Passau, the “City of Three Rivers”, Germany

Old Passau

Old Passau from the Tunnel
It amazes me how European cities manage to preserve the gothic and baroque architecture of their ancestry in the midst of thriving modern metropolises.

My husband was born in Passau, Germany.

Or, so they tell him; he doesn’t actually remember.

It is named as his birthplace on his papers, which always causes some consternation at border-crossings, because he has a Hungarian name and an American passport. His parents escaped from Hungary after the Soviet Red Army invaded in September 1944. Some years later, when my husband was five, they emigrated to the USA with their three children. 

So, we were extra curious to visit the Bavarian city of Passau: to find out what kind of place it was, and to see if he recognised anything.

Called die Dreiflüssestadtthe “City of Three Rivers”, Passau sits at the confluence of the Danube, the Inn, and the Ilz Rivers in southern Germany, near the the Czech and Austrian borders. It was first mentioned by the Romans in the 2nd century BC, after they pushed the resident Boii Celtic tribe out of the area and back across the Alps to make way a for a fort. 

Some time in the second half of the 5th century, the Italian (Saint) Severinus of Noricum established a Christian monastery in Passau. In 739, the Anglo-Saxon monk (Saint) Boniface founded the Roman Catholic Diocese of Passau – the largest diocese of the Holy Roman Empire for many years. The city is still predominantly Catholic.

Passau was once an important centre for the medieval salt trade, and later became known for its guilds, especially those crafting quality swords and knives. A medieval fortress – the Veste Oberhaus – which was built in 1219 to be a stronghold for the Bishop of Passau, still sits on a hill, overlooking the city from across the Danube.

Much of the original architecture in the old city was destroyed by fire in 1662, and the buildings were subsequently rebuilt in the Baroque-style that was popular during that period. These are some of the ornate and beautiful buildings one sees today.

We arrived by canal boat early one summer morning, and were able to explore much of the old city – as well as the Veste Oberhaus fortress-museum – by foot before cruising away and into Austria at dinner time.

Do join us.

Old Passau from a canal boat portal on the Danube River, Germany

Passau from the Portal
One of the beauties of travelling by canal boat is waking up with a new city outside your window in the morning. (iPhone5)

Female Bavarian Guide in a dirndl, Passau, Germany

Bavarian Guide
Andrea, our smiling guide for a walking tour of Passau’s Old City, meets us on the banks of the Danube in her dirndl: the traditional Bavarian women’s costume of bodice, puff sleeved blouse, full skirt and apron.

Luxury canal cruiseboats on on the Danube, Passau Germany

Boats on the Canal
Passau is the last train-stop in Germany before the Austrian border. It is also a day-stop for the increasingly popular European river-cruising tourism industry.

Anchor sculpture: monument to the victims of the Danube, Passau

“Den Opfern der Donau”
“The victims of the Danube: erected by the friends of the rivers and seas.” – Passau 1971

Landscape: Paulinerkloster Mariahilf on the hillside south of old Passau, Germany.

Paulinerkloster Mariahilf
Much of the Altestadt, the Old City, is located on the low-lying peninsula at the confluence of the Danube and Inn Rivers. From the tip of the peninsula, the Paulinerkloster Mariahilf – a pilgrimage church built in the early 1620s – can be seen to the south, across the Inn River.

Stairs and arched gateway through Passau

Neumarkt Wall
The NeumarktNew Market – grew up between the 10th and 13th centuries. In 1209, it was surrounded by a stone wall, separating it from the old town centre.

Schaibling Guard Tower, River Inn, Passau Germany

Schaiblingsturm – Schaibling Guard Tower
The best-preserved portion of Passau’s former city wall fortifications, the Schaibling Guard Tower, was built in 1481.

Council workers hosing the old Passau city walls and Schaiblingsturm, Germany

Cleaning the Schaiblingsturm
Passau’s location on a narrow, low strip of land at the confluence of three rivers makes it subject to regular flooding. A graph on a nearby wall shows the high water marks dating back to 1501. On June 2, 2013 – about a year before our visit – the waters had risen to levels not seen in over five hundred years. The clean up was ongoing.

Metal Door illustrated with a man and boy, Old Passau, Germany.

Metal Door
Artwork adorns the old city walls and doors.

Clocktower through a metal archway, Passau Germany

Arch and Clocktower
Walking through the old city brings a new delight at every turn.

Passau Rathaus from the plaza, Germany

Rathaus – Town Hall
The colourfully decorated Venetian-style town hall building dates back to 1405.

Passau Rathaus and Clock Tower , Germany

Rathausturm – Town Hall Tower
The current 38-meter neo-Gothic Rathaus clock-tower was finished in 1892. It houses Bavaria’s largest carillon (glockenspiel), ringing tunes out over the city three times a day.

Wittelsbach fountain and Residenzplatz - Residence Plaza, Passau Germany

Residenzplatz – Residence Plaza
The baroque-style Wittelsbach Fountain (Wittelsbacher Brunnen) was built in Residence Square
(Residenzplatz) in 1903.

View inside the New Bishop

Inside the New Bishop’s Residence Museum
The early-18th century Bishop’s Palace is now a museum showcasing some of Passau’s treasures from its days as the capitol of the largest diocese in the Holy Roman Empire.

View of Passau

Saint Stephen’s Cathedral
The beautiful Saint Stephen’s Cathedral was built in 1688, after the 1662 fire destroyed most of its predecessor. (iPhone5)

The baroque stucco-work and ceiling frescos inside the St. Stephen

St. Stephen’s Ceiling
The baroque stucco-work and ceiling frescos inside the cathedral are just stunning. (iPhone5)

St. Stephen

St. Stephen’s Cathedral Altar

St. Stephen

St. Stephen’s Organ
This the world’s largest cathedral organ. The sound resonating through the cathedral when it is played is magnificent – although I can’t say I enjoyed the choice of pieces we were treated to!

View of the Passau Veste Oberhaus across the Schanzlbrücke and Danube, Germany

Veste Oberhaus over the Schanzl Bridge
After lunch back on our canal-boat, we crossed the Schanzlbrücke over the Danube and climbed the 200 steps of the Oberhausleiten-Stiege – the Upper House Stairs, …

View of Old Passau from the Oberhausleiten-Stiege stairway, Germany

Old Passau
… stopping occasionally to take in the view (and catch our breath!), …

Passau

Veste Oberhaus
… before finally reaching the old fortress, built for Passau’s Prince-Bishops in 1219 to control commerce in the rivers below.

A group of women in gold bonnets and period dress, Veste Oberhaus, Passau Germany

Goldhaubenfrauen – Gold Bonnet Women
We were surprised, when we stopped at the coffee shop outside the fortress, to find the courtyard filled with women in period costume.

Woman with red hair in a Goldhaube gold bonnet, Veste Oberhaus Passau Germany

Woman in a Goldhaube
A Goldhaube is a headdress that women from wealthy or bourgeoise families have worn for 200 years in this region of Eastern Bavaria and Upper Austria. Today, it is more a symbol of regional cultural identity than of wealth. Listed as an item of Intangible UNESCO Cultural Heritage in 2014, the Goldhaube is normally reserved for special occasions. These women were at the fortress for their bimonthly “Goldhaubengruppe” Gold-Hat Group meeting.

Inner Courtyard in the Veste Oberhaus, Passau Germany

Inner Courtyard in the Veste Oberhaus
The fortress is a rambling affair, with buildings in gothic, renaissance and baroque styles.

Mannequin dressed as court guards, Veste Oberhaus, Passau Germany

Castle Attendants
The fortress museum illustrates Passau’s long history.

Wooden Wax Moulds, Veste Oberhaus, Passau Germany

Wooden Wax Moulds
The different rooms house exhibits of a particular focus, …

An intricate metal locking system, Veste Oberhaus, Passau Germany

Locking Mechanism
… and we quite enjoyed our time wandering through them.

Woman in a dirndl with a golden bonnet in a glass case, Viking Cruise Boat, Germany

Goldhauben in a Glass Case
When we returned to our boat, we discovered that “Passau Gold Domes” are not just ladies’ hats!

Chef stirring up Passau gold dome chocolate, Viking Cruis Boat, Passau, Germany

Making Passauer Goldhauben
They are also a praline sweet, made from apricot and nut truffle with caramelised almond flakes, in light and dark chocolate …

Hand painting gold onto chocolate Passau Gold Domes pralines, Germany

Painting Passauer Goldhauben
… painted with 23-carat gold leaf.

It was a “sweet” ending to an interesting visit.

And at least now my husband can say he remembers Passau!

Until next time – 

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 19August2014

  • Gabe - December 8, 2016 - 10:47 pm

    A beautiful narrative of our visit. Brings back fond memories.ReplyCancel

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