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Looking over the Bosphorus
How lucky am I? A friend of mine was living and working in Istanbul, and I was able to spend a few days watching the ships in the busy Bosphorus Strait. The picture windows in her living room looked over the rooftops of Europe and across the waters to the Asian shores.
Istanbul is the heart of Türkiye – economically, culturally, and historically. It is quite literally at the crossroads of Europe and Asia – sitting, as it does, either side of the Bosphorus Strait: part of the imaginary divide between the two continents. Strategically located along the historic Silk Road, it commands the only sea route between the Black Sea and the Mediterranean.
I was feeling pretty lucky: a friend of mine, who had been living and working in Istanbul for some time, had a spare room. Her commodious apartment was located on a steep hill in Beşiktaş, a waterfront suburb on the European side of the Bosphorus, and I was able to spend a few days just watching the ships in the busy strait from a chair in her living room.
As much as it would have been nice to explore the city immediately, I was – in effect – between trips. I had landed in Istanbul after enjoying a wonderful month in Greece (see: Revelling in Santorini), and had plans to explore the Gökova Gulf by sailing vessel; old Lycian paths on foot; and much of the country on a small-group tour. I would return to Istanbul at the and hopefully see more of the city then.
In the meantime, I was quite happy to spend my days sitting in the living room, watching the ships on the busy Bosphorus while my cameras downloaded. The view over the waters was mesmerising, and I had to remind myself to break away long enough to catch up on laundry and other practicalities.
Then, I’d wander out into the streets in the afternoons to meet my friend at some pre-arranged location for dinner once she finished work. We never ended up very far from the water!
I left the cameras behind, and relied on my iPhone12Pro for this introductory taste of a very cosmopolitan city.
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Location, Location!
It is hard to imagine a more perfect quiet spot in this bustling city.
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Turkish Naval Vessel on the Bosphorus
There were always ships to watch on the busy artery between the Black Sea and the Sea of Marmara.
Caution! Dogs And Cats
This city takes its domestic animals seriously.
Lines and Curves: Yahya Efendi Sokağı
Once out of the apartment, I had no trouble getting my steps in on the steep and winding cobbled roads.
Over the Rooftops of Istanbul to the Sea of Marmara
On my first evening, we met up at the stylish five-star Conrad Istanbul Bosphorus for rooftop cocktails and panoramic twilight views.
Istanbul from the Conrad Rooftop Bar
The outlook over the city stretches in all directions and the sun goes down over my first day.
Ortaköy Square – Ortaköy Meydanı
On my second evening, we meet near Ortaköy pier square, where locals gather along the waterfront for views over Ortaköy Mosque and Bosphorus Bridge.
Ortaköy Mosque (1844-1846)
The colours are dramatic as the light drops over the small but iconic mosque formerly known as Büyük Mecidiye Camii.
Waterfront Restaurant, Ortaköy
We were spoiled for choice by all the restaurants along the water’s edge.
The Ultimate Baked Potato Market
Imagine! A whole section of street devoted to kumpir, a favourite street food of baked potato stuffed with the most outrageously coloured fillings.
“I’ve got the Kumpir for YOU!”
All the Beautiful People
Our postprandial walk takes us past the historic Hüsrev Kethüda Hammam, which was commissioned in 1550 and used for 300 years as a traditional Turkish steam bath. In 2011, it was restored to its original form, and is now a venue for culture and arts events hosted by the Beşiktaş Municipality.
Afternoon in Tree-Lined Boulevards
The streets of Istanbul felt very safe, and with the aid of GoogleMaps, I always found my way around.
Treasury Gate of the Dolmabahçe Palace
I walk to the pier for a sunset cruise on the Bosphorus, past the ornate Saltanat Kapısı – Sultanate Gate – of a 19th century Ottoman palace that now houses a museum.
Dolmabahçe Palace
Our cruise takes us past the front of the same palace. Built between 1843 and 1856, this Ottoman building with Western influences stands on reclaimed lands that, four hundred years ago, were a bay where the Admiralty anchored its ships.
Ortaköy Mosque – Büyük Mecidiye Mosque
Here, from the water, is the same mosque we saw from the streets the day before.
Mosque on Çamlıca Hill
On the Asian side of the strait, we can see the Grand Çamlıca Mosque perched high on Çamlıca Hill.
Rambling Buildings in Arnavutköy
Consulate General of the Arab Republic of Egypt
This beautiful little art nouveau mini-palace was built in 1902 for Princess Amina Ilhamy.
Rumeli Hisar – Rumeli Fortress
Evening shadows fall on this fortress complex, built between 1451 and 1452. In the nascent days of the Ottoman Empire, Sultan Mehmed II wanted the then-Byzantine city of Constantinople as his capital. So, to blockage the Bosphorus Strait, the Rumel Fortress was built opposite the older Anadoluhisari – Anatolian Fortress – on the other side of the water. Today, the fortress is a popular museum.
Anadoluhisarı – Anatolian Fortress (1393-4)
At the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge we turn around, and there – on the still-sunny Asian side of the waters – is the oldest surviving Turkish structure in Istanbul.
Küçüksu Pavilion – Küçüksu Kasrı – Littlewater Pavilion
Completed in 1857, this little palace served as a short-stay summer pavilion for various Ottoman sultans. More recently, it has found its way into Hollywood and Bollywood films.
Asia from the Bosphorus
Golden light colours the Vahdettin Pavilion, or Çengelköy Pavilion, on a hill in Üsküdar district. An inaccurate copy of an older palace, it is an official residence for the President of Türkiye, and is used as a state guest house.
Beylerbeyi Mosque
Beylerbeyi Palace
Another summer residence for the Sultans and visiting dignitaries, this pretty structure was built between 1861-1865.
Sunset over Istanbul
As we pass back under the Bosphorus Bridge, the sun is setting over the city.
Şemsi Ahmet Pasha Mosque
Fresh Fish at the Galata Bridge
It is golden hour as we turn into the Golden Horn, the primary inlet into the Bosphorus. The lights are on at the fish markets and restaurants.
Watchers on the Galata Bridge
We turn around to head back to our pier and people watch from the bridge, silhouetted against the darkening sky.
Naturally, the snacks aboard our cruise were insufficient to hold us; we stopped for gözleme, traditional Turkish flatbread stuffed with spinach and feta before continuing uphill to home.
It was a wonderful introduction to this amazing city – and I couldn’t wait to get back to explore more.
Until then,
Happy Travels!
Photos: 27-29September2022
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