Burmese Market-and-Coffee Stop, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Fish Seller with a Cheroot, Nyaung Shwe Market, Myanmar

Fish Seller with a Cheroot
The morning markets of Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar are a rich feast for the senses.

Burmese markets are a feast for the senses: the angled light sneaking in through slatted bamboo walls and streaming under tent canopies and corrugated tin roofs; the riotous colours of freshly picked vegetables; the rich smells of packed dirt floors, freshly cut meat, and frying spices. In the stillness of dark corners and oppressive tropical heat, vendors sit on low tables, surrounded by their wares, working and waiting.

It’s the waiting that amazes me: that ability to sit quietly, with no signs of impatience, when nothing is happening. This sense of time stretching endlessly alternates with periods of chaotic business, when jostling customers come in clumps, to pick through the goods and to haggle. Money changes hands, and people laugh and smile and gossip.

One of the (many) things I love about Asian markets is how people take for granted the stranger in their midst. Completely unselfconsciously, they either engage and allow themselves to be photographed, or they go about their business, paying the many interlopers no heed. For I was not alone in the morning market at Nyaung Shwe: somewhere amongst the crowds in the complex were at least nine other photography enthusiasts, photographer Karl Grobl and local guide Mr MM.

I love taking time in markets making portraits of people – and I love how the rich environment helps tell a story about the subjects’ lives.

Burmese woman and her grandson, Nyaung Shwe Market, Myanmar

Boy and his Grandma
Morning markets are full of people willing to be photographed; …

Burmese boy in Thanaka Powder, Nyaung Shwe Market, Myanmar

Boy in Thanaka Powder
… the biggest challenge is the light.

Vegetables, Nyaung Shwe Market, Myanmar

Vegetables
The vegetable displays are a feast of colours and textures.

Burmese woman with a meat and chili stew, Nyaung Shwe Market, Myanmar

“Fast Food”
Ready-prepared meals are available – rich and spicy, with lots of chilies.

Burmese woman in the vegetables, Nyaung Shwe Market, Myanmar

Woman in the Vegetables

Burmese woman with fish for sale, Nyaung Shwe Market, Myanmar

Fish Seller with a Cheroot
The fish is freshly caught, and the smiles are free.

Portrait of a Burmese woman in thank powder, Nyaung Shwe Market, Myanmar

Portrait of a Fish Seller
Thanaka powder, made from ground bark, is meant to highlight beauty and prevent sunburn, as well as to help cure acne and keep skin smooth.

Portrait of a Young Burmese boy in thanaka powder, Nyaung Shwe Market, Myanmar

Young Boy in Thanaka
Children are especially pleased to smile for the stranger.

Burmese Woman, Nyaung Shwe Market, Myanmar

Hilltribe Woman
The morning light pours between the buildings in the market complex …

Burmese Woman bundling vegetables, Nyaung Shwe Market, Myanmar

Hilltribe Woman and Child
… as a grower bundles her onions …

Burmese boy in a Cap, Nyaung Shwe Market, Myanmar

Boy in a Cap
… and her handsome son watches quietly.

Burmese Woman with a Flower in her hair, Nyaung Shwe Market, Myanmar

Woman with a Flower

Burmese woman silhouetted against a Doorway, Nyaung Shwe Market, Myanmar

Exit Doorway
Walking out of the dim market buildings takes one “into the light”.

Young Man at a Coffee Shop, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Young Man at the Coffee Shop
Just across from the market buildings is a well-placed coffee shop.

Young Burmese man in a Coffee Shop, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Burmese “Barista”

Old Burmese Man with a Coffee, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Man with Coffee
The coffee itself is rich with flavour, and the customers are full of character.

Burmese men in a Coffee Shop, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Two Men and their Coffee
Most of the tables in the shop are occupied: breakfast is a serious business.

Two Burmese Men in a Coffee Shop, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Two Men
Against the bright light of the outside world, friends meet.

Burmese man in a Coffee Shop, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Man with Coffee

Burmese men in a Coffee Shop, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Sharing a Laugh

Two Burmese Women in a Coffee Shop, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Two Women
In the darker corners, there are stories to be told.

Burmese coffee in a glass cup, Coffee Shop, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Morning Coffee
I thoroughly enjoyed my coffee break before moving on to the rest of my day.

Text: Keep smiling

Coffee. And open faces.

Is there anything better?

Keep smiling!

Pictures: 23September2012

  • Ruti Alon - June 12, 2016 - 6:10 am

    Ursula,

    These are beautiful. You are correct, the lighting is wonderful. These images bring back sights and “smellls” of my experience with the same duo of Karl and MM. You captured the market scene so well.
    RutiReplyCancel

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