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Vegetable Sales
I love the freshness that you can almost taste in the vibrant colours of the vegetables on offer in the street markets in Nowhatta, Srinagar, in India’s Kashmir. I especially love the friendly faces of the vendors who know perfectly well that I am unlikely to buy anything.
Any visitor to these pages knows I love markets.
So, on my first day in Srinagar, the largest city and summer capital of the union territory of Jammu and Kashmir, India, I was in my element. The itinerary had us walking through various old streets and markets.
I was travelling with a small group of photography enthusiasts. We spent part of our first morning in the old streets around Srinagar’s oldest mosque (see: Shah-e-Hamadan Masjid and Srinagar Street Scenes).
From there, our walking trip took us through the narrow bustling streets in the old city of Srinagar, where I had plenty of time to interact with the locals and make naturalistic environmental portraits of people as they went about their daily lives.
We slowly made our way towards one of the largest mosques in Kashmir: the Jamia Masjid in Srinagar Nowhatta. The extensive Jamia Market complex which neighbours the mosque houses traditional arts, handicrafts, jewelry, spices, and fabrics – and attracts tourists and locals alike.
Later in the day, we visited a small, crowded workshop to learn about the process of making Kashmir’s famous papier-mâché (paper mache) products.
Of course, all the handicrafts and other items for sale were quite beautiful – but I was more interested in the people themselves.
On a photographic note: I was dealing with new cameras that are of a different make to my old ones. I couldn’t work out many of the settings and couldn’t get the focal points where I wanted them. As a consequence, some of the pictures I took had very ‘soft’ focus, or focus in the wrong spot. Hopefully, none of those will slip through here – but, as my eyes are also a bit ‘soft’, anything is possible!
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Brush Salesman
The narrow streets on the short walk between the Shah-e-Hamdan Mosque and the Jamia Masjid are lined with shops packed with products. Even so, some vendors manage without a shop-front, like this young man with his bicycle laden with brooms.
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Warm Smiles
I can’t help but admire the relaxed and friendly demeanor of the local shopkeepers.
In the Spices
Many of the shop spaces are packed full – with hardly any room left for their minders
In the Grains
Many of us who have spent our lives in chairs have no hope of being able to sit and kneel the way that even older people can in Asia!
In the Copper
Every little shopfront has its own specialty.
Metal Worker
Sparks fly in a dark corner where a man hammers out a tin cup.
Surrounded by Copper
Everyone has a phone – and can keep themselves occupied between customers.
Fresh Vegetables
I can hear the crunch! (iPhone12Pro)
Tallying the Purchases
I love watching the interactions in markets – there is always so much going on.
Old Man
There are some real characters in the streets.
Lotus Roots
Making and Selling Samosas
Freshly cooked food is never far away. (iPhone12Pro)
Samosa Cook in a Topi
Woman in the Apples
Most of the vendors here are men; this was the only woman I saw.
A Kashmiri Kitchen
We made a short stop in a traditional Kashmiri family home – a narrow, multi-story building that houses an extended family. I love the shiny utensils hanging in their niche.
Speakers on the Rooftop
The design of the Jamia Masjid is influenced by Persian architecture, with pagoda-like pyramidal roofs at each of its four corners. The mosque was originally built between 1394 and 1402, and has long been the centre of religious and political life in Srinagar.
Selling Islamic Decor
Jamia Market is next door to the Jamia Masjid. Unsurprisingly, an Islamic wall-art store with Arabic calligraphy and motifs is the first shop that catches my eye.
Dyeing Fabrics
In another corner of the market, men are hand-dyeing fabrics.
Portrait of a Young Man
Shiny Pots
Later in the afternoon, we stop in at Kawoosa Arts and Crafts to learn how papier-mâché is made.
Hanging Decorations
The workshop exports goods all around the world. Piles of products fill every corner as shipments are readied; small cones hang from the wooden slats in the ceiling while the requisite number is made for an order.
Moulding the Paper Layers
Applying Paint and Shellac
Delicate Paintwork
An artisan finds a patch of window light to illuminate the platter he is working on. It is time-consuming and delicate work.
Outside the Window
Lacquered Paper Mache
Inexpensive – but beautifully made – trinkets like these can be found all over India, but there is something special about finding them at their source. (iPhone12Pro)
I love shopping with the camera! It was a great introduction to this colourful and unique region, and I was very much looking forward to experiencing more.
I was quite pleased with myself: I managed to not buy anything.
After all, it was only our first full day!
Until next time.
Pictures: 11September2023
