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A Gulet in Full Sail
They call it the Turquoise Coast: on Türkiye’s Gulf of Gökova every shade of blue is represented across the day.
I had always dreamed of a small-ship cruise on the Aegean Sea. That fabled dramatic coastline; countless small islands; and calm blue waters; all suggested the most luxurious of relaxing getaways – especially if you are not responsible for sailing the vessel yourself!
When the opportunity presented itself, the time-frame and the price-point of trips on the Turkish -rather than Greek – portion of the Sea caught my eye. I found a small-ship cruise on the Gulf of Goköva out of Bodrum in the south of Türkiye that fit neatly between my short stay in Istanbul (see: Bosphorus Dreaming) and a ground tour I had planned (see: The Gallipoli Peninsula).
So it was that I spent a day in Bodrum exploring the historic Castle of St Peter while waiting to board my ship: the eight-cabin MS Flas VII, a 33-34 meter luxury Turkish gulet with a captain, a cook, and two crew – and 10 passengers.
Gulets are a traditional style of two- or three-masted wooden sailing vessel built in the coastal towns around the gulf. Today, they are popular for tourist charters and take advantage of diesel power. On many, the masts are purely for show and are not properly rigged for sailing.
We spent the first few days aboard ours cruising gently into quiet coves, swimming and kayaking in the pristine waters, and walking on almost-deserted islands.
Join me for some quiet, dreamy days on the Turkish Riviera.
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My Home for the Week
My air-conditioned cabin on the MS Flas VII is equipped with everything I need, which bodes well for the week ahead.
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Captain at the Helm
Docking spaces in Bodrum are at a premium; in the early evening our captain steers our gulet into a neighbouring cove.
Crew in the Zodiac
The anchor is set and a young crew member has attached the shore line to the mooring eye in the adjacent cliff. Our first night will be nice and quiet.
Sunrise through the Seahaze
I get up early in the morning – and find a yoga mat on the prow for some stretching as the sun comes up.
Misty Morning Sea Fog
The 100km- (62mi)- long Gulf of Gökova is an inlet on the Aegean. We cross south from Bodrum to the Datça Peninsula as the morning fog clings to the lands on the horizon.
Our Schooner
We come to rest along the rugged coastline of the Datça Peninsula – where I head out in a kayak.
Yachts Rafted
A pair of modern yachts is anchored nearby – but I still feel alone in the quiet.
Turkish Pine – Pinus Brutia
Also known as Calabrian pine or Mediterranean pine, the trees bend against the wind and cling to this rugged coast with its myriad small bays and harbors.
Reflected Colours
The still sea reflects the red rocky coast in its own remarkable blue and turquoise hues.
Marker on a Cliff
The next morning we are on the move again – heading east towards Yedi Adalar (Seven Islands), a chain of pine-covered islands.
Flash 7 at Rest in a Nameless Cove
The island of the Yedi Adalar group have countless coves, bays, and anchorages. It is nice to get ashore and go for a walk on solid ground.
Early Crocus – Crocus Tommasinianus
Although the islands are uninhabited, all the bays are all connected to each other by dirt paths.
Mediterranean Scrub
Higher up, I look down over the vegetation to our gulet at anchor in the blue.
Mastic Tree – Pistacia Lentiscus
Native throughout the Mediterranean region, this little aromatic evergreen shrub is used for healing and cosmetic purposes.
Nature’s Artworks : Pine Cones against the Sky
Beehives
These islands are uninhabited – but not unused. Villagers from nearby visit their hives regularly – enjoying fragrant honey from the surrounding vegetation.
Another Curve of Cove
The Turkish pines lean into the waters all along the shore.
Another Gokova Sunrise
The mornings were well worth getting up for!
Another Gulet
We weren’t the only ship anchored in the coves of Yedi Adalar. The MS Nikola is another vessel from the same company as ours.
Man in a Runabout
They were close enough for me to watch as the sailors made the MS Nikola ready …
A Gulet on the Way
… and she chugged slowly back into the Gulf.
The Waters from a Kayak
We stop half way through our morning trip for another chance to swim, SUP, or kayak. The colours of the water are constantly changing.
Nature’s Abstracts: Sea Urchins
I kayak over the impossibly clear waters, trying to photograph the constantly changing landscape underneath me.
Full Sail in the Gulf of Gokova
The rugged coastline with its untold small bays and harbours against the stunning backdrop of pine-clad hills and mountains was indeed magnificent.
And the meals aboard my gulet were superb. I could get used to this!
Safe Sailing!
Photos: 01-4October2022
