Opium for Breakfast – Bishnoi Village, Rajasthan, India

Bishnoi men seated around an opium filtration system, Rajasthan India

Men’s Morning Circle
It’s early morning. Bishnoi men, wrapped up against the cold, prepare their ritual opium tea.

There are countless deities in the Indian pantheon.

Sometimes it seems that the number of religions and cults is almost as high.

Scattered around the Western Thar Desert of India and Pakistan are villages of people calling themselves Bishnois. Followers of “Jambhaji”, as Guru Jambheshwar of Bikaner (b.1451) became known, these people are predominantly descended from Jat peasants and Rajput warriors from the north: Haryana, Punjab and Rajasthan.

The Bishnoi are known for their staunch environmentalism, and commemorate the martyrdom of the more than 360 people who died in 1730 trying to save the trees of Khejarli. Today, they mount strong protests against the killing of wild animals. They are strict vegetarians, and filter their water before boiling it to prevent any bugs being killed. They even bang their firewood before burning it to make sure any insects can escape.

The name “Bishnoi” comes from bis (twenty) and nai (nine), representing the 29 rules for living handed down from Guru Jambheshwar. It is ironic that rule 24 is to not use opium; on the tourist circuit, the Bishnoi are perhaps best known for their morning opium ceremony. For while opium is officially banned in India, it is not only used in Bishnoi villages, a drink made from it is freely offered to visitors.

I was travelling with a small group of photography enthusiasts, under the guidance of photographer Karl Grobl and local expert DV Singh. For the record, none of us tried the opium drink – though from what I have read, it is neither tasty, nor particularly potent.

A motorcycle and a jeep on a narrow road against the Sunrise, Rajasthan India

Motorcycle Sunrise
We started out early: the sun was low on the autumn horizon as we made our way to a Bishnoi village near Khejarla, Rajasthan.

Blackbuck (Antilope cervicapra), Rajasthan India

Blackbuck  – Antilope Cervicapra
This is a dry region with sparse grazing; some people believe that the Bishnoi protection of all animals helps account for the larger numbers of deer and antelope in these Bishnoi-dominated areas.

Bishnoi men seated around an opium filtration system, Rajasthan India

Preparing Opium
A ball of dried opium (or a quantity of seeds) is pounded in a vessel and small amounts of water are added.

Pouring the opium Juice into a filter, Rajasthan India

Pouring the Juice
The mixture, called amal, is then poured into a filter.

Men drinking opium from cupped hands, Rajasthan India

Drinking Opium
… and the thin liquid is drunk from cupped hands. The process was repeated a number of times, until each man had had his share.

Pouring the opium Juice into a filter, Rajasthan India

Filtering Opium
The amal is filtered three times, prayers are said, …

Bishnoi woman washing dishes, Rajasthan India

Washing Dishes
I wandered off to see what the other villagers were doing. In the semi-open courtyard of one of the homes, a woman was washing cups.

Bishnoi woman tending a fire, Rajasthan India

Tending the Hearth
She tended the fire…

Bishnoi woman Pouring Chai, Rajasthan India

Pouring Chai
… and made chai …

Bishnoi woman Pouring Chai, Rajasthan India

Pouring Chai
… for the men to collect.

Portrait of a Bishnoi Woman, Rajasthan India

Bishnoi Woman

Portrait of a Bishnoi Man and his Children, Rajasthan India

A Man and his Children

Portrait of a Bishnoi Man, Rajasthan India

Bishnoi Man

Portrait of a Bishnoi Man, Rajasthan India

Bishnoi Man
… and their chai. (Rule 25 is against tobacco.)

Men pouring opium into cupped hands, Rajasthan India

Pouring the Amal
The men continue to enjoy their opium and cigarettes, …

Portrait of an old Bishnoi Woman, Rajasthan India

Old Bishnoi Woman
Away from where the men gather around their opium and chat, the early-morning activities continue.

Bishnoi Children heading to school, Rajasthan India

School Children
Children in uniforms head to school…

Bishnoi Woman in Pink with a broom, Rajasthan India

Woman in Pink
… and a young woman heads inside after sweeping her porch.

Pile of thorn twigs and a large bowl, Bishnoi Village, Rajasthan India

The Wood Pile
Rule 10 requires that water, milk and firewood be filtered, so as to prevent damaging any living creatures when it is boiled or burned. Dried wood is collected for cooking fires: Bishnoi are not allowed to cut green trees.

Bishnoi woman making Chapati , Rajasthan India

Rolling out Chapati
In another house, a woman is making capātī – from the Hindi capānā, meaning ‘flatten, roll out’.

Bishnoi woman

Patting Capātī
The unleavened bread is patted into an iron pan.

Bishnoi woman making Chapati , Rajasthan India

Sprinkling the Ghee
Ghī, clarified butter, gives the chapatis their flavour and keeps them from sticking to the pan.

Bishnoi woman and a young boy in school uniform, Rajasthan India

Off to School
A young lad tucks his chapati – rolled in newspaper – into his school bag, and heads off.

Portrait of a Bishnoi Woman, Rajasthan India

Bishnoi Woman

Bishnoi house inner courtyard, Rajasthan India

A Place for Everything …
Possessions are few, but everything is clean and tidy – especially by comparison with much of India!

Composite: Bishnoi Mother with child in a doorway inset against a Village Well, Rajasthan India

Young Mother and Village Well
The cows in the background are for milk; the Bishnoi eat no meat.

Sign-Off-Namaste

I was pleased to share the villagers’ morning – if not their opium! It was certainly an unusual experience.

Until next time,

Namaste!

Photos: 12November2013

  • BISHNOI - April 15, 2018 - 5:05 am

    Thanks for inspiring us .
    Thanku very much
    Sagar bishnoiReplyCancel

    • Ursula - April 16, 2018 - 7:56 am

      You have a fascinating culture. Thanks for stopping by.
      Cheers, UrsulaReplyCancel

  • Follow 29 bishnoi rules - April 17, 2018 - 8:33 am

    Thanks for describing about bishnoi people’s life . We are animal lover’s . Just follow 29 rules and maoe your life happyReplyCancel

  • Jack kershaw - March 6, 2019 - 3:45 pm

    Amazing photos. Do you know the name of this village, or can you put me in contact with the guide?ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - March 7, 2019 - 3:46 am

      Thanks!
      Contact Dv (Digvijay) Singh Jagat at India Exotica Travels Pvt Ltd – dv_jagat@yahoo.com
      Tell him I sent you. 😀

      Cheers, UrsulaReplyCancel

Your email is never published or shared. Required fields are marked *

*

*