The giant warrior (Dvarapala Yaksha) guards the doors to Wat Ratchathammaram’s unfinished temple.
Enlightenment doesn’t happen overnight.
Neither, apparently, does building a temple.
I don’t know how long they have been working on the new wihan (พระวิหาร), or shrine hall, at Wat Ratchathammaram (วัดราชธรรมาราม) in Maret on the southeast side of Koh Samui, but we’ve been driving past on the way to or from somewhere for several of our visits to the island over recent years – the sight each time causing me to remark on the beautiful red colour of the cement or clay in the building’s structure.
On our last two visits: mid-2011 and early 2012, we actually stopped. Comparing the two sets of photos that I took, I can see little change in the building or the surrounding grounds across the intervening time.
Although the shrine hall structure is up, and some of the paving is down, Wat Ratchathammaram’s wihan still has an “unfinished” look.
The giant warriors have been standing guard at the temple doorway for some time…
…but the dragons at the steps are still supported by scaffolding.
The wihan houses the temple’s Buddha image.
Thai temples are often decorated with murals depicting stories from religious and everyday life. Theravada Buddhist scriptures are written in Pali, an Indian language not generally understood by Thais outside the monkhood, and temple art provides a means of passing on historical, moral, and religious lessons.
At Wat Ratchathammaram, the murals are in elaborate bas-relief, instead of the more common stylised and richly-coloured wall paintings.
This panel depicts Hanuman, the magical white monkey warrior, in an episode from the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Ramayana, the 2000 year old Hindu epic.
Scenes of battle from the Ramakien.
Ganesh, the Remover of Obstacles, in a back corner.
Devas, benevolent supernatural beings, say prayers.
More deities feature on the exterior of the back wall.
The intricately decorated roof bargeboard or lamyong includes elements of the feathered garuda and the serpentine nāga.
Karma, from the Sanskrit karman, or ‘action, effect, fate’, comes from one’s actions and intentions. Therefore, making merit (puñña), or doing good mindfully, contributes to good karma in the Thai world-view. Honouring others (especially the Buddha) and offering service (especially to the temple) are a great way to make merit.
A young man meticulously fills the gaps between the paving tiles.
Careful work on the new paving tiles.
Paving tools.
As is the case on any building site, rubble collects on the ground.
New mouldings are stacked and waiting.
Meanwhile, around the rest of the temple grounds, life continues.
A cat sits on the tea-making table outside the abbot’s rooms.
Little kuti (monks’ houses) drop down the hill…
… with a pleasing view over the Bay of Thailand.
Beneath the temple, down towards the beach, a number of memorial stupas are located.
Decorated in rich colours and designs…
… they contain the ashes of loved ones.
Vases for flower offerings and incense sit at the base of many of the stupas –
– and a Buddha image is never far away.
The wildly coloured temple bell is a surprise, given the monochrome tones of the wihan.
It is a lovely, quiet spot, and I look forward to seeing what changes – if any – have been effected by our next visit.
Pictures: 22August2011 and 29April2012
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Probably still unfinished, but peaceful just the same
Such vibrant colours and an idealic location to contemplate, just looking at the water would be so relaxing. Gorgeous as always.
ik heb je bericht weer met veel interesse gelezen Ursula. Ook je geplaatste fotos waren weer super. Groetjes Dietmut
Greetings to you, too, Dietmut! Glad you enjoyed the post. 🙂
Liked your post and your pics are so much better than the ones I took!!!!!!!!, having read your article I can confirm that it is much the same as when you were last there, my pics from 24th Mar 2013 still show dragons supported by scaffolding and building rubble scattered around, all the same I liked it and will revisit in April 2014.
Mick
Thanks for the visit, Michael. I am not surprised to hear there has been little change at the temple – but isn’t it a peaceful spot?
😀