good karma in the Thai world-view. Honouring others (especially the Buddha) and offering service (especially to the temple) are a great way to make merit.
A young man meticulously fills the gaps between the paving tiles.
Careful work on the new paving tiles.
Paving tools.
As is the case on any building site, rubble collects on the ground.
New mouldings are stacked and waiting.
Meanwhile, around the rest of the temple grounds, life continues.
A cat sits on the tea-making table outside the abbot’s rooms.
Little kuti (monks’ houses) drop down the hill…
… with a pleasing view over the Bay of Thailand.
Beneath the temple, down towards the beach, a number of memorial stupas are located.
Decorated in rich colours and designs…
… they contain the ashes of loved ones.
Vases for flower offerings and incense sit at the base of many of the stupas –
– and a Buddha image is never far away.
The wildly coloured temple bell is a surprise, given the monochrome tones of the wihan.
It is a lovely, quiet spot, and I look forward to seeing what changes – if any – have been effected by our next visit.
Greetings to you, too, Dietmut! Glad you enjoyed the post. 🙂ReplyCancel
Michael -January 14, 2014 - 8:10 pm
Liked your post and your pics are so much better than the ones I took!!!!!!!!, having read your article I can confirm that it is much the same as when you were last there, my pics from 24th Mar 2013 still show dragons supported by scaffolding and building rubble scattered around, all the same I liked it and will revisit in April 2014.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
It is these simple pleasures that keep us coming back. We still have hopes of retiring there one day…
Before long, we were back in our air-conditioned bus and driving north, and the villagers could go back to their work: pumping and carrying water, plowing the fields behind a bullock, tending the chickens and geese, rowing the boats on the river –
Yellowstone’s landscape changes with every bend in the road. Of course, it changes with every season, as well. The guidebook is right: three days is barely enough! A friend of mine makes a point of trying to visit the park every year, and I can understand the appeal; as we drove out, we were already plotting a way to come back one day.
It is a lovely, quiet spot, and I look forward to seeing what changes – if any – have been effected by our next visit.
Nice series of shots, Ursula. Although I tend to agree with your assessment of the current situation there. I was always a regular visitor to the Island, and spent months at a time there, my brother has lived on Samui for over 20 years. But my last visit was around 4 years ago and I doubt very much if I will return. My brother is planning to move his business to another location, maybe even onto the mainland, as he is not enjoying the Island life anymore (the last power cut with days without electricity being the final straw) 🙁
Thanks for the nice photos Ursula. I met my wife on Koh Samui 8 years ago. We still enjoy the island, but are dismayed with the excessive 5 star hotel constructions.
We have found that Koh Chang has not, as yet, suffered the fates of Phuket or Samui. We will consider living there when we move back to Thailand.
Rand & Nok
Greetings, Guava and Rand!
Samui certainly has its challenges; that last power cut was something!! Still, Thailand has many beautiful places – you just have to look harder these days.
Thanks for your visits.
Enjoyable to read and lots of good memories
Another nice set of photos, Ursula. Thanks. From them I can see why the place attracts you.
Hi Patrick! So glad you enjoyed the set. Samui does have its moments. 😀