Past, Present, Future China: Xiamen, Fujian Province

Men Fishing on Yundang Waihu, Xiamen China

Fishing on Yundang Waihu
Just another day in Xiamen, China: men quietly fishing in timeless tradition on Yudang Lake, as the modern city rises up behind them.

Xiamen, an island-city on China’s southeast coast, has been ranked as China’s second “most suitable city for living” … as well as China’s “most romantic leisure city”, making it a popular destination for domestic tourists.

It is reasonably accessible to foreign tourists, as well. Some time ago, while my husband was busy with meetings in a nearby free-trade zone, I spent a few days following a dual-language map around the city.

First established during the Ming Dynasty (A.D. 1368-1644) as a major Chinese seaport, Xiamen – with its industrial-development, investment, and free-trade zones – continues to be an important land, sea, and air hub for Southeast Asia. Only 180 kilometres (110 mi) across the Taiwan Strait (Formosa Strait) from Taiwan, it considers itself an international city.

Rather ethnocentrically, I took “international” to mean Westernised, but although Gulangyu Island, a short ferry ride from downtown Xiamen, features Victorian-era European architecture, Xiamen itself is very Asian. Many of the Hokkien natives of this area emigrated to other countries in Southeast Asia during the 19th and early 20th century; many have returned with “foreign” (Asian) ideas, and some with money for universities and cultural institutions.

It is probably this free-flow of money and ideas that contributes to the “liveability” of the city: it has preserved the past in its temples (see: Nan Putuo Temple), forts, and other historical buildings (see: Gulangyu Island); it is surrounded by water and filled with parks, lakes, cultural buildings, and public art; and its university, the first university in China founded by overseas Chinese, helps the city look to its future.

High Rises reflected in Yundang Waihu, Xiamen China

Xiamen High-Rises
Yundang Waihu Yundang Lake is a tranquil oasis in the city –

Two men on a bench, silhouetted against Yundang Waihu, Xiamen China

Around Yundang Waihu
– where locals walk, or fish or just sit.

Elaborate stone sculpture at Bailouzhou Park Entrance, Yundang Waihu , Xiamen China

Bailouzhou Park Entrance
In the middle of Yundang Lake is a large island park with four access points. Elaborate stone sculptured gates decorate one entrance.

Large Sculpture in layered Stones,  Bailouzhou Park, Yundang Waihu , Xiamen China

Stone Sculpture
Other sculptures can be found within the large park – which also houses various recreation facilities.

Sign: "Keep the Environment Clean and Preserve Social Morality",  Bailouzhou Park, Yundang Waihu, Xiamen China

“Keep the Environment Clean and Preserve Social Morality”
This is China: there are signs everywhere, telling us what to do!

Cotton Tree against a high-rise Bailouzhou Park, Yundang Waihu, Xiamen China

Cotton Tree (Bombax Ceiba)
The park is a natural buffer against the city – for the local people, …

Red Cotton Tree flowers against a white sky, Bailouzhou Park, Yundang Waihu, Xiamen China

Cotton Tree (Bombax Ceiba)
… for lovers of beauty and nature, …

Egrets on pylons in Yundang Waihu, Hazy  Xiamen highrises in the background, China

Lake Waterfront
… and for resident and migratory birdlife.

Steps down to the Port of Xiamen, China

Steps down to the Harbour Waters
The Port of Xiamen is an important and busy deep-water port –

Swimmers in the Port of Xiamen Waters, Fujian Province, China

Swimmers in the Port
– but even so, swimmers, with their own life buoys, do their morning exercise in the chilly harbour waters.

Working Ferry Boats, Port of Xiamen Waters, Fujian Province, China

Working Boats
The harbour is full of ferries –

Working Ferry Boats, Port of Xiamen Waters, Fujian Province, China

Loaded Ferry
– laden with goods and/or passengers.

Sculpture of a Woman on Xiamen Harbour, Fujian Province, China

Woman on the Harbour
On a harbour walkway there is a sculpture of a woman waiting for the boats to come in.

Gulangyu Island, Port of Xiamen Waters, Fujian Province, China

Gulangyu Island
Across the sea mists, Gulangyu (Kulangsu) Island, a popular domestic tourist destination, is also accessible by ferry service.

Two Chinese women with rose-apples in baskets, Xiamen, Fujian Province, China

Fruit Sellers
On the street, fresh-fruit sellers set up their rose-apple stands.

Chinese women gathered around a fruit basket in a Xiamen street, Fujian Province, China

Street Scenes
A few blocks away, other fresh fruits are available on the sidewalk.

Bronze sculpture of two men,Xiamen, Fujian Province, China

Two Men and a Fungus?
There is a plaque, in Chinese, explaining this art piece. I can’t even guess what they are doing, and could find no information on line – but it is another example of the sculptures dotted around the city.

Jars of Basil Seeds labelled: "Poison to Raise Colour", Xiamen, Fujian Province, China

“Poison to Raise Colour”
I think something has been lost in translation; sweet basil seeds are often used in Asian cooking, and are considered a super-food and slimming aide. But “poison?” Perhaps “potion”.

Red sculpture with three Turtles, Xiamen, Fujian Province, China

Lucky Turtles
Another sculpture has been erected under a tree in a major thoroughfare.

Chinese-style shop-fronts, Xiamen, Fujian Province, China

China Town?
A Chinese restaurant sits among some other old-style looking shop-fronts.

Chinese woman Stringing Beads for sale, Xiamen, Fujian Province, China

Stringing Beads
There are a variety of things available in the open-air markets on the wide city streets.

Manga-style Mannequin in a pink wig, Xiamen, Fujian Province, China

Mannequin
The shop-fronts make for fascinating window-shopping.

Walmart shop-front, Xiamen, Fujian Province, China

Walmart
This I did NOT expect! International, indeed.

Xiamen University entrance, Fujian Province, China

University Entrance
Xiamen University makes the TripAdvisor list of places to visit. There was a special function on the day I tried, and only those with invitations were allowed in. I spent the afternoon at Nan Putuo Temple instead.

Marble slate with an overview of Hulishan Fort, Xiamen, Fujian Province, China

“A Brief Introduction to Hulishan”
Hulishan Fortress was built in the 1890s, during Emperor Guangxu’s reign, on a strong base made of camphor tree sap mixed with liquid brown sugar, glutinous rice, clay and sand.

Chinese cannon battle reenactment, Hulishan Fort, Xiamen, Fujian Province, China

Cannon Fire
When I arrived at the fort, “solders” in period dress were reenacting a cannon battle.

Portrait of a man in Chinese period Warrior costume, Hulishan Fort, Xiamen, Fujian Province

Standard Bearer
After the reenactment, …

Portrait of a man in Chinese period Warrior costume, Hulishan Fort, Xiamen, Fujian Province

Chinese Warrior
… the “soldiers” pose for photographs.

Early Cannons, Hulishan Fort, Xiamen, Fujian Province, China

Early Cannons
For history buffs or munitions aficionados, Hulishan Fortress has a number of Chinese-made cannons, as well the “King of Cannons”, a 19th-century Krupp cannon from Germany – recognised by the 2000 Guinness Book of World Records as the oldest and largest coastal cannon on its original site in the world.

Chinese Cannons in a landscaped garden, Hulishan Fort, Xiamen, Fujian Province, China

Coastal Cannons
However, I was more interested in the surrounds and the people tending the gardens.

Sculpture of a Chinese stone mason, Hulishan Fort, Xiamen, Fujian Province, China

Worker Sculpture
I also enjoyed the sculptures, dioramas, and murals, which brought the story of the fortress to life in a way all the signage around the 13,000 square metre site could not.

Chinese woman on an Ammunition Caisson, Hulishan Fort, Xiamen, Fujian Province, China

Ammunition Caisson
The views from the fort were nice, and would be pretty spectacular on a clear day. It was evident that the local visitors were enjoying their day out at a site of national historic importance to them.

When Britain took control of Hong Kong after the first Opium War, China opened five Treaty Ports, of which Xiamen (literally: “lower gate”; Amoy in local Min Nan dialect) was one.

Some take the name to refer to the city’s location at the mouth of the Nine Dragon River; the more poetic see it as referring to the city’s centuries-old role as a gateway to China.

Text: Happy Travels

Either way, it is an example of China at its most accessible.

Till next time,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 01-04April2014

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