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On the Rails
A charming little train with a sleek, modern exterior and traditional-looking wooden-slat seats inside follows electric, self-propulsion rack-railway tracks through the subalpine forests and up the steep climb from the Chamonix-Montenvers Railway Station to the Montenvers Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice).
I was staying in Geneva, Switzerland, but spending the day in Chamonix-Mont-Blanc (Chamonix) in France.
Europe is like that!
In the midst of a couple of rainy days in Geneva visiting with old friends before continuing further east, I booked myself an self-guided day trip bus trip to Chamonix. This included a ticket for the gondola up to the top of the Aiguille du Midi: a peak in the French Alps that affords wonderful views over the Mont Blanc massif and across to that legendary mountain itself. That portion of my day was exhilarating (see: On Top of the World), and I was so glad that I had finally made it there.
Also included in my day was a ticket for The Montenvers Train, which runs 20 minutes up the 5.1 km (3.2 mi) rack railway line from Chamonix to the Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice). This is the largest glacier in France and the most visited. Once there, you can ride a gondola down to the ice-pack itself, and (sometimes) walk into an ice cave. Back in the 17th century, there was an imposing natural cave in the glacier’s terminal tongue. Since the mid-1900s, an artificial tunnel has been dug into the glacier to accommodate tourist visitors.
Unfortunately, like other glaciers around the world, the Mer de Glace is shrinking. Measured since the 1860s, it has lost 120 meters in thickness over a century at its terminus, and the leading edge retreats about 70m every year.
I’ve visited several glaciers in my time (eg: Perito Merino), and this one, with its surfeit of gritty moraine, could only be described as disappointing.
Still, the trip itself was well worth it – and it certainly highlights the effects of climate change!
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Mountaintops and Icicles
The views over the Mont Blanc massif from the Aiguille du Midi in the French Alps are just jaw-dropping (see: On Top of the World).
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Autumn Colours in Chamonix
Back in the Chamonix-Mont-Blanc streets below, I walk past condominiums, vacation apartments, …
A Bee Hotel
… and hotels for people and insects.
Hang Glider
There are blue skies overhead …
Mont Blanc Peaks
… and jagged, snow-dusted peaks all around.
La Maison Des Artistes – Artist’s Residence
Beautiful natural environments attract creative people. This complex: the Villa des Améthystes, was built in 1926 in the local architectural style. It is now a key location on the artistic scene. It features living and meeting spaces and a state-of-the-art recording studio.
On the Bridge
I meet plenty of tourists and locals as I follow my GoogleMaps across town and over the tracks to the Montenvers Mer De Glace Train Station.
Gare de Chamonix-Montenvers
The Railway Station de Montenvers, built between 1906 and 1908, was the departure station for the famous cogwheel train to the Mer de Glace glacier.
On the Fence
Today, the railway carriages are entered through a simple gate. An attendant watches as our train departs.
Overlooking the Winding River of Ice
When we get off the train, we arrive into an observation area overlooking the glacial moraine.
Rocks and Gravel
Télécabine de la Mer de Glace
Opened in 2024, the modern arrival station’s circular glass design provides panoramic views up the Mer de Glace glacier and over the alpine landscape.
Ice Cave
The bubble lift (cable car) takes you down towards the ice – but due to the significant recession of the glacier, there are still over a hundred steps down to our lowest access point. We were unable to descend the remaining 100-or-so stairs to the cave itself because it had become unstable and was off-limits.
Moon over Chamonix
With the restaurant closed for the season and the ice cave off limits, I make the best of it by reading all the travel-style posters and the information on glacier formation. Apparently, Mary Shelley was greatly inspired by the the Mer de Glace. After camping there with her husband in 1816, she called it ‘The most desolate place in the world’.
Mer De Glace Montenvers
Every so often, the clouds lift, and the valley of ice is lit up.
A Moment of Light
The Mont Blanc Massif behind the glacier catches the sun.
Closed and Forlorn
The Refuge du Montenvers, a historic hotel and restaurant located at the Montenvers station, is closed for the season.
Portrait of a Tradesman
Since I can’t explore the building, I chat with the tradesmen doing work on the site.
Admiring the View
Another Tradesman
Work is going on all around.
Laying Concrete
A fresh walkway is going in next to the cogged train tracks.
Chamonix and the Forêt Communale de Chamonix
As I go back down the hill, I admire the valley from the train.
Tall Conifers – Taller Mountains
La Locomotive Nº8
This is one of four high-pressure steam locomotives introduced to improve transport to the Mer de Glace glacier. It operated from 1927 to 1964, and stands in contrast to the new, sleek electric carriages.
Mille-Feuilles in a Display Case
No one does pastries quite like the French! I stop into the Rose du Pont restaurant where the decor is as magnificent as the food.
Water and Wine
I manage to resist the pastries, and order roasted vegetables – and of course, wine and water.
Almost Abstract : Back to Geneva
We are treated to a magnificent, dreamy sunset as we motor along the smooth highway from France back to Switzerland.
It was a wonderful day, and well worth the trip. As sad as it is to see the decline in the Mer de Glace, that is the world we are living in.
Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Photos: 02October2024
