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Red Pigface on Tabarca
A native to South Africa, the Ice Plant (carpobrotus edulis) is a colourful – if invasive – addition to the rocky coastal views over the islet of Tabarca in the Mediterranean Sea.
Is there anything that says “Mediterranean” more than bright sun bouncing off blue waters and old white-washed walls? Add fresh seafood and salads bathed in rich olive oil, and the picture is complete.
The tiny islet of Tabarca, just off the coast of Alicante in Southern Spain, is the real deal.
The island was originally known as Illa de Sant Pau – Saint Paul’s Island – because it was believed that Paul the Apostle had disembarked there, or Illa Plana – Flat Island – because of its level surface.
Originally uninhabited, the islet, which is just 5 nautical miles (9 km) off the Spanish Mediterranean coast from Santa Pola, was a refuge for Barbary pirates on their raids from North Africa. In 1760, to protect against these raids, Charles III of Spain ordered that the islet be fortified and populated. A Spanish garrison, and a number of Genoese sailors who had been shipwrecked near the coast of Tunisia, were settled on the island. The sailors named it Nueva Tabarca (‘New Tabarca’), after their original home near the Tunisian town of Tabarka, which was a part of the Republic of Genoa until 1741.
Today, Tabarca is the smallest permanently-inhabited islet in Spain, with about 60 year-round residents. The islet incorporates a marine reserve (Reserva marina de la Isla de Tabarca), and tourism – especially in summer – is the main source of income.
My husband and I were staying in nearby Albir, and decided to visit Tabarca as part of day-long boat trip from Benidorm.
Do join us!
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Taxi Service to Tabarca
The islet is just 8 nautical miles (15 km) from Alicante and 5 nautical miles (9 km) from Santa Pola, and relies on a number of boat services. Looking rather plain from the sea, the Church of St Peter and St Paul was finished in 1779.
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Boatman on the Deck
We travelled to the islet on a large tourist boat from Benidorm: about a two-hour cruise along the Costa Blanca.
Tourist Boats at Tabarca
Once we finally arrive, we have to wait as a queue of tourist boats in front of us move in and out of Tabarca’s small dock.
Boatman and Tourists
It is nearly high-noon, and the sun bounces off the deck of the boat where tourists wait to disembark. One of the staff members watches on.
Boatman
Our boatman watches carefully, still waiting for our turn at the dock.
Southeast to the Lighthouse
Our first stop, once we are off the boat, is an outdoor restaurant with a view. We were ready for a fresh seafood lunch of local specialities. It is mid-May: weeks away from the height of tourist season, …
Southeast to the Lighthouse
… so the beach is quiet as we look southeast, over the neatly stacked and empty chairs, to the Faro de Tabarca, the island’s lighthouse.
Rugged Coast
In the other direction, we can see southwest to the fortified walls designed in the mid-1700s by military engineer Fernando Méndez Ras.
Cova del Llop Marí – Sea Lion Caves
With the crystal clear waters around the island, stunning volcanic rock and limestone cliffs, and a glorious Mediterranean climate, it is no surprise that Tabarca is popular with tourists. In summer, the villas in town are full.
Portal on the Mediterranean
Most of the residences on the islet are empty when we visit; in 2013, Tabarca had only 59 year-round inhabitants. Ten-times this number stay here in summer.
Cala del Llop Marí
As we walk around the island, we have views east, back across Sea Lion Cove, …
Lilies on the Cliff
… west across the Cala del Francés, …
La Cantera and the Old Fortifications
… and across the low-lying rocks of the neighbouring island to the mainland.
Platja de Birros
Sun-bakers take advantage of the beautiful weather.
Jesus on a White Wall
The light bounces off the white stucco walls of the quiet houses.
Light and Shadows and Murals
Painted murals add to the tidy charm of the orderly streets, while birds fill the blue sky over our heads with sound.
Wall Plaque
Doorway
Herring Gull
Nou Collonet
The streets are hot and quiet. You can tell how important tourism is by the number of restaurants nestled into every corner.
It was a unique and enjoyable – albeit quiet – place to wander and lunch.
Until next time,
Happy Rambles!
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It was a very nice day out cruising on the water and visiting points of interest on the Spanish coast line. Highly recommend it