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Bald Eagles on the Rocks
The eagles that congregate around the waters of Haida Gwaii, off the northwestern coast of Canada’s British Columbia, are so numerous that they almost seem commonplace. Photo: 14June2022
You are never far from water on Haida Gwaii.
This collection of around 150 islands in northwestern British Columbia (BC), Canada is home to the people of the Haida Nation – and has been for at least 13,000 years.
The archipelago sits between 55 and 125 km (34 and 78 mi) from the BC mainland to the east. For animals and people alike, the only way to access the islands is by water or air. Most people arrive – as I did – via a weather-dependent 7 or 8 hour ferry trip across the shallow Hecate Strait from the northern BC city of Prince Rupert (see: Local History in Wood and Water). The relative isolation from the mainland has resulted in a unique bioculture that is home to many endemic plants and animals.
People’s lives here are integrated with the surrounding waters, with boats and seaplanes being the only means of accessing many locations. I spent a full on one boat, visiting abandoned ancient Haida villages that cannot be reached any other way (see: Gwaii Haanas National Park and Haida Heritage Site).
Bald eagles (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) live here, watching over the waters in search of prey. The only eagles unique to North America, they are fast and powerful hunters with extraordinary eyesight. Perhaps less elegantly, they are alopportunistic – and can be seen eating carrion on roadways or scavenging near boat launches and rubbish tips. It is such a contrast to the days of my youth, when they were on the brink of extinction, and we dewy-eyed idealists backed the ban on DDT and helped collect it for managed disposal.
The birds have bounced back since then, and are present in countless numbers in these northern woods and waters. I never tire of watching them.
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A Modest Breakfast
After a start like this, you’d better get out and expend some energy! (iPhone12Pro)
Photo: 13June2022
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Canoes on the Foreshore
Boats are the lifeblood here. Modern fiberglass canoes and aluminium outboards have mostly replaced the beautifully carved and painted red-cedar log canoes that the Haida are known for. (iPhone12Pro)
Photo: 10June2022
Overlooking the Islands of Skidegate Inlet
You are never far from water in Haida Gwaii. My first modest room in Daajing Giids – formerly known as Queen Charlotte – gave me views over Skidegate Channel. (iPhone12Pro)
Photo: 10June2022
Waiting for the Next Floatplane
Skidegate Inlet is home to a number of commercial and private floatplane services. These small propellor planes are the primary means of reaching many difficult-to-access spots around the islands. Between flights, the pier is quiet. (iPhone12Pro)
Photo: 13June2022
Evening on the Charlotte Wharf
The boat harbour, by contrast, is a noisy jumble of vessels. It is nine o’clock at night, but at 53° north, and just over a week before summer solstice, the days are long. (iPhone12Pro)
Photo: 13June2022
Scavengers on the Waterfront
Bald eagles will happily scavenge for their food. Someone has left offal on the Skidegate boat ramp. Photo: 14June2022
Keeping Watch
I’m parked in the queue for the BC Ferries vessel which will transport me and my rental car to the next island. This gives me time to watch the birds – who are not very bothered by my presence. Photo: 14June2022
Juvenile and Adult
Bald eagles are relatively slow-growers, with juveniles typically retaining their dark brown feathers, overlaid with messy white streaking, until their fifth year. Look at the powerful curve of those beaks! Photo: 14June2022
Those Eyes!
It is not for nothing that we refer to “eagle-eyed”. Bald eagles have 20/5 vision: they see at 20 feet what we can see at 5 feet. They also have UV light perception and a 340-degree field of view. Photo: 14June2022
On the Rocks
Bald eagles truly are magnificent creatures, growing to between 4.5 to 6.8 kg (10 to 15 pounds), with wingspans of up to 2.4 meters (8 feet). The large crows in the scene give you an idea of their size. Photo: 14June2022
On the Alliford Bay Ferry
BC Ferries are an extension – albeit, a user-pays extension – of the local highway network. I was on my way from Graham Island (Kiis Gwaay) in the north, across the Skidegate Channel to Moresby Island (T’aawxii X̱aaydag̱a Gwaay.yaay linag̱waay or Gwaay Haanas) in the south.
Channel Marker on Skidegate Channel
It is a 20 minute crossing, with plenty of scenery along the way.
Grasses on Moresby Island
Off the ferry, I take the time to regroup, check maps, and appreciate my surrounds.
Thimbleberry – Rubus Parviflorus
It has been a cold spring: the local berries are flowering, but not yet showing any fruit.
A Curve of Beach
Black Guillemot or Tystie – Cepphus Grylle
Neither my lenses nor my temperament lend themselves to birdwatching, …
Semipalmated Plover – Charadrius Semipalmatus
… but when birds present themselves, I do my best! These guys were tiny: sparrow-sized.
House Near Sandspit
Only 325 people (2021) live on Moresby Island, so there is plenty of space! I’m guessing these people work at the little airport in the background.
Salmon Burger and Caesar Salad
There aren’t a lot of services on Moresby Island, so locating the pop-up food-van was essential – and rewardingly tasty. (iPhone12Pro)
Sandspit Harbour
Back on the waterfront …
Juvenile
… I get the opportunity to watch more eagles go about their day.
Eagle in Flight
(iPhone12Pro)
Ferry on the Sound
The ferries continue their passages – silent except for the occasional sounding of their whistles.
Photo: 14June2022
The waters around Haida Gwaii are magical, surrounded by magnificent mountains and teeming with life.
I enjoyed every minute I spent in this beautiful archipelago.
Let’s tread softly on these wonderful lands.
Photo2: 10-14June2022
