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The American novelist, short story writer, and essayist, Henry Valentine Miller (1891-1980) was enamoured of Greece.
I must say: I was too.
I didn’t travel in the same style as Miller: he was there for nine months – originally at the invitation of author Lawrence Durrell – and spent his time in the company of writers and philosophers. I had only one month, and alternated my time between solo exploration and small-group travel.
On this particular day, I was on Naxos in the Cyclades, where I had already been treated to a number of gems (see: Jewel of the Cyclades). I had a free day on my own, and decided to brave the local buses and take a trip into mountains at the centre of the island to visit the fabled marble village of Apeiranthos (Apíranthos or Aperathos).
Only 28 km (17 mi) north-east of where I was staying (as the crow flies?), it was an hour’s drive, grinding up hill and around bends on an old bus full of locals. The town itself – when you get there – straddles an altitude of between 570 and 640 m (1870 and 2100 ft) on the flank of Mount Fanari; not that high perhaps, but having come from sea level, I felt the difference in air quality and temperature.
The similarities of the dialect and traditions to those in mountainous Cretan villages has led some historians to believe that Apeiranthos was built by Cretans, probably during the 10th century; I’ll leave that to the experts (see: Apeiranthos village).
What fascinated me was the abundant use of marble in the buildings – some dating back to the Venetian Empire of between 1207 and 1537. Quality marble has been quarried on the island since antiquity, and its skilled stone carvers and craftsmen have used it in everything from luminous sculptures to roof tiles and pavers. In Apeiranthos, marble is everywhere you look: the walls and window frames of the houses, the steps and pavers in the winding laneways, and – naturally – the goods in the tourist shops.
When I visited, the world was still reeling from Covid19 shutdowns, so the museums and the Woven Products Cooperative were all closed. I contented myself with wandering through the narrow marble laneways and climbing up and down endless steps and hills.
It is no wonder the locals stay fit!
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Coastal Villages
As the bus climbs into the hills, I get a beautiful view over the countryside. (iPhone12Pro)
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Houses on the Mountainside
Descending from the bus in Apeiranthos, I walked up the roadway to get my bearings. High on a hill, a whitewashed home stands against the blue Mediterranean midday sky.
The View
Back downhill, islands dot the waters of the south Aegean Sea.
Church on a Hill
Around a bend, I find the whitewashed Agia Paraskevi church standing against the dark blue sky. This little Greek Orthodox church – dating to 1720 – is dedicated to Saint Paraskevi of Rome, a venerated Christian martyr from the 2nd century.
Everyday Life
Around 1000 people live in Apeiranthos; they certainly get their exercise, walking the hilly streets.
Metal Doorway in a Marble Wall
Naxos was the first Greek island to work with marble: in Apeiranthos, almost everything is made of it – including the walls of houses.
Textured Walls and Door
Clearly, not all the buildings lining the winding laneways are occupied.
Between the Houses
Walls, stairs, and even the street pavers in this village are all made of marble.
Narrow Walkway
Many of the double-story houses and laneways here go back to the days of the Venetian Empire.
Tourists on the Steps
Stairs are everywhere, leading you through the narrow winding alleys.
Plants on the Steps
Many of the stairways are worn and wonky, but potted and hanging plants add colour and charm.
Archway and Stairs
Arches and tiny tunnels pass between the multi-story houses.
The Texture of Peeling Paint
Another Archway and More Stairs
No two archways are the same.
Church Rooftop
Looking up from the narrow laneways, I find another Orthodox dome against the cloudless sky.
View over the Countryside
The ruins of old stone mills dot the hillside; the Panagia (Virgin Mary) Aperathitissa church has a commanding presence on the main street below.
Marble Stairs
It is like being in a labyrinth! Lanes, stairs, …
Marble Arches
… and quirky arches lead off in all directions.
Down to the Market
Thanks to my walking app working like a breadcrumb trail, I found my way back to the main street, and set off in search of lunch.
Sagging Stairs and Taverna
The next set of steps looked like it was in danger of collapse.
Local Marble and Ceramics
A shop on the main street showcases the local stone-craft …
Pottery and Plates
Fortunately for me, most pieces were too big and too heavy to fit in my suitcase.and Textures
More Stairs Down …
Mоst οf the villаge is οnly aсcessiblе by fοot, with cars аnd buses relegated to the main roаd and the outskirts.
… and Up Again!
That, and the gleaming marble everywhere, is probably why it is regularly called the most picturesque village on Naxos.
Church of Panagia (Virgin Mary) Aperathitissa
Near my bus stop, one of the oldest churches on the island draws me in with the tolling of its bells.
The Bells Toll
An elderly woman has died, and her relatives ring the church bells as part of the funeral service.
Over Chalki Village
Being located on the side of of a mountain, Apeiranthos is also known for its views. Before the bus comes, I get one last look at the next village below. (iPhone12Pro)
It’s a charming village, seemingly untouched by time.
Naturally, I couldn’t completely resist: I went home with a small piece of inlaid marble.
And a smile!
Until next time…
Pictures: 23September2022
