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Flying the Flag over Dar Al Makhzen
Rabat is one of Morocco’s four Imperial cities: the current Royal Palace there was built in 1864 by Mohammed IV.
The UNESCO World Heritage-listed city of Rabat is known for its blend of tradition and modernity. The capital of Morocco and one of the four Imperial cities, it sits on the Atlantic coast in the north-west of the country. Rabat features clean streets and well-maintained buildings that speak to its Islamic and French-colonial heritage.
The city’s name comes from the Arabic word الرباط (a-Ribāṭ) meaning the ribat, an Islamic base or fortification; this is a shortened version of the name given to the naval base founded there in 1170 by the Almohads in defence of their North African Berber Muslim Empire. Evidence of this period is visible in the walls of the fortress: the Kasbah of the Udayas.
During the Marinid dynasty period (13th to 15th centuries), the city fell into a long period of decline and became a haven for Barbary pirates. The French used the city as their administrative center when they established a protectorate over Morocco in 1912. The country achieved its independence in 1955, and Rabat became the capital.
Lonely Planet suggests at least two days in the city with a guide; we had a few hours. After a morning tour of the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca (see: Lines and Curves and Decorated Spaces), the small group I was travelling with had driven the hour north along the coast to Rabat. Once there, we visited some of the main sights: the Royal Palace, the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, the Kasbah of the Udayas, the Andalusian Gardens, and the medina, before continuing our drive to Meknes, the former capital of Morocco, where we would stay overnight.
Even in a short visit, you can get a sense of the city and why UNESCO values it as the product of a fertile exchange between the Arabo-Muslim past and Western modernism.
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In the Palace Grounds
Our first stop when we arrived in Rabat was in the extensive grounds that surround the Dar al-Makhzen, the Royal Palace. The complex includes a large parade ground, a small mosque, and a number of imperial and administrative services.
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The Mosque el Faeh
Commissioned by Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah in the 18th century, the Royal Mosque has been meticulously maintained and restored. There is an ongoing tradition of the Moroccan king leading significant prayers and delivering the Friday sermon (khotbah) here.

Fountain in the Central Gardens
A mechouar, or courtyard, sits between the mosque and the Royal Palace.

Storks at the Palace
White storks (Ciconia ciconia) make themselves at home on the palace grounds.

Royal Architecture
The white walls and green-tiled roof of the Dar Al Makhzen, the Royal Palace, display all the marks of traditional Moroccan Islamic design.

Palace Portal
The entry to the palace is ornately decorated – and a hive of activity.

Guards at the Door
I was fascinated by the different uniforms – and the apparently casual demeanour – at the entry to the palace.

Mausoleum of Mohammed V
A short drive brought us to our next site: the mausoleum containing the tombs of the Moroccan King Mohammed V and his two sons, the late King Hassan II and Prince Abdallah.

Polylobed Moorish Arches and Interlacing Sebka-Decorated Walls
Built between 1961 and 1971, the mausoleum complex was designed by Vietnamese architect Cong Vo Toan and incorporates traditional Moroccan motifs crafted from modern materials.

Intricate Chased Gold Decoration
The roof of the Mohammed V tomb is topped by a beautiful large hammered metal incense burner .

The Grand Theatre Of Rabat
Across the road from the tomb, I have a view of the Grand Théâtre de Rabat. Designed by internationally renowned Iraqi-born British architect Zaha Hadid (1950-2016), planning started in 2010 and the building was inaugurated in 2024. The curving design is inspired by the winding of the nearby river and by the flow of Arabic calligraphy.

The Mohammed VI Tower
Africa’s tallest tower stands in complete contrast nearby.

Horse Guards
The mausoleum has its own formal mounted guard.

Portrait of a Horse Guard

Horseman’s Boots

Pedicab
The Boulevard Mohamed Lyazidi outside the mausoleum is busy with all manner of traffic.

Inside the Mausoleum
It was a formal day of mourning, so we were unable to enter the complex.

Arched Window
Instead, we walked around the mausoleum compound, admiring the beautifully decorated walls.

Old City Walls
Back in our bus, we drove past lengths of the Andalusian wall – in varying states of repair. (iPhone15Pro)

The Garden
Our next stop was outside the kasbah where an Andalusian-style garden was landscaped in the early 20th century. It is meant to evoke the feel of a riad, the central open square inside traditional Moroccan homes.

City Wall
From the garden, we walked around the UNESCO-listed Kasbah of the Udayas and the medina.

Hamsa Hand Door Knocker

In the Market
The narrow white-and-winding laneways are filled with arts and crafts to appeal to tourists.

Souvenir Fridge Magnets

Red Harbour Marker
Rabat is bounded by the Oued Bou Regreg, the Bouregreg River, and the Atlantic. The commuter town of Salé is on the opposite riverbank.

Kasbah of the Udayas
This Berber-era royal fort overlooks the ocean. A restoration of the citadel was started in 1914 under the French Protectorate, and today the site – with its scenic views – is a popular tourist attraction.

Bab Oudayas – the Main Gate
This monumental main gate was built in the late 12th century. All of the large horseshoe-arched entrance doors into the Kasbah of the Udayas are richly decorated. The pattern features curved bands of interlacing geometric forms commonly seen in Moroccan architecture.

Lighthouse of Rabat
We take one last look over the Atlantic Ocean before finding our bus.
I certainly could have used more time in the city of Rabat.
But, we turned away from the ocean, and drove inland towards Meknes, the former capital of Morocco.
Until the next adventure,
Safe Travels!
Pictures: 14October2024





























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