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Salmonberry – Rubus Spectabilis
Mid-June is salmonberry season. These brambles can slow down your walking progress: both by tangling over the trails and by tempting you with their fruit.
I loved just about every minute I stayed on Haida Gwaii, that archipelago off the coast of British Columbia (BC) in Canada’s North Pacific waters. I knew I would spend most of my time walking in the old-growth woods and exploring the Haida Nation’s cultural history; what I didn’t expect was to be wowed by the food.
Whether I was foraging berries everywhere I walked, eating a freshly cooked salmon burger with caesar salad on my lap al fresco (see: Birds and Boats around the Waterways), or sitting down to one of several casual fine dining options comprising fresh, locally-grown produce, I relished every meal.
So, I really had to walk or I’d no longer fit into my clothes!
Most days, I hopped in the rental car with my local tourist map to explore hikes in the far reaches of the islands. But, there were a few days when I stayed close to base in the principal town of Daajing Giids on northern Graham Island. Thanks to the AllTrails app, one day I found a walk which actually started in town.
Naturally, I needed lunch first – and enjoyed a fresh locally-inspired platter at a Mediterranean restaurant just a few blocks from the start of the Charlie Hartie South Lake Trail. Charlie Hartie was an early pioneer in what was then called Queen Charlotte.
I don’t know what South Lake looks like – the path splits in two part way in, and I followed the other track. This might have been a mistake: I didn’t see anything particularly impressive before the trail just fizzled out. Looking at the AllTrails reviews, I’m not alone in finding this hike underwhelming. But, at least the four km (2.5 mi) out-and-back track allowed me to get some fresh air, to forage for ripe berries, and to justify the glorious meals I’d eaten at lunch and the evening before!
Join me for some wonderful food and a short walk in the woods:
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Salad Starter
Who could resist this salad of locally-grown golden beets, tomatoes, goat cheese, and pea shoots? Delicious! (iPhone12Pro)
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The Main
The Blacktail menu is short – but it is all tempting. I had the homemade tagliatelle with a crimini mushroom duxelle, goat cheese, and truffle oil. (iPhone12Pro)
Men in the Kitchen
These are the young men responsible for the fabulous food at Blacktail, one of a select number of restaurants in Daajing Giids. (iPhone12Pro)
Path Marker
Thanks to a passing dog-walker, I found the trail-head and set off on the moderately-challenging Charlie Hartie South Lake Trail.
Salmonberries – Rubus Spectabilis
The salmonberries slowed me down: both because the track was overgrown with them, and because they were so “more-ish”.
Through the Brambles
Fortunately, salmonberries don’t snag nearly as badly as blackberries!
Clam Shells
There are shells nestled in the damp, mossy ground marking the way. Unfortunately, I have no idea what they are telling me!
Pathway through the Ferns
As I gain altitude, the path is less boggy underfoot and less choked with brambles.
Black Slug – Arion Ater
These slugs are so common I thought they were indigenous. They are not! But they love this wet, shady ground.
Look Up!
Haida Gwaii is home to a number of giants, especially sitka spruce, western hemlock, western red cedar, and yellow cedar – all growing straight and tall to chase the sun.
Bear’s Bread – Ganoderma Applanatum
I was fascinated by these bracket fungi, which I first saw on Moresby Island (see: Mr Fungus).
New Growth
Nature’s Artworks : Tree Trunks
Patterns are everywhere.
Spider’s Web
Trail Markers in the Tangle
Almost an hour in, the rough tracks diverge. This probably explains why I never saw a lake! Both directions were similarly overgrown.
Another Bracket Fungus
These mushrooms are very tough – making them suitable for scrimshaw and other carving, but less good for eating.
Nature’s Abstracts : Sitka Spruce Tree Bark
The bark of the sitka spruce is patterned in thin, asymmetrical patches.
Water over Rocks
Back towards the trail head, Hartie Creek tumbles over mossy rocks.
Hartie Creek
As I almost never drag a tripod along with me, I love playing with the iPhone’s long exposure feature. (iPhone12Pro)
A Muddy Path
The sun breaks through the brambles, where buttercups love the boggy ground.
The wet ground told me I was almost back at my car – ready find some more fabulous food, and to plan the next day’s explorations.
Until next time,
Happy walking!
Photos: 15-16June2022
