In Love with Morocco’s Blue Pearl: Chefchaouen (#1)

Women in abayas in Rue Bin Souaki, Chefchaouen, Morocco

Women in a Blue Street
Autumn rain washes the narrow, winding streets in the medina – the old city – of Chefchaouen: a blue-washed delight in Morocco’s northwestern Rif Mountains.

I loved Chefchaouen.

I never quite managed to pronounce it though!

The name of this charming little city in the mountains of northwestern Morocco comes from an Arabic word chef meaning “to look” and a Berber word echaouen meaning “antlers” or “horns”; the term refers to the two most prominent mountain peaks that overlook the city, rising up like the horns of an animal.

The fortified city was founded in 1471 by a distant descendant of the Islamic Prophet Muhammad. It was intended as a defence against potential attacks by Portuguese invaders. In addition to local Berbers, the original settlers were predominantly Andalusi Muslims and Sephardic Jews who were escaping the Iberian Peninsula during and after the Spanish Reconquista.

Today, Chefchaouen is known as the Blue Pearl of Morocco.

The blue and white houses, stairs, and pavements that gives rise to this name are attributed to a later influx of Jewish refugees. In the 1930s, a large number of European Jews – trying to escape Hitler’s growing reach – landed in the city. On arrival, they painted their homes and buildings to symbolise their faith. Their choice of hue came from the Jewish tradition of weaving blue thread into prayer shawls to remind people of the sky, the heavens, and ultimately, God’s power.

Most of that Jewish population left for Israel when it was formed in 1948, but the practice of painting the buildings in the medina blue lives on. Some say the colour repels mosquitoes. Some maintain that the wash of blue and white keeps the houses cooler in summer months.

There are several other possible explanations. What is known for sure is that the colourful streets attract artists and tourists. So, the local government hands out paint brushes to inner-city residents annually to help keep Chefchaouen looking fresh.

Join me for a rainy walk through Morocco’s Blue Pearl:

Heart-shaped selfie frame overlooking Chefchaouen, Morocco.

People Love Chefchaouen!
My small group and I drove into the city from Meknes, visiting Volubilis enroute (see: Roman Ruins in Morocco). Naturally, we stopped briefly at the Selfie Spot overlooking the city.

Central fountain in a courtyard, Chefchaouen, Morocco.

In a Decrepit Courtyard
On an early-morning walk from our hotel in the medina, we stopped into a traditional Andalusian courtyard: decaying, but still beautiful.

Plaza Uta el Hammam
Our walk took us through through the central plaza. The heart of the medina is shady, cobbled, and surrounded by mountains, cafes, restaurants, and history.

Chefchaouen Rooftops
Rooftops rise all around against a backdrop of mountain and low-hanging cloud.

Tourists in Plaza Uta el Hammam
It is raining – but softly – just enough to wash the cobbles and brighten the landscape.

A Water Fountain
Everywhere you go in Morocco, you will see beautiful public fountains. Naturally, in Chefchaouen, they are blue!

Arched Doorway
Intricately patterned floor tiles are another common feature of Moroccan design.

Wall Art
Mariano Bertuchi (1884-1955) was a Spanish painter from Granada who painted the landscapes of Morocco and scenes of daily life. He spent a lot of time in this region – relocating to Tetouan just an hour and a half north of here, where he eventually died.

Wall Bracket

Colourful Stairway
The laneways are narrow, colourful, and WET!

Steep Stairs and Wall Art
Stairs wander off in all directions, and every shade of blue is represented in the paint.

Restaurant el Cielo
Tourism has given the little city a boost.

Once an Andalusian Mosque …
Built some time between 1540 and 1550, this was once the site of a mosque. I’m not sure what the building is used for today.

A Colourful Corner

Into the Clouds
Stairs lead off in all directions.

Water from the Rif Mountains
The Ras al-Ma’ (Ras El Maa) or Head of the Water is located here, just east of the medina. This natural mountain spring was the original water source for the city.

Ras al-Maa – Head of the Water
Particularly valued in the heat of summer, the mountain waters tumble over boulders as they make thier way down hill.